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2 bbl on a 232 in a 69 Gladiator

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69gladiator View Drop Down
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    Posted: May/22/2016 at 4:04pm
I know that I posted on this a while ago but I cannot locate the responses. The machine shop that rebuilt the motor will mill the intake and set us up with a 2 bbl Holley. My concern was making up new linkage. If I recall, someone said that a accelerator pedal  from a Jeep YJ will work. We would appreciate any info that the forum can share on doing this transition

We are pressured into doing this because the old cable is frayed and hanging up in the sheathing, redlining the motor. The chances of finding a new cable are probably slim at best.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6768rogues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/22/2016 at 7:48pm
I would go to the junk yard and get a hanging pedal from a Chevy S10 pickup or Blazer. I have seen them on eBay for less than $20. Then pick up a Lokar cable from Jegs or Summit. I have used that pedal and cable more times than I can remember.
If you can, get the little nylon bushing that goes on the cable end at the pedal on the S10. It will fit the Lokar cable.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mixed up Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2016 at 12:27am
one other peddle that works good is peddles from older 79 -early 90 mustang or ford cars they have there own return spring and you can take the ball of the carb for that fitting if you don't have one they screw nicely to the fire wall
69 amx 290 auto
65 220 290 4spd
80 ford fairmont
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2016 at 6:21am
Almost any pedal from a more modern car will work. You just need one long enough. Too long you can deal with, too short is a problem, of course. Most have a square hole in the firewall that the cable snaps into. Drill a hole and use a file or tin snips to square it. Screw the pedal to the firewall where it works for you (place pedal BEFORE drilling hole!). You can get universal cables with threaded ends to go in a round hole also, of whatever length you want. You have a cable pedal already -- the end of a newer cable should fit it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6768rogues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2016 at 4:03pm
The reason I use the Lokar cable is because it uses round holes through the firewall and at the bracket by the carb. It is easy to install and easy to fabricate a bracket at the carb because of the round holes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2016 at 6:51pm
THREADED round ends with a pair of nuts so one nut on each side of a bracket, and long enough for some adjustment, I'll add... 

There are several universal throttle cables the use the same arrangement and are cheaper. Lokars start at $42 or so and go up.. and can go WAY up! The cheapest ones have a clamp that needs a 90 degree support, more like a control cable (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Universal-Throttle-Cable-48-Inch,1173.html), with a loop on one end and a stop with screw on the other. I wouldn't use one of those! Jegs has a cable that is similar to the Lokar except it has a black plastic covered housing instead of braided, and is half the price (http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/157005/10002/-1). Now that I'd use!

I've always had a junked vehicle with a cable handy when I needed one though. The square holes isn't hard to deal with, on one or both ends. You may need to adjust or make a bracket on the carb end that works with the cable in hand though.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69gladiator Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/25/2016 at 10:38am
I was looking at the old J-truck pedal set up and am wondering why I cant reuse it. Id have to round out the current square hole. Whatever I use appears to need some type of return. I found an old Jeep yj and that peddle will return provided that it can push off the floor. The S truck peddle didn't look like it had a return spring. I found one from a newer mustang and it didn't have a return
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6768rogues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/25/2016 at 6:02pm
I put a return spring at the carburetor. I like a light pedal pressure and have found that I can vary the spring to get the feel I like. Depending on a spring at the pedal will not guarantee that the carburetor responds, it can result in the cable or its sheath slacking because cables work in tension and not in compression. The spring at the carburetor pulls the cable back and raises the pedal.


Edited by 6768rogues - May/25/2016 at 6:05pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69gladiator Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2016 at 2:02pm
Any ideas where we should set the timing ? Or should we monkey with it at all ? We are running a Skip White HEI, which has been a pretty good upgrade. The carb the shop is selling us will have 56 jets in it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69gladiator Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/03/2016 at 7:20pm
Put the beast on today. The best we could do to keep it running was to hold the throttle halfway. No obvious vacuum leaks. Should we start playing with the timing ? This was my fear in doing this swap.
It seems that we have the linkage straightened out. I guess I have a carb phobia. Junior does appreciate this fear. I acquired this fear from 40 plus years of keeping wrecks on the road.
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