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Anyone using K6122 upper ball joints?

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304-dude View Drop Down
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    Posted: Aug/13/2017 at 11:17am
Since I found by complete accident, someone has done a Mustang II install without need of a spacer. They ran a few challenges, but used a 71 and earlier GM ball joint, to compensate for the shorter by 0.72" height on the spindle mounting arms.

But also can be used with stock spindles to raise the roll pivot.

I mistakenly reamed the wrong end on one of my Mustang II spindles, and will require a 10 degree ball joint to mount properly, without need of repair or a sleeve.

My soon to be fix is to run a 71 on up GM truck upper ball joint. It's part number is K6122. By late 71 GM switched from 7 degree to 10 degree ball joints. AMC used 10 on the bottom and 7 on top. So 10 degree being a larger diameter will be stout without need for racing ball joints.

The good thing is I don't need to use spacers anymore. As both upper and lower control arms will be in proper distances like stock with the GM ball joint.

Just wondering if anyone has thought about changing up bolt on ball joints with their stock suspensions?
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/13/2017 at 12:03pm
Oh here is a link to what I found at the last page... you will need to go to page 1 to catch all the details of mods and what not. Too bad for me he did the thread long after I got my Mustang II spindles setup. It would have saved me money when obtaining Moog AMC upper ball joints.

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/1982-amc-sprit-challenge-build/78512/page6/
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/14/2017 at 6:14am
I looked around at ball joint options, and will check each of these ball joints I listed below, to see which one serves best. I gather pin length, boot design, and build quality will be the differences.

Many manufacturers taper smaller near the ball, which makes a weak area that most don't notice.

TRW K6122

TRW K6292

Car Quest K6122

Car Quest K6292

NAPA #2601119

McQuay-Norris FA1616E

McQuay-Norris FA681E

Yes, I removed MOOG and AC Delco from my list... noticed in the link at the bottom, the reasons why some manufacturers taper the pin. On the track, we don't want tapered pivot pins. Sometimes you have to notice quality named brands may have features that may go against ones expectations about heavy duty under extremes.

http://tacoma-upper-control-arms.com/jba_vs_uniball

Edited by 304-dude - Sep/09/2017 at 4:52pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Brad View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/15/2017 at 5:09pm
On various other projects I've used Howe ball joints. Dodge style screw in, the screw in ball joint sleeves are common from various sources. Use a tailpipe/muffler expander when welding to prevent warping. Welding in these sleeves also allows you to improve caster and camber settings by putting the ball joint where you want it.
Howe offers other styles of ball joints also. They move like bearings as compared to stock replacement stuff. They are rebuild able and offer various pin heights to get the geometry you want. 

http://howeracing.com/index.php/store/suspension/howe-precision-ball-joints.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 343sharpstick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/15/2017 at 8:16pm
Those Howe Racing ball joints look very similar to the QA1 units which I'm using.
Both also offer various length studs for adjusting camber gain as well.

I also opted for the mopar style screw-in units.
Having done several upper control arms now, I can see why so many fabricators use these.
Just thought of this, I think a great solution for an upgrade to a later style AMC control arm would be to weld a ball joint sleeve into the end of a stock upper control arm.



Edited by 343sharpstick - Aug/15/2017 at 9:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/15/2017 at 8:51pm
Originally posted by 343sharpstick 343sharpstick wrote:

Those Howe Racing ball joints look very similar to the QA1 units which I'm using.
Both also offer various length studs for adjusting camber gain as well.

I also opted for the mopar style screw-in units.
Having done several control upper control arms now, I can see why so many fabricators use these.
Just thought of this, I think a great solution for an upgrade to a later style AMC control arm would be to weld a ball joint sleeve into the end of a stock upper control arm.


Yes QA1 is the same idea, Howe came out with them first so as a creature of habit  I stick with what I know, LOL   I usually use them in both upper and lower control arms. Back in the day they were also used for strut rods instead of rubber bushings. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/16/2017 at 6:40am
Hey guys, yep I noticed them on Speedway and other performance shops. I admit them screw In ball joints are the way to go for track use. So much options one can't deny with using them.

Would go that route but... I had checked that for all intents and purposes, the ball joint I had posted should work for my needs, without much added cost.

Maybe I should have posted this in the forum's suspension section. As I have a feeling most track guys rarely use OEM ball joints and rubber bushings.

Thanks!
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/08/2017 at 9:53am
I figured that to end my thread I should post how the K6122 ball joint fits.





The key to fitting is to enlarge the center hole out by 1/16".

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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343sharpstick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 343sharpstick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/08/2017 at 10:54am
Nice! That may be a good option for a more commonly available ball-joint on my IMSA Gremlin when I get to working on that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/08/2017 at 11:20am
Originally posted by 343sharpstick 343sharpstick wrote:

Nice! That may be a good option for a more commonly available ball-joint on my IMSA Gremlin when I get to working on that.


Oh definitely. AMC ball joints are loose compared to most all other types. These truck ball joints är bigger in every way. You do need to use a 10 degree reamer to enlarge the upper knuckle of the steering upright. It will place the upright about 1" further down, so lifting the front will happen. You can use a C5 ball joint which does not change the upright position.

Though AMC upper arms require some geometry change to shift it's upward swing to keep camber in check. Either do the Shelby Mustang drop, by cutting an welding the mounting holes on the suspension hump, or place the spindle upright further down with the truck ball joints. Anything stock in placement makes camber difficult to manage.

If you don't want to mess with reaming a 10 degree taper, you can use a 68 to early 71 GM truck ball joint.

I am forced to use the K6122 ball joint because I am using Mustang II forged spindles and need clearance between per knuckle and UCA. The Mustang II spindles require 10 degree ream on lower knuckle end, upper is the same for AMC stock upper ball joint.

So far I am liking it, and it fits into my mods quite well for strong and durable.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
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