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4.0 Head on a 232 |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19611 |
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There should be no problems using new lifters on a used cam, but you can not put a new cam in and use the old lifters. The lifters "seat in" with the cam, not the other way around. A used cam would have to be worn very bad not to turn new lifters. I've done it many times on stock refurbished engines, and I've seen it done many times with performance engines and used cams. If you couldn't use new lifters on a used cam, there would be no market for used cams at all -- they'd be junk!
One more thing -- even when using original lifters and cam, if the lifters and/or cam comes out, the lifters must be put back in the exact way they came out or the cam will likely wipe a lobe in a short time. As I said, the lifters "seat" or "wear in" to the cam, so the lifter must be put back on its matching cam lobe or new lifters used. Lifters can be surfaced and reused -- once they are surfaced they are "like new". For the most part lifters are cheaper than the machine work, so that info is only useful in cases where lifters are hard to find or no longer available... such as in the old 196 engine family. Edited by farna - Aug/31/2009 at 5:17pm |
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Frank Swygert
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poormansMACHINE
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jun/28/2007 Location: Shoemaker-Levy9 Status: Offline Points: 12302 |
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Both the lifter and the lobe lose something until seated (if it happens). |
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forest
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/14/2008 Status: Offline Points: 2114 |
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resurfacing lifters is fine if the cam is reground as well. I have seen new lifters eat a cam with my own eyes. I will never do it and will not recommend it whatsoever. New cam, new lifters at all times. Some may do it and get away with it, but my personal preference is not to. Not too start a $hitfit either lol. I just wont do it.
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setting guys out by car lengths....
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1968AMC770Wagon
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2009 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 1137 |
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I'm not planning on it, i figure in the whole scheme of things 300.00 isnt that big of a deal for a new cam.
I just need to find the time and the resources. I can only cut, bale, and stack hay in the summer so now that hay season is over so are my paychecks. But time is the biggest problem. I gotta get one car together and out of the garage so I can get a new one in and take it apart. And all this before i can drive in december.
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1968AMC770Wagon
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2009 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 1137 |
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I'm going to the macgine shop to get an estimate on the headwork on the 4.0 and was wondering what i should tell him i want done. I will have the water jackets filled at the shop. I was wondering what to do as far as plaining and bore. I dont want anything too radical but I want some added performance.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19611 |
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As far as the head goes, all they need to do is fill the triangular ports on the right side then plane it smooth. You will get a little boost in performance from the better flowing head, but it's going to be up in the higher rpm range, you won't be able to tell at take off. They can take about 0.020" off for a slight boost in compression, but I wouldn't take any more than that. If you're pretty sure that you're just going to keep it on the 232 it's not a problem. If you stick it on a stroker later (4.0L block w/258 crank and rods) it could be. Compression is raised by nearly a point due to the longer stroke. Then you'll have problems with the head giving a bit more compression too. The computers don't like more than 10:1 compression.
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Frank Swygert
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1968AMC770Wagon
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2009 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 1137 |
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My plan is definately to just keep it on the 232. I definately do want the added compression. What about the bore?
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19611 |
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Boring an engine gives a minuscule power increase by itself. In general you bore to true up the cylinders, not to gain 1 or 2 cubic inches. Replacement oversize pistons also make up for the difference in bore with a slightly larger dish or shorter piston so that compression remains stock. That is unless you order custom pistons to your specifications. When you rebuild the engine have the machine shop check the cylinders for wear and see if they recommend boring. At that point bore it as little as possible. You also need to send them the crank so they can determine how much it need to be turned to true up before ordering a rebuild kit. They will tell you what size pistons and bearings to order. The shop shouldn't bore the engine until they get the pistons so the bore can be sized to the pistons. The pistons may be 0.030" over, for example, but then there are clearances to consider, and the pistons might measure out to 0.029" or 0.031" instead of exactly 0.030".
If the shop sells parts they may give you a better deal on the rebuild kit, or a better deal on the machine work if you buy the kit from them also. Get a quote from them for just the machine work AND for machine work plus parts before shopping for a kit so you can decide which way to go. Edited by farna - Sep/08/2009 at 2:15pm |
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Frank Swygert
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1968AMC770Wagon
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2009 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 1137 |
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What year head should i go with?
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forest
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/14/2008 Status: Offline Points: 2114 |
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95
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setting guys out by car lengths....
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