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65 Rambler Classic 660 Cross Country |
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RebelRay
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Dec/14/2012 Location: St. Louis, Mo Status: Offline Points: 1504 |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Online Points: 19610 |
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The repair looks really good! Most just go in from the bottom instead of cutting the top off the cowl, but that's certainly a god way to do it. There is a write-up on the most recent cowl repair I made (6-7 months ago) in the body section. We should add yours to that thread as an alternate method. The 63-64 body just had a shelf that drained over, and the patch panel Peter Stathes makes does also. Don't know why the change for 65-66.
The fender gussets ("troughs" as many call them) look close enough to the original. Make sure you drill some drain holes in the floor. The original just had a single punched louver in the bottom near the firewall. If I find good gussets under a fender I drill 2-3 3/8" holes up through them starting about 1/3 of the way back for water to drain. Fine dust sifts u in there even if the rubber seals are in place. I don't replace the seals, just leave the gap open at top. More dust/water gets in, but with adequate drain holes it also gets out, and what doesn't will dry out, lessening the chances it will rust out again. It probably will eventually, if the rest of the car holds up long enough... |
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Frank Swygert
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RebelRay
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Dec/14/2012 Location: St. Louis, Mo Status: Offline Points: 1504 |
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Yeah, I thought about going from the bottom, but I hate welding up. sl*g is not something you want falling in your face! So I decided to cut the top. I also wanted to make sure the rest of the cowl was in good shape (the driver's side will need some work eventually). I will add the drain holes as suggested.
We only had a few hours on Friday evening to work. I wanted to get the top of the cowl at least tacked back in place. It's going to be a long arduous task to weld it all back up without warping the panels. So I'm going to have to go one tack at a time, changing locations between tacks to keep things cool. Before beginning welding, I sprayed a quick coat of red enamel paint just to give another layer of protection. |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Online Points: 19610 |
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As long as you can weld sheet metal it's not a bad solution. Going in from the bottom you can just rivet, screw, or even just use body adhesive -- depending on how much you have to cut out. I used paintable window caulk (good 40 year kind!) and riveted mine. Been in there since 2003, no leaks. Car was a daily driver until mid 2007, and was parked out in the open all the time. Didn't get a car port until 2009, now stays in my shop most of the time -- not for maintenance, but because I don't get to drive it much any more! Have to have my truck for business, so just drive the car weekends. Well, it is in there for work now... have to fix the rear axle! BENT the crossmember holding the Jag IRS in. Need to find the time to replace it... got the parts.
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Frank Swygert
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RebelRay
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Dec/14/2012 Location: St. Louis, Mo Status: Offline Points: 1504 |
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The wagon is heading in a new direction. After fiddling with the Borg Warner automatics, I've come the conclusion that it's not in line with where I want to be when this is all said and done. I'm a three pedal guy through and through. I also plan to drive this thing a LOT. Road trips, shows, cruises, you name it. So parts availability will be key.
So, the torque tube is heading out the door. My plan is to replace it with an AMC 4 link from a later large car, if that's viable. From what I've been told, the upper control arms mount to a removable cross member and the lower control arms mount to brackets welded to the "frame". I believe if I get the entire setup, I should be able to make it work in the wagon. I may have to modify things a bit, but I'm banking on the fact that AMC didn't change things drastically from year to year, so hopefully things will line up. We'll see!
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Online Points: 19610 |
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That will work. The 67+ cars are a little wider, so the upper link crossmember from one of them needs to be shortened about 1/2" on each end. Then weld in mounts, drill new mounting holes, and bolt in. Of course measure the donor car for proper location.
You might be better off to just use a universal four link kit from a rod shop. Of course if you have a donor car readily available you may as well use it. There are lots of ideas in the 56-66 rear axle swap sticky also. |
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Frank Swygert
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blackbetty
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/19/2017 Location: Galion, Ohio Status: Offline Points: 220 |
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What ever happened to your project? Looks like a good start.
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RebelRay
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Dec/14/2012 Location: St. Louis, Mo Status: Offline Points: 1504 |
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Time to clear out the cobwebs! This project is back on!
I just got back from a weekend trip up to Michigan to pick up some goodies for the wagon. I got a 3 speed manual torque tube transmission (came with a free 195.6!) and all of the things needed to do a manual transmission swap. I also picked up 5 wheels with nearly new tires. If the weather holds out, I might even have some progress in the coming weeks. Today was a high of 70 degrees, so I'm hopeful! |
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kalve
AMC Nut Joined: Nov/04/2012 Location: Charleston WV Status: Offline Points: 279 |
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Nice project sounds like it is going to be good when finished.
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1964 T bird Landau
2000 Mercedes Benz CLK 430 convertible 1970 AMC Rebel SST Wagon |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Online Points: 19610 |
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Check the date codes on those tires! If much over 10 years old I'd think twice before running them on the road.
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Frank Swygert
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