TheAMCForum.com Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > The Garage > AMC 6 Cylinder Engine Repair and Modifications
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - which 6 cyl is in my 64 american wagon?
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Click for TheAMCForum Rules / Click for PDF version of Forum Rules
Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.

which 6 cyl is in my 64 american wagon?

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <12345 6>
Author
Message
auag85201 View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice


Joined: Sep/26/2017
Location: arizona
Status: Offline
Points: 138
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote auag85201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/20/2017 at 12:41am
thanks nick..i was looking at a 2001 chevy s10...the hoses are on the correct side and inlet and outlet are the right diameter...i might try to cob it in and see how it works...toms fix?...
Back to Top
farna View Drop Down
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Avatar
Moderator Lost Dealership Project

Joined: Jul/08/2007
Location: South Carolina
Status: Offline
Points: 19610
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/20/2017 at 6:48am
I've never done more than change the oil in a car that has sat for years in the woods/barn/etc. either. Certainly won;t hurt to pull the pan, clean it, and inspect a rod bearing or two, and a main, but I'd fire it up first myself.

One thing not mentioned though is to NOT use the gas tank! If fuel evaporated in it there will be a residue caoting the bottom. Modern gas with alcohol will dissolve that mess and pull it through the engine. The result is usually sticky valves. Tom and I have both experienced that, him from a car that sat a long time and mine from one that sat 8-9 months (but tank was old, but had never been completely dry.. this was 12-13 years after it had sat for 3-4 years, and was driven all those 12-13 years!). So pull the fuel line from the fuel pump to tank and run a new line into a quart - gallon container you can hang somewhere under the hood. 1/2 gallon milk jug will do, or a gallon anti-freeze/oil jug. Hang on the passenger side, since exhaust is on the driver's side. Drop the tank and clean it before using.

Not too hard to clean, pour something like Awesome, Simply Green, or Purple Power into it -- about a gallon of the concentrate with a gallon of water (50/50 mix). Let it sit in the bottom of the tank overnight. Slosh it around first, then slosh real good before draining. If you get a lot of rust out you can clean again using brick cleaning acid or grout cleaner. Follow directions for dilluting as if cleaning brick, and get a small box of baking soda. Slosh that around good (won't hurt for it to sit overnight), then pour in the baking soda and slosh one last time. Neutralizes the acid and contents can be poured out down a drain. Then rinse with water until it comes out clean (with either cleaner). I'd use a tank sealer after that just to coat the inside and hold down any loose particles that might break loose later. Hirsch makes a good sealer, as does Eastwood (which appears to be a copy of the Hirsch product... or rebranded). Both also make a kit with cleaners and good directions. As long as the tank has been cleaned and dried it's good. The dry time makes this a 2-3 day process, but you'll be glad you did. You might want to replace the steel line (brake line works), but I'm not so concerned about it as long as it is in good physical condition. A little residue through the engine (as from inside those lines) won't hurt -- it will clean out as you run it. It's the large amount that dissolves at once in the tank that's the big issue.
Frank Swygert
Back to Top
auag85201 View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice


Joined: Sep/26/2017
Location: arizona
Status: Offline
Points: 138
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote auag85201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/20/2017 at 9:45am
frank...i'm with you..all i ever did was fresh oil...clean the carb...run the engine from a separate gallon jug till i can get the tank cleaned....on cleaning the tank..i'm kinda lazy i guess ..i dont even bother pulling the tank...i take a couple gallons of fresh gas..mix in some sea foam or essential lube (industrial fuel additive)...pour it in the tank...jump up and down on the rear bumper a few times to agitate it...let it sit overnight..pump it out..repeat the procedure one more time and its usually good to go...the new gas they are selling us is junk..its the ethanol they added...they removed all the good additives and put in that rotten ethanol....25 years ago a car could sit for 5 years and start right up with no problem....now if they sit for 6 months it wont start
Back to Top
farna View Drop Down
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Avatar
Moderator Lost Dealership Project

Joined: Jul/08/2007
Location: South Carolina
Status: Offline
Points: 19610
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/21/2017 at 8:02am
Ethanol isn't a "bad additive". The only thing it does is dissolve all the old gunk in the tank. If you've only run ethanol added gas the tank will be really clean inside. It's just evaporated gas that is the issue. The chemical formulation has changed over the years to make gasoline vaporize easier. That also means parts of it will evaporate easier. So leave gas sitting for more than six months and it loses volatility (ability to ignite). My brother drained 2-3 year old gas out of a tank (2nd tank of a truck, transfer pump had quit with 1/2 a tank!) and it not only stunk to high heaven but it wouldn't even light. Thought he'd use it to start a brush fire... wrong!!

