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287 Rebuild |
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gtoman_us 
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Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: E. Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 3869 |
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 Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 5:33am |
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pistons were balanced, rotating not.
No line bore my assumption is this is a low RPM cruiser.. Bores were not honed with a plate. Deck height was trued up. Exhaust manifolds trued. Harmonic balancer rebuilt by the Dampner Doctor. Forgot to mention new timing chain. |
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Moderator - Emeritus
Used to collect trophies, now I collect gas receipts and put on miles 1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon 1965 GTO 1931 Model A original survivor "Flat Roofs are Cool" |
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Buzzman72
AMC Addicted 
Joined: Sep/15/2009 Location: Southern IN Status: Offline Points: 2725 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 6:19am |
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The "arguments" on the Gen 1 vs. Gen 2/3 engines basically come down to this:
1. Gen 1 engines never pump the oil pan dry, presumably because their drainback situation is better. 2. Gen 2/3 engines have the better flowing heads, with Gen 3 the "winnah" there. 3. Parts availability for the Gen 1 can be a PITA. 4. Distributor position can affect whether the Gen 1 or the Gen 2/3 is best for your application. 5. Transmission choices for the Gen 2/3 are MUCH better; add in Novak/Advance adapters, and there is no contest. So which is superior? Depends on which YOU had the most problems with. I like the Gen 1 engines. But I also like the Gen 2/3 engines. My advice is to build the 287 and drive the car; it is what it is, and nothing more. Cheeze, I hate when the "kids" are arguing.
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Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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FSJunkie
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Joined: Jan/09/2011 Location: Flagstaff, AZ Status: Offline Points: 4742 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 5:12pm |
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I have never line bored, balanced, or decked a Gen-I AMC V8 because they didn't need it.
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1955 Packard
1966 Marlin 1972 Wagoneer 1973 Ambassador 1977 Hornet 1982 Concord D/L 1984 Eagle Limited |
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Rebel327
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Joined: Jan/26/2014 Location: Toledo Ohio Status: Offline Points: 358 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 5:27pm |
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Keeping a 287 seems like best option. Either finding a used one running (not likely) or rebuilding one. Yes they cost to rebuild but everything..everything is available. Several people here have good knowledge and some people just guess and really dont know. U will sort those out.
Please let me know if I can help. Good luck.
Edited by Rebel327 - Feb/18/2019 at 11:11am |
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a075923
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Joined: Feb/04/2018 Location: kansas Status: Offline Points: 139 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 5:52pm |
What method did you use to know the additional machine work wouldn't improve the operation of the engine? Thanks
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a075923
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Joined: Feb/04/2018 Location: kansas Status: Offline Points: 139 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 5:54pm |
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Likely to far for the OP, but a guy in Wichita, KS had advertised he had two 287's. Can't remember if the ad said they turned over or not. i think he was asking $200 for the pair. |
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FSJunkie
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Joined: Jan/09/2011 Location: Flagstaff, AZ Status: Offline Points: 4742 |
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Posted: Feb/16/2019 at 2:55am |
Generally I like to keep it simple on stock to mild rebuilds. If it is not broke and will not break any time soon, don't fix it. If the engine ran fine for 50 years, then odds are it doesn't need a whole lot of fancy machine work. Just correct the things that wore out or will soon wear out and keep going. Just as an example: if the engine ran fine for 50 years and the old bearings do not show any strange wear patterns, then you can safely assume that the main bearing bores in the block are straight enough for line boring to be an unnecessary waste of money. You could go ahead and do it anyway, and it wouldn't hurt anything so long as the machinist does at least as good a job as the factory (many don't), but what for? It might be needed on a high performance build, but not on this. The engine has already proven itself. Time-tested. Usually the new parts used in a stock rebuild weigh close enough to the original parts to not significantly alter the engine balance. Even regrinding the crank journals doesn't throw it off much. It's enough to measure on a machine, but probably not enough to feel while driving or to have a significant impact on engine service life. I have over-molested engines in the past. The obsession with making them perfect is sometimes what destroys them. Sometimes "good enough" is actually "best". Edited by FSJunkie - Feb/16/2019 at 3:20am |
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1955 Packard
1966 Marlin 1972 Wagoneer 1973 Ambassador 1977 Hornet 1982 Concord D/L 1984 Eagle Limited |
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Trader
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Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6884 |
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Posted: Feb/16/2019 at 7:00am |
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I don't know Gen1 engines but agree with FSJunkie on not going overboard on a mild rebuild.
Turning down crankshaft journals and adding undersize bearings adds or subtracts near nothing to balance, the weight is replaced by the heavier bearings apposed to the stationary journal in the exact same position. Most oversize pistons can be balance to the old pistons. Changing connecting rods is the biggest issue to engine balance, and unless damaged on close inspection, can be reused. If the mains are normal Gen1,2,3, just replace the bearings and polish the crankshaft if still within specification. If they do need to go undersize, they are at the center of the rotating assembly and do nothing to change balance. The only reason I mentioned the Chev parts is they are much cheaper and many more interchangeable parts. If some combination will fit, why not if you save $$$ and have a source for future parts. I wish I still had my Dad's piston knurler, for a low RPM engine knurled pistons lasted another 60,000+ miles with no issues. At 180,000 miles on an old Ford pickup he pulled the old knurled pistons out, honed out the cylinder taper and put in the next size up piston - never bored/balanced. It lasted to 300,000 miles before the transmission/body gave out. Build the 287. |
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Rebel327
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Joined: Jan/26/2014 Location: Toledo Ohio Status: Offline Points: 358 |
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Posted: Feb/16/2019 at 8:23am |
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My Hudson Jet 202 flat head got knurled pistons..cuz none available back in '83. Would not do it now because 287/327 parts are not hard to find. Rocker arms are the only part that is expensive, but I'm working on source to greatly reduce cost from current vendors. I chuckle when guys say no "performance" parts available. If it were easy...you would be on the Chebby forum. No offense to anyone. Cheers to the great info in previous posts on this Forum...the Search function is great.
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gtoman_us
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Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: E. Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 3869 |
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Posted: Feb/16/2019 at 9:16am |
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totally agree with FSJunkie.
My 327 had 100k miles. Even with a 70% plugged oil pick up screen from the plastic timing chain gear remnants that failed around 40k miles, the main and rod bearings were turned over.10. I did invest in a polish first, but one journal was a little loose for stock bearings. No need for an align bore in my case. Plus the 287/327 is one stout block and crank. I went with the cylinder bore because they were tapered. The .30 pistons I got from Kanter and about 40% less cost than Egge. Kanter told me the country of origin wa India. My machinist thought they were top quality and all within 1-2 grams each. The rods, it seems to me that they are over constructed. The net-net is if you feel the need build it your way to give you the assurances don't let us stop you. Cheer! |
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Moderator - Emeritus
Used to collect trophies, now I collect gas receipts and put on miles 1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon 1965 GTO 1931 Model A original survivor "Flat Roofs are Cool" |
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FSJunkie wrote: