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232 Swap in

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RamblinMan63 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RamblinMan63 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 232 Swap in
    Posted: Oct/29/2016 at 11:25am
Hello,
If any might remember, I had took a trip in my "63 Classic wagon and the little 196 didnt make it. The engine was shaking bad and exhaust was coming out the oil filer tube like crazy. SO I'm thinking about swapping in a 232 I6. The guy I bought the wagon from has a 65 classic thats never gonna move again, that I could take the engine out of, or close to me on CL is a 232 and transmission for only $25 bucks. It looks like the motor mounts will line up. 
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Ken Doyle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken Doyle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/29/2016 at 12:32pm
Before you write off that 196, you may want to check for a stuck valve or stuck rings, both of which can usually be remedied without a tear down. 
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uncljohn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/29/2016 at 4:12pm
I really don't know if the swap can be a bolt in, I think there is clearance issues as the 232 is longer but it is one of those things that can be done I guess if you preserver and have a parts car. My opinion for what it is worth, I have always liked the looks of a 63 and consider it one of the best looking cars AMC ever put out and if I had a chance to pull off a 232 swap in one I would jump at the chance. Of course the end result has to be worth it. I also like the 232/258 engine and have a 232 on an engine stand with a 4bbl carburetor and a cam in it looking for a home.
70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration
76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power
80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit
74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam
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RamblinMan63 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RamblinMan63 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/29/2016 at 6:52pm
Dam, I guess I should have figured something like that wouldnt be so simple.
Maybe the poor little motor can be saved still.
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vinny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2016 at 9:25am
Save the 196 for a car with a short engine bay. The 232 is a much better engine for that car. There has been lots written here recently on the subject. Swapping the rad mounts to opposite sides or grabbing the rad from the 65 provides ample room.

I agree, 63 and 64 were among the nicer looking cars and a 63 wagon is a bit of a rarity.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2016 at 9:47am
You will need the bell housing from the 232 also. The starter changed position a bit. It's possible to use the 196 starter, but there are some clearance issues. I seem to recall someone using the 196 starter, but they had to do some grinding on the case and had some exhaust clearance issues. If you can get the bell from the 232 for your trans (the auto trans bells interchange) it will be easier.

The engine position changed a little between 64 and 65. Not a lot, you will just have to drill new mount holes in the perches on the crossmember if you swap the 65 CM into the 63. You can use rectangular tubing to make new bolt-in perches and leave the 196 CM in though. That's how I put a 4.0L in my 63 Classic. If you want to do that let me know and I'll give some details.

All in all it's not a hard swap. Can be done in a weekend if you do all the research and gather parts ahead of time...and have a known good running engine to swap in.

The 196 is adequate for that size car, but just. I drove mine for a bit with the 196. Great around town car, not so much a highway car. Would cruise at 65, but struggled to hold 65 up hills... especially with anything more than two adult passengers.  That said, as long as it's just a cruiser you should be fine.

Might want to check everything out and find out what happened to the 196. Run a compression check, and pull the valve cover. If it sat for a while and had old gas in it you could have a couple stuck/sticky valves, which allows pushrods to come out. Valves are hard to free up so they don't stick again without pulling the head and rebuilding, or at least disassembling and cleaning thoroughly. Another problem is the head bolts need to be retorqued every 10-15K miles or it will blow the head gasket. You don't know there is a problem until it starts smoking and running hot. By then the head is usually warped or cracked... usually both. A compression check will let you know if you have a bad gasket or head. Check for water in the oil and vice versa also. That indicates a bad gasket and could indicate a cracked head. If you pull the head have it checked at a machine shop for cracks first. Good heads are hard to find now. If the head is cracked I'd just proceed with the 232 swap.
Frank Swygert
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RamblinMan63 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RamblinMan63 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2016 at 10:51am
Thank you, there was no coolant in the oil BUT I recall the oil tasting a bit burnt.
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vinny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2016 at 12:21pm
Yes, 232 bell housing requires a 232 torque converter, which has a 1/2" larger diameter ring gear than the 196. If using the 196 bell and T/C there is a starter interference issue that can be overcome with a little rework. 
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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2016 at 5:08pm
Hah! I've never TASTED the oil... smelled it, yes, but not tasted! Oh well... 
Burnt oil can just be that it's been in there to long between changes, or the engine has been overheated. Could also be from friction due to a bad bearing though. If no knocking you should be okay. Pull the valve cover, compression check, and let us know what the compression is on all cylinders. Number from 1 in front to 6 in back.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/30/2016 at 9:04pm
Frank, have u missed out! Burnt oil is good mixed with Vodka and rates right in there with gasoline gin and orange juice. As to where number one is, I had a problem with that once, I replied "In Front" and it took 2 or 3 times before it dawned on the questionnaire that he expected to get an answer based on being a V8. As his clock had been cleaned the day before and he wanted revenge. He sold his Dodge fastback by the end of the week as being cleaned by an in-line 6 was more than he could take.
Yes in-deedy I have had a lot of fun with engines being two cylinders shy of a full basket. And this latest one in the shape of a V but with 215 cu in and 305HP is a bit of fun. Maybe as I get my garage cleaned, I might just find something to put my 232 in. Oh Well


Edited by uncljohn - Oct/30/2016 at 9:07pm
70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration
76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power
80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit
74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam
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