Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
frame rails |
Post Reply | Page 123> |
Author | |
jave71
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/05/2009 Location: ny Status: Offline Points: 50 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: Feb/12/2012 at 9:31pm |
anyone ever repair the front frame rails on a 71 sst javelin?
|
|
1970390amx
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/11/2008 Location: colorado Status: Offline Points: 3314 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I think a member showed some repairs on frame rails on a 70 javelin in the member projects section. Maybe skeeter was the member, not sure. What are you looking to repair? I have read it is not wise to patch front rails and they should be replaced as one piece for safety reasons. Others may or may not agree.
|
|
1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX
1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box |
|
tyrodtom
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 6213 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
No, but I have on Ramblers, Hornets, and Gremlins. Not radically different.
Why?
|
|
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
|
|
hassyfoto
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/16/2009 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 3378 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yes,
What is it that you want to know?
|
|
Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment |
|
jave71
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/05/2009 Location: ny Status: Offline Points: 50 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
just purchased 71 sst both frame rails are rusted where they bend up.just wondering if i should replace the rails or patch them? i know its hard to tell without seeing them. i will send pics as soon as i figure out how.
|
|
FuzzFace2
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/05/2007 Location: Angier, N.C. Status: Offline Points: 10356 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
A lot deppends on skill & tools you have at hand, where it is on the frame and if you find any more before you get started on the part(s) you know are bad now. Below is from my 70 Javelin just the inside & bottom where bad the outside & top were good. Also that part mostly supports the bumper. The 2 bolts/holes are for the idlerarm and because the outside was still good I used that to guide the drill bit to drill news holes on the inside frame plate. BTW that was all done in my 1 car home garage using a 120v MIG welder. The plate was cut/bent using the other side as a jig.
Before
During
After
Dave ----
|
|
TSM = Technical Service Manual
75 Gremlin X v8 for sale 70 Javelin 360/auto drag car 70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car |
|
jave71
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/05/2009 Location: ny Status: Offline Points: 50 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Edited by jave71 - Feb/13/2012 at 4:50pm |
|
jave71
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/05/2009 Location: ny Status: Offline Points: 50 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Nice job fuzzface2 what gauge metal did you use? Im concerned that it is at the weakest point of the frame, any recommendations on how I should fixed it or should i just part out the car?
|
|
hassyfoto
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/16/2009 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 3378 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
As Dave (fuzzface) stated, it depends on your skill level and availability of tools ( metal working tools, welder, etc....) Frame rail repair is very possible, it happens in restoration shops and by many hobby do-it-yourselfers all the time. You do need some understanding of the construction of cars and how a repair vs. replacement of an entire panel effects the car. The frame rail forward of the suspension is critical for sheetmetal alignment and part(s) attachement, plus some collision impact considerations. The frame rail areas supporting the engine or suspension or center of the car is much more critical. The area of your frame rail rust is multiple layered. The outer rail & then in the bend area is a inner reinforcement. When you identify this, your repair plan needs to consider removing a larger section of the outer metal in order to repair the inner panel first & then repair the outer frame rail panel. You can accomplish this same thing with the floor pans & firewall removed. So as you can see, a thorough assessment of the rust damage is needed first. Remove some of the rusted metal to see the extent of damages. Create your repair plan. Decide if you have the tools & equipment to complete the repair yourself or if you will send the car out to have a pro complete the metal work. Consider the cost(s) of each. Another thing to consider is the level of knowledge you need for repairs in this area of the car. A cardinal error is not setting the car up to be level, make measurements for all sheetmetal alignment ( door to fender, door to quarter, door to roof gaps (measurements) and then compensating for sag in the car body prior to removing and welding in replacement panels or patches to the torque box area of the frame rails. In other words when you start removing metal from the frame rails or the car has rust, the car actually sags ( not visable to the naked eye. sometimes it shows up as door alignment issues). Before you cut out a frame rail & weld in another replacement panel, a understanding of how to set the car up & measure for sag is needed. I mention these items to weigh in your options very carefully as mistakes can be very costly in money or how the car gaps look after reassembly.
Some pics of repair to my 70 Javelin
What you do not see in the pics is the car was measured, the sag was corrected & a metal bar welded to the frame of the car before the rusted metal was removed. The doors were left on the car during the repairs as a quick check to make sure of the gaps & metal alignment during the repair process.
Hope that gives you good info.
You may or may not repair the car yourself, but having lived on the east coast most of my life, I am used to repairing rust buckets. Some of the folks in the Southwest would look for a better car, but on the east coast, some of the rust buckets are the better cars. Just saying!
|
|
Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment |
|
FuzzFace2
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/05/2007 Location: Angier, N.C. Status: Offline Points: 10356 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
As Hassyfoto said you have to get the prep right first and check everything along the way. For us guys that have done a few of this typr of work before we forget to show some steps of the prep or along the way that we do. In my case the lower radiator support was replaced too so before any welding took place I fit it in place along with the radiator to make sure all lined up. I then made adjustments as needed, reclamped everything before pulling radiator & welding.
On yours and I did on mine too, I would have a look at the rest of the car. Is there any more frame rot, do floors or inner rockers need to be replaced how bout body panles? Does the car mean something to me and is it 1 of say 100? Mine iss a 70 390 4sp car, rest of frame, floors rockers and all body panels but the rear qt. are all good. Just the outter qt. are bad, trunk & drop offs look good and why I did what I did. That and I have done this type of work years ago so have the skill & most of the tools at home to do the job.
So after going over your car as above only you can say is it worth putting the work into it. A lot has to do with if you can do the work or not. To pay someone to do it might not make it worth it? Then again barter the work my turn it around?
Dave ----
|
|
TSM = Technical Service Manual
75 Gremlin X v8 for sale 70 Javelin 360/auto drag car 70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car |
|
Post Reply | Page 123> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |