Early AMX / Javelin Hydraulic Clutch Setup

Details in this thread on how I fit the master to a '74 Javelin for a T56 using a concentric slave cylinder (hydraulic release bearing).
http://theamcforum.com/forum/6-speed-manual-transmissions_topic48121.html

Modern Driveline and maybe some others offer a linkage arrangement to offset the master lower for an easier install. Looks like a neat solution to get proper pedal ratio and avoid clearance problems with the brake booster.
http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/images/iahc_40003.jpg
http://moderndriveline.com/catalog/hydraulics.htm

Hope this helps, RD.

Hi Chris,

If you check further down in the 6 speed thread, I listed the parts and details on the Wilwood master cylinder. They offer the same one in 5/8" bore - 1 1/8" bore, so lots of options to size to suit your slave. I did modify the master mounting flange & booster bracket to fit. The 90 degree fitting in the end just clears the booster.
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList.aspx?group=Compact Remote Flange Mt Master Cyl-1/8 NPT Outlet

I see they now offer a banjo-bolt version, so should give more clearance than the 90 degree fitting?
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList.aspx?group=Compact Remote Flange Mt Master Cyl-Banjo Outlet

Distance to the pedal pivot will depend on master/slave bore ratio, pedal length, how much slave travel is required for full clutch release and how light or heavy you want the pedal.

If using a Jeep slave, just match the bore of the master to the Jeep master and try to duplicate the same pedal ratio. Go smaller bore if further from pivot and bigger bore if closer. Just make sure if you go smaller bore there's enough stroke to get the volume needed for full slave release.

The linkage arrangement seems like a nicer setup and wouldn't be too hard to make something similar. Still be less play then in a normal mechanical clutch linkage.

My Javelin is in storage for winter, but I'll see if I can get a picture showing the connection at the pedal ... but just made a heavy flat plate and bolted to the pedal, a spherical rod end and threaded coupling to the master pushrod. Car was an auto and using pedals I scavenged from a Spirit, so not quite correct fit for the Javelin.

To keep the pushrod straight and get the geometry right, made a thin spacer plate for the master and used a grinder to taper it on an angle so the master is angled slightly upwards toward the pedal. The rod end pivot is then offset from the pedal toward the driver to keep the pushrod aligned to the master.

Wilwood also offers side-mount masters, so could make a bracket and mount on an angle instead of using a flange mount.

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-12385

Hope this helps, RD

I just got it going at the end of the season and parked for winter before broken in, so haven't run it too hard. Still getting a feel for the shifting and the clutch to get a good rhythm as it's been 30 years since I've driven a stick.

Shifting is a bit notchy, but improves with each drive. May shim the side detent button a bit as many say it helps. The gear spread is nice, but wants more rear gear to better match my cam ... or less cam to better match the gear (currently 3.15, planning on 3.73 or 4.10 ... or a smaller cam).

Overall much more fun than the slush box that was in it, but will give a better report next year.

How's your Viper Spec T56 been?

Thanks,RD.

I had an '80 Spirit with factory hydraulic clutch. It used a master w/ remote reservoir on the firewall connected by a tube and an external slave mounted on the bell. Maybe this master / slave combo would work?

My 74 Javelin and 73 Hornet both used a brake booster mounted horizontally with a linkage arrangement to the brake pedal, so similar idea as the linkage arrangement for the offset clutch master. This would likely give the most options for different masters. The later Spirit and Concord mounted the booster angled up with the pushrod direct to pedal. I fit one to my Hornet when the booster went bad ... but, sorry, don't remember if I changed brake pedal or drilled a new hole, but the bracket bolted up to the firewall fine. Not sure if the angled booster gives more clearance for the clutch master?

Below are a couple photos showing the inside where the master is mounted (boot removed to show pushrod is straight into the master). I made a 3/8" thick bracket with a hole that fits snug to the pedal pivot tube and bolted to the side of the pedal to allow easy geometry changes by fitting a different bracket. A heim is bolted to the bracket with a threaded coupling to the pushrod and a jam nut.   Also the photos showing the master and remote reservoir from the other thread.

Hope this helps, RD.

Here's why it's just too low. You can see how high up the carpet goes on the left side of this pic in relation to the knockout for the clutch rod. The pivot for the 4-bar linkage would have to be below that yet, which is just to dang far down IMO.

You can also see from this pic that there's no way to position the clutch MC higher, as there are brackets and such in the way as you travel up the firewall.

I like using the original clutch rod hole and mounting bolt holes though.



Edited by Greyhounds_AMX - Mar/12/2015 at 5:36pm