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eagle cold wx run

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    Posted: Dec/28/2017 at 10:43pm
I have a 1988 eagle 4.2 ltr engine when the engine is running and still has not reached normal temperature stops running ,start it up again and does the same thing , now it only does it in gear ,at an cold idle is ok ,once it warms up everything is normal ,could i have a bad vacuum switch bad or computer ?by the way all hoses emissions are still factory ,new,carb, dist cap,rotor plugs, and most vac switches.
1968 AMX 401/727
1984 Eagle 4.0 org owner
1988 Eagle (time machine)
1980 Jeep J10 (under restoration)                 Carolina AMC (Senior Member)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pacerman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/29/2017 at 8:04am
Make sure your Choke is adjusted properly. It could be opening too soon. Also, if your car has the little hotplate in the intake manifold under the carburetor, make sure that is getting power when it needs it (cold engine).
Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ditdit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/29/2017 at 6:22pm
choke is working ok but I forgot about the intake heater ,i will check it out  thanks  jim
1968 AMX 401/727
1984 Eagle 4.0 org owner
1988 Eagle (time machine)
1980 Jeep J10 (under restoration)                 Carolina AMC (Senior Member)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaemonForce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/30/2017 at 10:25am
Mine used to behave this way and I'm glad this is no longer around anymore for me to fight. There's always a bad vacuum switch or leak somewhere. I was in a habit of cracking the throttle open about 5% when running the starter. I'm told the fix is to press the throttle all the way in once to engage the choke. So far I've only had to do that to Ford pickups.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/02/2018 at 9:50am
You might want to replace ALL the vacuum lines if they have been under the hood since 1988. The hoses get hard and don't seal on the various nipples very well, causing minute leaks that are hard to find, and usually result in odd running. One of the CTO valves could be stuck in position also. They screw into the block and will have three or more vacuum lines. There purpose is to switch vacuum once the engine is warm, they extend into the water jacket. When cold vacuum is routed one way, when warm another. They can stick in either position.

I hate to say it, but it's a good idea to replace ALL the controls you can get replacements for. Face it -- they are 30 years old now -- they have exceeded their life expectancy. Not a "bad design" or "poor engineering" on AMCs part...
Frank Swygert
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