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After 25 yrs its out!

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tsanchez View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/08/2012 at 9:30am
I would run it with the grooves before using mine with craters LOL but like I said it is already at .035 I think.
 
 I am now suprised it still ran mid 11s like it was
 


Edited by tsanchez - Apr/08/2012 at 9:31am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx39068 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/08/2012 at 9:42am
Originally posted by tsanchez tsanchez wrote:

but like I said it is already at .035 I think.
 
 
I had a machine shop "knurl" a set of .025 pistons to get them from .025 to .030 without telling me beforehand after they mistakenly bored the block to .030 never thinking the pistons would be only .025.  Well when I fired the engine up it smoked like a mosquito fogger so I made them start all over and ordered .030 pistons and WASTED a perfectly good set of .025 forged pistons in the process.
 
So Tony why don't you just knurl them babies to .035  LOL  It'll work.  Yeah, that's the ticket!
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SKeown Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/08/2012 at 11:15am
 
 Here's a possible scenario: Hone the +.035 to .040 and get a set of Wiseco's flat tops, they are off the shelf and come with pins and rings. Then hard block the pitted block and bore it until it's good for use in the new motor. Yoy can sell the .030 pistons on eBay for half the price of the wiseco's. If you have the .035 block honed on a Sunnen machine with a deck plate it will come out straight and round.
 
 SKeown
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/08/2012 at 11:24am
If I am going to buy pistons and bore a block they will be the ones I need to build the big engine, not going to spend money for two engines. Gotta think about it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SKeown Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/08/2012 at 11:51am
 
 
Originally posted by tsanchez tsanchez wrote:

If I am going to buy pistons and bore a block they will be the ones I need to build the big engine, not going to spend money for two engines. Gotta think about it
 
 While you're thinking consider this. you're going to hone the one block and get pistons for it anyway. The Wiseco flat tops are $587 from Summit #PT117H45 @ 4.210 bore yielding 410 cubes and include rings. You can sell you're current pistons for $300 and were going to buy rings anyway. Based on that, you'll only be out around $300 more including the boring than just re-ringing. BTW, King bearings are availiable now.
 
 PS, Campbell Enterprises list that part number for $553 and they have coated skirts too. Wiseco's coating held up good for me. It may be at .045 over the pitted block can be used unless the pitting is extreem. http://www.wiseco.com/Catalogs/Automotive/CompleteCatalog.pdf About 35% down the page.
 
 
 
 SKeown
 
 


Edited by SKeown - Apr/08/2012 at 12:43pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/08/2012 at 3:49pm
Yeah that would work but my goal was to drive this car as it was when I first built it, not rebuilt using new stuff. If I change blocks Im not sure the cam will survive as the lifter bores may not be in exactly the same spot. Dilemnas LOL
 
 
Steve just sen me your engine for the trip Ill use my heads
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SKeown Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/08/2012 at 7:06pm
 
 Dilemas is what this hobby is all about, and for many it's the enticement. If you don't feel an additional .015 overbore would correct the bores, you could just clean it all up and reassemble as is for the cruise. My engine still had no blowby even with the rings molly coating missing.
 
 SKeown 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/08/2012 at 9:08pm
As bad as it looks, it still ran perfect, but.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/09/2012 at 11:10pm
Its up for grabs, tried a three stone hone for a bit,, cleaned up a bunch. May get by with just a .001 -2 hone and have a ..007 bore/piston clearance. will st LOLill have the ocasional divot but at least I can set the end gap at .020 and roll with it
 
 
OR build the new mill at 434-443ci what say you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AmcKidd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/10/2012 at 12:04am
for ME it would depend on IF i was gonna build the Bigger Mill anyway-  if it was in the plan to do the bigger engine, this just moves that plan forward at a sooner date-  if it was ME, i would hone it and run it-Ex- brother in law was broke and needed  something to make it move-(this was before i got it back) the 360 in my Gremlin was  totally rusted to the point it wouldnt move (Jeep sat in a creek bed 2 years with no hood)  after a lot of brake fluid/trans fluid/ etc it was freed up- then a new set of STD rings  in the VERY pitted cyls made it moveable - it has been in the car for at least 10 years this way- last trip to sacramento raceway almost killed it- burned almost as much oil as fuel- ET's were wayy off- normally a N/A 12:80 car, it was stuck in the bottom 13's
Oroville, Ca
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