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T5/Tremec to AMC Roller Pilot Bearing

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jeremy0711 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeremy0711 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: T5/Tremec to AMC Roller Pilot Bearing
    Posted: Aug/08/2011 at 2:25pm
I know there are a few of you guys trying to figure out how to put a roller bearing into an AMC crank. Here is what I used. As the bearing to fit the input on a 0.68 ID is strictly an OEM product for certain customers and not massed produced according to Tri-State Bearing in my hometown that sells to industries and such so I opted for a 5.0 roller bearing/bushing through Autozone. Tri-State said that these are very nice high grade bearings plus they have a seal on one side to keep the grease in. This bearing has to fit in the smaller part of the crank as the old bushing did. The Tremec/T5 goes pretty far into the crank and I will post a picture later of that as my wife apparently erased that pic on my mockup of what it looks like with the tranny on the bell attached to the engine.    

autozone bearing

I actually bought the timken bearing which is a buck more but the picture of the autozone brand is correct and this is what I started out with from a mach 1 project. The Autozone grade is actually a German made bearing that is just as good as a Timken so buy as you wish there.

I pressed out the bearing from the bushing with a hydraulic press and took to bushing to a precision machine shop and not all shops have lathes to hold a small bushing from the inside. It cost me 20 bucks to have it machined. I printed off a copy of the crank dimensions and gave this to them to refernce what I was doing and needing.



Here is an old bushing on the right from my old Mustang days and a new one on the left. The bearing is at the center top. I have two pics posted of topside and bottomside of the bushings before and after the machining.




More pics coming soon...

Edited by jeremy0711 - Aug/08/2011 at 11:43pm
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billd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/08/2011 at 2:45pm
Your machinist works cheap! Seriously - cost me about 80 to have a throw-out bearing modified.

Your pilot info should come in handy for others needing a similar solution.

I used my neighbor's lathe, cut an adapter and pressed it into the crank, then pressed in a sealed bal bearing. Didn't trust the nose on the T5....... works slick. I took a ton of measurements to see how far the nose of the T5 went into the crankshaft, made sure that the bearing didn't hit the radius of the input shaft where the splines start and now have a perfectly quiet pilot, smooth shifting transmission, and it's a sealed ball bearing.

I made the thing fit into the larger crank opening you see here, not the deeper one farther in.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeremy0711 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/08/2011 at 10:52pm
Well here are some more pics and one pic of how the tranny looks against the engine without a clutch in the way. It is a good thing that the T5 weighs less than the T10. I believe that I have benched pressed that thing in and out about 10 times now. Sides pipes are so nice on a tranny swap...

Here is the crank without the machined bushing..



Now here is the crank with the machined bushing and NO bearing yet...



And here is a pic with just the bushing and NO bearing yet and with the block plate, bell, and tranny in crank snout... The pic most have been waiting to see...



This is my final decision on placement of the bearing into the bushing. If you go this route as I have then you will see there feels like a comfort spot on the snout so I positioned this bearing where that spot is. I am about a 1/16 to an 1/8 out of the bushing. That bushing was machined with a lip on it still as the stock unit bought from the store and is a must to be able to set your bearing in that spot.



Take a good look at that seal and bearing. I had slightly mangled the rubber one my old one which is why I bought a new one for the AMX. I could have done it when I dropped the T5 to put the FMX in on the Mach 1. Take it easy when you put the tranny in the bell as there is a lot of momentum in the tranny install.    

Edited by jeremy0711 - Aug/08/2011 at 11:50pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeremy0711 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/08/2011 at 11:21pm
I am currently using a stock AMC T5 bell, a machined Ford retainer from 90 on down to fit inside the bell, tranny is an 87 3.35 first (I was going to upgrade the gears but thought I would see if this tranny would grenade before I have half the money of a TKO 600 into it as the 2.95 first gear is still on the threshold of the engine's power. So I just set up a 3.35 first gear with new bearings and syncros, heavy cluster support plate, additional preload to cluster and mainshaft, and a positive stop shifter.) My tranny is an 87 so I have a neutral safety switch that I will wire in to the console's harness plus making the backup lights work too with the switch on the side. The later trannys don't have this switch for the neutral safety on top.

94-95 v8 trannys will require an earlier Ford retainer machined down to the steel AMC one with the shorter Fox body input shaft. 94-99 v6 trannys are the same as the v8s and will require the same stuff due to the body change requiring a longer bell to get the shifter where they wanted it on the car for those years. These trannys are actually better than the 92 on down due to improvements. A 93 v8 Fox body tranny is the most ideal tranny for this setup other than the Cobra trans for the Fox body or also called the Z spec trans. 96 and up v8 used a Tremec 3550 and I haven't ventured down that path and when I do it will just be a TKO600 instead.    

I also had my 401 balanced when I rebuilt it. So likely I got the McCleod flywheel balanced today. I have a stock 401 bottom end with forged pistons and it needed a lot of weight added to the front of the crank. This overpriced flywheel was also 2 oz off. I do not know how you guys are buying a perfect match flywheel and putting it on without balancing it. Track Master Balancing is the guy I used and he said the same thing to me as AMC made such a mess out of their balancing.   

I will make another posting regarding the driveline angles after I get done scraping the floors and respraying them.

Edited by jeremy0711 - Aug/08/2011 at 11:35pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeremy0711 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/08/2011 at 11:30pm
billd, I went to a NON-engine related precision machine shop. Maybe I was the first so he was nice to me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/09/2011 at 6:56am
So did I, but then again, Des moines......... VERY expensive for machine shop work unless it's for engines then it's cheap! Go figure.
Anyway, VERY nice on the pilot bearing! Great photos - will be a good reference.
Did you put the bearing part number in or did I just miss that part?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/09/2011 at 9:50am
Nice! I would have liked to seen a picture of the bushing/bearing/trany bolted up with out the clutch just to see where that bearing rides on the input shaft as it looks like it could be back to far?
For my T5 I went with a stock type bushing but if I have issues I will go this route.
 
BTW I hear you on the $$ for the 2.95 gear set I had to replace most of the gears in mine (free trany) and with the master kit & upgrades parts where just under $1000, should have gone with a new unit from Summit!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeremy0711 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/09/2011 at 11:02am
Fuzzface.... There is a pic of the tranny in the crank. Roll up a few postings and look at my pics. Second to last one that I posted of pics is the one you are seeking
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/09/2011 at 12:55pm
Originally posted by jeremy0711 jeremy0711 wrote:

Fuzzface.... There is a pic of the tranny in the crank. Roll up a few postings and look at my pics. Second to last one that I posted of pics is the one you are seeking
OK I thought it was with out the bearing. Looks like the bearing is too close to the splines but could be the picture.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeremy0711 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/10/2011 at 2:04pm
There is about a 1/4" area where the bushing stops and the tapered part meet that is all smooth machined surface to place that bearing outward if you choose. You could always not put an edge on the bushing and let it bottom out into the crank. The machined part of the input shaft is fairly long at around an inch or so and goes far into the crank. FYI...The tapered part breaks the plane of the larger opening of the later crank and is why I didn't place a bearing in that area as I was originally thinking that this is how others were doing it. If the bearing is found for the larger opening then it would have to be a really narrow, bearing. The bearings that you get through Autozone for a fox body 5.0 is a very good bearing no matter whether you get the Timken or the Autozone/German grade and those bearing capacities well exceeds what we are doing. If you choose this route then you get a rubber sealed up system. The industrial store I went to said this would be a better route for a sealed bearing in this application.    

Edited by jeremy0711 - Aug/10/2011 at 2:06pm
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