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Bone stock 360 potential?

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1982AMCConcord View Drop Down
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    Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 9:12am
This is something that I have been wondering about for a while. What is the power potential of a stock low compression 360?

I have often read here that some guys have taken a bone stock low compression 360, installed the right type of camshaft for a lower compression engine, with a good intake/carb and made some really good power. 

What strategic combination of parts can wake a mostly tame 360 but not be so drastic to risk the longevity of the stock cast pistons an OEM style engine would come with? Ultimately... can someone take a bone stock rebuilt long block, swap in a good camshaft, use a good intake/carb combo and make something a little surprising?

Put it this way... I'd be interested in hearing some stories about low buck builds that yielded better than expected results guys. Thank you very much. (Picture is for eye candy only!) 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 9:56am
I got excellent results with my stock 73 304.

Changed from single exhaust to dual, and replaced the 2bbl intake and carb with an aftermarket 4bbl spread bore and 650 cfm carb to match.

Stock cam, but I guess a 360 would do well with an RV cam and similar setup, for great city economy and added performance combined.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 73Gremlin401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 10:10am
John, this is essentially what I've done with the 360 in my Matador wagon.  I'm using an 88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 360, which I bought out of a junkyard for $250.  It was already bored .030, which was a nice bonus, but uses stock type low-comp pistons. I'm using a mild RV cam for torque, and Edelbrock torker intake, stock free flow exhaust manifolds on both sides, true roller chain and gears, and a FiTech 400hp throttle body fuel injection setup (that is being installed this spring - right now it has a motorcraft 4100 on it).  I'm even using the stock 1977 Prestolite distributor out of the original motor, with a fresh control module and new vacuum advance unit.   While it's no high RPM screamer, it has gobs of low-end torque, idles smoothly, and moves the 4100# car quite nicely down the road.  For exhaust, I'm running 2.25" duals, with dual high flow (monolith type) catalysts, and an H pipe just past the transmission for a really nice smooth tone, along with turbo mufflers.
The FiTech setup, once I get it installed should wake it up even more. Best part of using the 88 motor, is that I got the 88 flexplate with it, so I was able to use the MoPar gear reduction starter, and the flex plate bolted right up to the Chrysler torque converter. Sounds very modern when starting, and turns over a bit quicker.



Edited by 73Gremlin401 - Feb/15/2019 at 10:13am
73 Gremlin 401/5-spd.
77 Matador Wagon 360/727.
81 Jeep J10 LWB 360/4-spd
83 Concord DL 4-dr 258/auto

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1982AMCConcord Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 10:38am
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

I got excellent results with my stock 73 304.

Changed from single exhaust to dual, and replaced the 2bbl intake and carb with an aftermarket 4bbl spread bore and 650 cfm carb to match.

Stock cam, but I guess a 360 would do well with an RV cam and similar setup, for great city economy and added performance combined.

Thanks Dude!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1982AMCConcord Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 10:55am
Originally posted by 73Gremlin401 73Gremlin401 wrote:

John, this is essentially what I've done with the 360 in my Matador wagon.  I'm using an 88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 360, which I bought out of a junkyard for $250.  It was already bored .030, which was a nice bonus, but uses stock type low-comp pistons. I'm using a mild RV cam for torque, and Edelbrock torker intake, stock free flow exhaust manifolds on both sides, true roller chain and gears, and a FiTech 400hp throttle body fuel injection setup (that is being installed this spring - right now it has a motorcraft 4100 on it).  I'm even using the stock 1977 Prestolite distributor out of the original motor, with a fresh control module and new vacuum advance unit.   While it's no high RPM screamer, it has gobs of low-end torque, idles smoothly, and moves the 4100# car quite nicely down the road.  For exhaust, I'm running 2.25" duals, with dual high flow (monolith type) catalysts, and an H pipe just past the transmission for a really nice smooth tone, along with turbo mufflers.
The FiTech setup, once I get it installed should wake it up even more. Best part of using the 88 motor, is that I got the 88 flexplate with it, so I was able to use the MoPar gear reduction starter, and the flex plate bolted right up to the Chrysler torque converter. Sounds very modern when starting, and turns over a bit quicker.


