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67 232 Auto 3rd gear issue

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Brad2192 View Drop Down
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    Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 1:35pm
One cold morning a few weeks ago my Overdrive spontaneously stopped working. Daily driving at 40mph screaming along at an approximate 5k.. Before my dumbass hand-grenades this tranny what would cause this issue ? I have to manually shift from 1st to 2nd (from L/D1 to D2) as well, otherwise it will hard shift into 2nd and overdrive at areally high RPM.  II also have a  rear main seal that needs replacing, other than that the tranny does not seem to be losing fluid. Please Lord baby Jesus help me.

Edited by ramblinrev - Mar/22/2019 at 7:23pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 3:59pm
Originally posted by Brad2192 Brad2192 wrote:

One cold morning a few weeks ago my Overdrive spontaneously stopped working. Daily driving at 40mph screaming along at an approximate 5k.. Before my dumbass hand-grenades this tranny what would cause this issue ? I have to manually shift from 1st to 2nd (from L/D1 to D2) as well, otherwise it will hard shift into 2nd and overdrive at areally high RPM.  II also have a  rear main seal that needs replacing, other than that the tranny does not seem to be losing fluid. Please Lord baby Jesus help me.
This is an automatic?   Not a 3 speed nanual with OD?  If the trans is an Automatic. .    Have you checked the fluid?  Sounds like no3 rd gear..  Id be checking the modulator and the cable on the carburetor.    For a start... 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brad2192 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 4:46pm

I'm sorry yes there is no 3rd and it is an automatic. There also is no cable from the transmission whatsoever, only from the pedal, I did look everywhere. Would you happen to know what the modulator looks like ? If so is there some sort of adjustment that could be made?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 5:08pm
On the BW automatic, Ive not messed with them too much. I think it would be on the back side, I think the drivers side....it will have a hose on it. If no fluid comes out when you pull the hose off is ok. If fluid runs out.  Bad modulator. And make sure you are getting vaccum at the modulator.  Since you say no cable...that has an electric switch for kickdown..  ..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fluffy73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 5:55pm
Well, the good news is it's not your overdrive malfunctioning - you don't have one.
Your Transmission is a good old fashioned, American made three speed with your top gear being 1:1.
I am genetically incapable of being Politically Correct.
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george w View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 6:36pm
What vehicle is this ? Model and year please ?
If it's a 67 and up then your kickdown switch may be stuck in ( on ) . On 67 & 68 it's on the top of the throttle linkage under the hood next to the brake booster & master cylinder. If it's 69 and up then it's inside the car attached to the top of the gas pedal bracket. Two wires connect the switch. Unplug the wires and see if the problem persists. If it does then it could be a problem with the metal vacuum line that connects the back of the intake manifold down to the vacuum modulator at the rear of the transmission. There's a small rubber hose that connects this line to the modulator. The loss of intake vacuum at the modulator will raise the transmissions upshift points to the max. As the throttle is opened from idle the intake vacuum decreases. As the vacuum decreases at the modulator the transmission's upshift points increase. The greater the throttle opening the higher the upshift points.The kickdown switch detects wide open throttle and forces the transmission to shift down and stay in either first or second gear until either the maximum rpm upshift speeds are reached for either gear or the throttle is backed off from WOT.
Typically this upshift at WOT will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 5000 rpm. If the kickdown is stuck on and the rpms and road speed drop a little the transmission will downshift again and rather abruptly.

If the kickdown switch checks out them look at the metal vacuum line connection at the intake manifold and the connecting hose to the modulator. If these check out OK then you either have a bad modulator or the internal govener is sticking in the tranny.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cnagorka Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 7:57pm
Agree with what George W said. I had a '68 Ambo with a stuck kickdown switch and it was practically undriveable. Unplugged the switch and voila. The 343 was so powerful I didn't use the kickdown that often anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 9:39pm
aha good point on the switch!

yeah, the good news is that it's a dumb old Borg Warner M35 or something auto. they're the proverbial brick-s**t house. keep it adjusted and it will last a long time and simply wear as it gets towards the end of life. they don't generally explode (sad, that would at least be exciting).

yours probably has the throttle cable setup. earlier (62) V8's, at least, had the electric kickdown and vacuum modulator. george w's comments apply to that. if you do have a kickdown switch, definitely do what he suggests -- pull one wire off (insulate it afterwards. RTFM TSM or ask here.

if you have the cable type, the ONE THING that will kill those transmissions quickly is bad rod adjustment. it MUST be set according to the TSM. it's easy. the trans wears, and the little slidey parts in the linkage wear, every year or so is enough. RTFM or ask here. 

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 9:41pm
this thread should be in the transmission section... btw...
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/21/2019 at 6:12am
BWs with electric kick-down did not have the TV cable, they used a vacuum modulator. So it's either the vac modulator or the kick-down switch.

The switch is located on the engine along the rod between the firewall and carburetor. Easy to just unplug one of the leads (or both). One of the leads should have 12V to it when the key switch is on, so tape the end when you unplug it so it doesn't contact anything and short out. The other end goes down to the transmission and will be "dead". You can check the switch by unplugging the transmission side and turning the key switch on. If it has power on the transmission side without pressing the switch in the switch is stuck and should be replaced. It will be fine to drive without the switch connected, you will just have to pull the shift lever down to accelerate when passing or going up a steep hill. The switch is a simple NO (normally open) momentary switch, nothing special.
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