Can't cool my 360

I can't tell from the pics but you might want to seal the front of the rad to core support or grille area so that the incoming air from the grille goes through the rad and not around it on the top, bottom or sides? 

Edited by JD - Jul/25/2010 at 6:41pm

I thought he said he is keeping PSI in the system and new caps with no change. If not he would be in big trouble when it gets over 212*

Could the flow be too much and putting air in the water? Do you see a lot of bubbles in the water?

Dave ----

Originally posted by FuzzFace2 Originally posted by 73hornut Your stat may be too low of temp. Try running a 195. Say what?? Please tell us how a lower opening stat could cause the over heating? Now if every thing is working as it should read not over heating and you run a 100* (opening) stat  it should not go over 100* how is this going to make it over heat?   I was told way back when, late 70's in trade school, that not runnig a stat could cause over heating. The reason was the water would flow too fast thru motor to pick up the heat or lose it in the radiator. Is this true I could not tell you as I have always used a stat. Dave ----

A 195 will stay closed longer, giving the water in the rad more time to cool then a 160 will. Once the water temp in the rad and engine pass 160, the thermostat will not close, meaning the water in the rad has less time to cool. So a low thermostat will just stay open, and will get hotter and hotter. The water in the rad has to have time to cool down then circulate.

The problem I have with the clutch fan and radiator set up is that this model Jeep never came from the factory with a V8 so the motor and radiator don't line up. The stock clutch fan lines up at the bottom of the radiator and make it difficult to get a shroud and factory fan to work. I had removed the winch when the weather began to warm up because I though that may have been my problem at first but it did not change the temperature what so ever.  I have run with winches that blocked much more grill than the one I have now in other Jeeps and not had any problems. I run a Robert Shaw thermostat. I removed it last weekend because I was trying to prolong the time it took to reach 230 so that I could make it to work without it getting too hot. I honestly believe the cooling system is more than adequate to cool the engine. I purchased this radiator and fan from a company call Novak Conversions in Utah. They specialize in this type of conversion and have been doing it since 1967. When I was driving to work today It was very hot outside 100+. I left my house and drove through the country at about 45 mph and in after about 20 minutes from the time I starting the engine the temp was 230. When I reached town I pulled off on a side street and placed the transmission in 1st and drove at about 2000 rpms which is the same rpm the engine runs at 60 mph just to see if maybe airflow was a problem at speed. I was travelling about 15 mph and the whole time the rpms were at 2000 the temperature was rising to 240 instead of dropping. The higher the RPM or load the on the engine the higher the temp goes. I placed the transmission in drive and the rpms dropped back below 1500. I continued to work and the temp dropped back to 220. There is a tremendous amount of airflow through the radiator if you place your hand behind the radiator after the engine warms up the air is extremely hot so I know the system is removing a adequate amount of heat for a stock engine.  I am sure beyond a doubt the radiator and fan work sufficiently.

Flow washers would be erratic on the street where you have variable btu output (speed/load). A thermostat will throttle by demand.
Thermostats over the last 30+ years are designed to fail in the open position.