Thanks Kurt!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Ken_Parkman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 11:39am
The basic engine has tremendous potential. Cam, intake/carb, headers and there are giant gains available. The more power the more concern for durability, but street use for the occasional blast it's pretty amazing what a properly put together cast piston short block can withstand.
 
Mopar actually did a series of dyno tests with bolt on parts on a stock 360 way back when, and the results were eye openingly good. To long ago to remember, but it was very impressive; I think the Mopar engineers were shocked. That part is not so surprising as there previous experience was a SBD, and they finally got to play with a good engine. I do have a copy of that test article somewhere in my filing system, will try to find.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 12:19pm
Originally posted by 73Gremlin401 73Gremlin401 wrote:

John, this is essentially what I've done with the 360 in my Matador wagon.  I'm using an 88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 360, which I bought out of a junkyard for $250.  It was already bored .030, which was a nice bonus, but uses stock type low-comp pistons. I'm using a mild RV cam for torque, and Edelbrock torker intake, stock free flow exhaust manifolds on both sides, true roller chain and gears, and a FiTech 400hp throttle body fuel injection setup (that is being installed this spring - right now it has a motorcraft 4100 on it).  I'm even using the stock 1977 Prestolite distributor out of the original motor, with a fresh control module and new vacuum advance unit.   While it's no high RPM screamer, it has gobs of low-end torque, idles smoothly, and moves the 4100# car quite nicely down the road.  For exhaust, I'm running 2.25" duals, with dual high flow (monolith type) catalysts, and an H pipe just past the transmission for a really nice smooth tone, along with turbo mufflers.
The FiTech setup, once I get it installed should wake it up even more. Best part of using the 88 motor, is that I got the 88 flexplate with it, so I was able to use the MoPar gear reduction starter, and the flex plate bolted right up to the Chrysler torque converter. Sounds very modern when starting, and turns over a bit quicker.
I wonder how that engine would like an intake that matches the cam RPM range better than that Torker?
IIRC the Torker range is 3000 - 7500 RPM thinking the cam is idle to maybe 4000 RPM
I would think a Performer or Performer RPM would be a better match to the cam.
 
Now the question is a hard one to answer not knowing what it will be used for.
I had a 75 304 and all I did was run a Holley 2300 v2 carb on the stock intake, stock exh. manifolds to duel pipes & mufflers and the Prestolite ING system. Just the carb swap woke the motor up.
Add a shift kit and the 2.89 rear gear in the Gremlin was good for 16's all day long. I did not want to change the gear as I was building a drag car.
 
Now the drag car (70 Javelin gutted) ran a stock 73 360 / TH400 from a Jeep with a Comp 280H cam kit, Torker intake, 650 DP Holley, 1 7/8" hooker supper comp headers, 4000 stall converter (bought for a different motor) and a 4.56 rear gear with slicks. Even with all that mismatch I got a high 12 out of it but mid 13's all day long.
 
Again with parts matched to work together they would have done better at the track but the Gremlin was a blast on the street.
Dave ----
TSM = Technical Service Manual

75 Gremlin X v8 for sale
70 Javelin 360/auto drag car
70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote SC397 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 12:58pm
This combo with headers, 280H cam, Torker, and a 750 Holley would be really fun.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 1:09pm
Originally posted by SC397 SC397 wrote:

This combo with headers, 280H cam, Torker, and a 750 Holley would be really fun.


The only thing missing is stronger springs for anything bigger than a RV cam. Even with a stock cam the spring pressure really limits how well the RPM range is utiltized. Plus its a safety thing, i dont trust stock valve springs on RPMs above 4700. Even if bumping the RPMs from low to high. The keepers have a good chance of jumping out. Been there and was lucky not to damage the piston.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
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Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote SC397 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 1:12pm
Just buy the complete cam kit and you have the right springs and everything.
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