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Can't cool my 360

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Fweaky View Drop Down
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  Quote Fweaky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Can't cool my 360
    Posted: Jul/23/2010 at 4:02am

Yea Bob, I think I will just continue to drive it around town and to work. I worked my butt off all spring to get the heat problem solved so I could drive it to the Outter Banks in NC. It's been so hot here this summer with very few days below 95 degrees that I haven't been able to see any benifits from changes i've made. It may be running cooler than last summer and I just can't tell yet. My wife has a 2009 Jeep Unlimited that I can drive down to the beach but its just not as fun as driving old Jeep.

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  Quote Fweaky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2010 at 4:22am
I am running an HEI distributor and I did buy some springs and weights and played around with the advance to see if changing the total advance would help but it didn't. I even checked to make sure the distributor shaft didn't have any vertical play that would be messing up the advance. I would think that even though the distributor was sold as a AMC replacement and is aftermarket it should be pretty close to the set up I would need for a motor that seems to run and idle like it is stock but I may be wrong. I am just a shade tree mechanic so I didn't get too technical when it came to tweaking the distributor set up and when the changes I made made no difference I set it back to the original set up.
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  Quote poormansMACHINE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2010 at 5:25am
Originally posted by greaser

Dont' know much about the later motors but are you using V belts or a serpentine system?
Serpentines usually require a reversed water pump..

 

AMC V-8s were never offered with a serp so only 1 impeller direction was used.
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  Quote Freecat1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2010 at 7:20am
Are you running a automatic trans or manual?
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  Quote xtm10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2010 at 10:53am

Hey, have you looked into Evans NPG waterless super coolant ? this stuff claims to raise the boiling point to 375 deg. and freezing to -40 deg. It's a little pricey but the website says it's lifetime, so it will never need to be changed . I know you already spent a bunch of money, but  if your engine is going to be running at 230 deg. anyway. With this stuff it would run at 230 with out a problem. Sounds like it might be worth a look.

 
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  Quote 1750mopar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2010 at 11:10am
Years ago my sister had a 74 Matador with a 304. She had the same problems. Had it to several mechanics and replaced just about everything.She brouught it to me to see if I could figure it out.Finally I decided to Knock out the 2 rear freeze plugs to flush engine out . One on each side. I took out at least a gallon of sand. Both rear cylinders were blocked completely. Not knowing if your engine is factory or rebuilt you might want to check. She ran the car with the air to Florida the following week and many more years after with no problems. Ray
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  Quote Fweaky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2010 at 12:01pm
Thanks folks for all the replies. I think there may be a few things that I can try that will help. As Kevin stated more advance sooner sounds like it may provide some improvement. The freeze plugs are begining to weep as well so I can check to see if another flush may help. I'm not sure I want to raise the boiling point to 375 as I don't have a carpet on the floor and I have to hang my feet out the door now to keep from cooking my corns!
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  Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2010 at 12:11pm
Take a picture of the fan/rad setup and post it here so we can see.


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  Quote slownugly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2010 at 12:20pm
what radiator are you using? i had a problem with a 406 sbc. they are notorious for heating issues because the cylinders are syamised. anyhow i started with a big thick griffin aluminum radiator. tried 3 electric cooling fans, electric with mechaical flex fan. nothing kept it cool at any speed or rpm. it would go up to 230 in the wintertime while driving. i bought an 87 corvette radiator. the thing was so thin i had my doubts but i put it on. i started with a regular 4 blade fan from a 64 nova. the thing cooled like you would not believe. driving in 90 degree heat stayed at 160. it would creep up in traffic but that could have been solved with an electric fan. moral is sometimes a thinner core radiator and a good flowing mechanical fan will suck the heat right out of the radiator
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  Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2010 at 1:28pm
What ignition system? If it's a Duraspark you might want to try a new spark box. Look at the underside of that one first -- any signs of the potting material melting at all change it! You might want to try the GM HEI ignition module hack (http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/ignition-articles/492810-tricky-trick-hei-module-inside-duraspark-case.html). The GM module seems to be a lot more reliable/durable than the Ford unit -- which hasn't been produced BY Ford for a number of years now. The aftermarket boxes seem to be a problem.  A bad ignition box can cause overheating.

You know, on hot ambient temp days 230 isn't overheating or running too hot. As long as you have a good cooling system and it's not boiling over you're fine even at 230 -- as long as it level off at that temp and doesn't rise much/any more. Around 250 you're going to boil over even with a 17 pound cap. As long as it's not boiling over though...
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