AMC 20 Full Floater - Anyone still making these ki

I've been searching high and low to find a full floater conversion kit for the AMC 20, but I'm finding that the companies who used to do it don't anymore. Does anyone know of any companies that still work on the 20?

I'd like to keep the 20 because it's original to the car, but if it can't be built up to match a stronger setup then I'm going to have to look into a different rear end.

Weren't those full floating kits all for the Jeep 5 on 5.5" wheel patterns?

What Jeep are you working with? FSJ AMC 20s had larger tubes, larger bearings and one-piece axle shafts. Little Jeeps had the same basic 2-piece shaft and hub setup as cars, except for hub pilot diameter and wheel bolt pattern. Lots of one-piece axle shaft kits for Jeeps, as an option to a full-floater, depending on application.

What "stronger" setup are you considering? May be best to check one of the Jeep sites for common swaps to suit your application.

If it's for a car and wanting full floater for e.g. road race, you'd need to go the custom route to fit snouts to suit typical stock car floater hubs. Moser, and likely others, can make floater shafts to suit the AMC 29 spline, but likely better off just getting a 9" for serious track use.

Hope this helps,RD

I think at least one of Mark Donohue's rear axles was a full floater,
 but I'm pretty sure that was to eliminate the binding from the camber he designed in to it.

The toughest part would probably be getting small 5 on 4.5" pattern full floating hubs,
 but I think regular semi-floating 1-piece shafts would hold up to the horsepower levels you're talking about.
 It's the housing/tubes & 8 lonely ring gear bolts might not like it if sticky tires and hard launches are part of the deal.

"keyways" don't do squat on the AMC axles. It's an old wive's tale.
The strength is in the splines and the correct installation process and torque applied to the nut.
Set the axle depth correctly in the hub, torque it and it will handle a heck of a lot. 
The biggest killer on them is people who don't know what they are doing with 'em, people taking shortcuts, or getting a tire really spinning hard and then SMACK, WHAM, hitting dry rough pavement and the tire grips and you break things. 
They'll handle more HP than a mild 360 - you'd have to build a 360 pretty strong to really be concerned IF the axle is done correctly.

But cutting keyways in the hub and axle and installing a bigger key - what a joke. I've seen it done and if those splines let loose - you'll cut any key in half really fast. 
The original key as used by AMC was to LOCATE the hub on the axle once they were paired up so when a hub was removed it could be put back on the same axle in the exact same orientation and grip like new again. The key was ONLY for locating a used hub back onto it's mating used axle and for no other reason at all, period.

Don't over-think this thing.......