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emission control removal

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wayneg View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wayneg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: emission control removal
    Posted: Aug/17/2013 at 12:06pm
What does it take and what are the consequences of removing the emissions control tubing, etc. on a 1979 Pacer 258? What needs to be done after removal?
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Mr. Ed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mr. Ed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/17/2013 at 12:33pm
Depends on your state's emission control laws. Some states do not require emissions inspection on car after a certain year. If that is the case, you can remove the hardware and plug the manifold holes with 1/8" pipe plugs ( I think that is the right size). Then you can either store or dispose of the excess parts. Your car will pick up 5-10 HP with the removal of the smog pump.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carnuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/17/2013 at 12:42pm
If the smog pump is near seizing, the power pickup is even greater. Cat has to go and if you want the air to keep smelling good, you can put a non-aerobic high flow cat in it's place. I sold my OEM cat for scrap and got almost enough to pay for the new high flow ($55) Around here you have to give the VIN to go with the cat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2013 at 2:46pm
A car with a functional emissions system will run far better than a car with a hacked-up, half removed emissions system, so before people go digging around, it's important to know exactly what the systems do and how they affect each other. If you do all this, you'll see a 10-20 Hp improvement in power, but no improvement in hot it starts and idles unless the original emissions systems are malfunctioning to begin with.

PCV: No performance impact and removal requires complete carburetor recalibration. It stays.

EVAP: Keeps the car from smelling like raw gas and no performance impact. It stays.

AIR: Increases exhaust backpressure and engine driven pump uses some power. It goes away along with the catalytic converter with no other adjustments required in most cases.

CAT: Increases exhaust backpressure and the original style will fail without the AIR system. It goes away along with the AIR system, and no other adjustments are needed usually.

TCS: Can reduce throttle response, but has no effect on full throttle power, so it's not really harmful. The only real reason to remove this system is for simplicity. The whole system can be replaced with one or two vacuum lines if so desired, but don't mess with the internal calibration of the distributor.

THERMAC: It's a good thing for cold weather and the choke can never be set perfectly to make up for removing it, so it stays.

EGR: Actually increases engine efficiency at cruising speed, so it's a good thing. Removal requires enriching of the carburetor main mixture and reduction in distributor vacuum advance, but advance start and end points should remain the same.



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