If you look at fuel system cleaners, the main ingredient is ethanol.  Ethanol got a bad rep at first for dissolving rubber. Well, it is corrosive in a pure form (10% in gasoline doesn't do much), and you need a specific type of "rubber" to use with it. Well, nothing made over the last 30 years is susceptible to ethanol. So unless you're trying to use an NOS carb kit from before 1988 or so ethanol isn't an issue. If you have "rubber" fuel lines and such that are 30+ years old you really need to replace them anyway. This can be an issue for some of the older carbs that newer replacement parts aren't made for, but that's about it. I use "rubber" in quotes because very little is made from natural rubber any more. Lines and such are mostly neoprene or some other synthetic rubber-like material.
Frank Swygert
Back to Top
auag85201 View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice


Joined: Sep/26/2017
Location: arizona
Status: Offline
Points: 138
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote auag85201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/21/2017 at 9:29am
they first started using ethanol in fuels around here in the late 80's and early 90's..the first thing i noticed is a drop in fuel economy....everyone was griping about their gas mileage dropping
Back to Top
farna View Drop Down
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Avatar
Moderator Lost Dealership Project

Joined: Jul/08/2007
Location: South Carolina
Status: Offline
Points: 19610
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/21/2017 at 10:02am
Ethanol doesn't have as much energy (BTUs) as gasoline, so yes, you drop 1-2 mpg, and a little power as well. That's two reasons not to run more than a 10% mix in vehicles designed for regular gasoline. You can make up for the losses with more compression, but you have to have an engine designed specifically for it. The flex fuel vehicles have a bit more compression, but the computer has a wider range of adjustment than most regular gasoline engines so it can tune for the fuel mix used -- which might be part E10 and part E85. They still drop a lot of mileage as they can't have the compression an engine that would run exclusively on E85 could have -- then they wouldn't be able to run E10.

Ethanol works well in Brazil because it's easiest to extract from things sugar cane, harder to extract from corn. It also doesn't work well in cold climates -- a lot warmer in Brazil than in the northern parts of the US!!
Frank Swygert
Back to Top
tomj View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jan/27/2010
Location: earth
Status: Offline
Points: 7522
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/21/2017 at 9:53pm
Originally posted by auag85201 auag85201 wrote:

tom...i was an auto mechanic for 25 years..and in that period of time i brought many cars that were sitting for years back to life and never experienced what you are talking about..the truck i'm driving now sat for two years...i drive it every day with no rod knocksWink 

my apologies, didn't mean to tell you things know. the head-bolt-torque issue is unique to that engine. likely all will work out just fine.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

Back to Top
auag85201 View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice


Joined: Sep/26/2017
Location: arizona
Status: Offline
Points: 138
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote auag85201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/21/2017 at 10:23pm
no problem tom...i came on this forum because i never worked on a rambler before..i knew there would be things unique to these engines and i knew this would be the place to learn ...with the help of you guys i'll have the old turd back on the road again soon....i think i have a radiator located locally so it wont be long now....i cant stand to see anything go to the crusher or get parted out so i have to rescue them....the wife says i'm a glutton for punishment  
Back to Top
auag85201 View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice


Joined: Sep/26/2017
Location: arizona
Status: Offline
Points: 138
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote auag85201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/29/2017 at 8:07pm
the old 64 brought back to life today after sitting 20 years......i had a little trouble getting the points to fire but they finally did and it started right up and purred...something up front was making a little noise..i noticed some oilers at the front and back of the generator..i oiled both and it shut right up...i hopped in at pushed in the clutch and ran through the gears...al went good untill i put it in first and started to let out the clutch...it started to move but wouldnt go...i could hear the transmission turning but no go...i'm guessing the overdrive is the problem...the control cable is stuck so i cant shift in or out of overdrive....i'm not exactly sure how the overdrive works  but there is a control cable under the dash and a push button switch on the carb linkage
Back to Top
pacerman View Drop Down
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Supporter of TheAMCForum


Joined: Jul/03/2007
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 9045
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pacerman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/29/2017 at 8:30pm
Congratulations on getting it running.  The overdrive is activated by pushing the handle on the cable (under the dash) forward as far as it will go.  Then you shift normally and in third gear above about 28 mph, you briefly let up on the accelerator and the overdrive engages.  It disengages with no further action on your part when you slow below the high 20's in mph.  To lock out the overdrive, you pull the handle out as far as it will go. Until you have read the manual, it is best to neither engage or disengage the overdrive when the car is moving. 

 The cable is a bowdoin cable like a throttle cable on your lawn mower.   You will need to try lubricating it with you favorite spray lube.  If you are ready to drive the car, and want to test the overdrive with the cable still frozen, get under the car and disconnect the cable at the transmission and make sure the switch is positioned to the rear.  The push button on the throttle linkage is intended to disengage the overdrive at full throttle for passing.  I glove box manual describes how to use the overdrive.  The TSM describes how to diagnose problems.  Joe


Edited by pacerman - Dec/29/2017 at 8:33pm
Happiness is making something out of nothing.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <12345 6>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.109 seconds.
All content of this site Copyright © 2018 TheAMCForum unless otherwise noted, all rights reserved.
PROBLEMS LOGGING IN or REGISTERING:
If you have problems logging in or registering, then please contact a Moderator or