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Where to hook up wire for electric choke??

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348AMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 348AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2013 at 9:52pm
Originally posted by Sonic Silver Sonic Silver wrote:

Originally posted by FSJunkie FSJunkie wrote:

Directly to the ignition switch "run" position. It's even better to have an oil pressure switch wired in series so that the choke doesn't heat until the engine is actually running.

I caution against wiring it into an existing circuit. Those choke heaters can pull close to 5A.

Please please please post follow-ups on how you like the carburetor. That's a carb I've had my eye on for a while.
I have 2 of those carburetors. Couldn't be happier.


If electric choke where did you power it off? I like the idea of powering it only when the engine starts, but I also think there is a distinct advantage to using "key on" power for it since if the car sits for awhile when I have it out and stop somewhere, and the choke closes you can just turn the key and let it sit for a minute to let if fully open again. Just a thought.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote toolmanxiii Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2013 at 5:27am
I'm not sure what year they added the yellow wire with  female spade connector to the wiring harness on the fire wall . but it is a great place to run from . switched 12 v .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hudson7X Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2013 at 7:34am

Just curious why not the "I" pole on the solenoid? 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2013 at 7:46am
I is resisted, for the coil, not good
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2013 at 8:17am
I used the auto trans kick-down 12V feed for mine. It was hanging unused under the wiper motor (my car is a 4 speed). That saved having to run a wire through the firewall to the fuse block. I also had to run a jumper between two terminals on a connector under the dash to activate that wire in the engine compartment due to the missing kickdown switch at the gas pedal.

I also used a 1980 vintage oil pressure switch. I has 3 terminals on it: one for idiot light and two for choke heater. Run the 12V through these terminals and the choke pulloff will only be energized when there is oil pressure i.e. engine running. You don't want the choke warming if the engine is off, but the key is on ACC.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2013 at 8:20am
Originally posted by Hudson7X Hudson7X wrote:

Just curious why not the "I" pole on the solenoid? 

As tsanchez said, it is fed by a resistor wire. If you add another load, the voltage will drop. That means the choke won't pull off at the correct rate. Worse, you will be dropping voltage to the coil and hence the plugs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SCReplica Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2013 at 8:21am
Could you provide more info on the oil pressure switch, such as a part number, or what year and engine it was designed for.  Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx39068 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2013 at 8:29am
Originally posted by bigbad69 bigbad69 wrote:

I used the auto trans kick-down 12V feed for mine. It was hanging unused under the wiper motor (my car is a 4 speed). 

That's a great idea that I hadn't thought of....think I will use it on the latest SC/Rambler restoration that is getting its decals installed today
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sonic Silver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2013 at 10:09am
Originally posted by 348AMX 348AMX wrote:

Originally posted by Sonic Silver Sonic Silver wrote:

Originally posted by FSJunkie FSJunkie wrote:

Directly to the ignition switch "run" position. It's even better to have an oil pressure switch wired in series so that the choke doesn't heat until the engine is actually running.

I caution against wiring it into an existing circuit. Those choke heaters can pull close to 5A.

Please please please post follow-ups on how you like the carburetor. That's a carb I've had my eye on for a while.
I have 2 of those carburetors. Couldn't be happier.


If electric choke where did you power it off? I like the idea of powering it only when the engine starts, but I also think there is a distinct advantage to using "key on" power for it since if the car sits for awhile when I have it out and stop somewhere, and the choke closes you can just turn the key and let it sit for a minute to let if fully open again. Just a thought.
I bought a 12 volt DC/40A SPST automotive relay from Radio Shack catalog #275-001. It has 4 terminals from which you run one wire to each outer post of the starter solenoid, one to ground, and one to the positive terminal of the choke. You can find it online at Radio Shack. It sells for $6.49, and works perfectly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401MATCOUPE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2013 at 10:42am
If we just back to the AMC Jeep/Motorcraft electric choke days.  The have 1 oil pressure switch and one transmitter, one single wire for the goes to transmitter to run gauge in dash, the 3 wire oil pressure switch runs the electric choke....when you have oil pressure the switch closes to complete the circuit.  Switch is availabe from NAPA, can be looked up under the Jeep section.  The same set up is basically used on rallye pac cars.....a tee in the oil pressure switch fitting at the block.
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