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Sealing brake lines

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mstrcrftr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mstrcrftr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 12:41pm
having done a ton of stainless lines, i have found that putting a slight bevel on the inside of the line will allow the tool to flare the end much better.  a dremel tool works well for this.  just dont over do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 12:53pm
I've had nothing but trouble with stainless and figure there's no need for it since the originals lasted over 40 years and if one flushes the system every-other year like the brake companies recommend, the modern lines will last longer than 40 years.

The stainless I bought for my 70 took ungodly force to seal and I still don't totally trust 'em.
They were pre-bent/pre-formed, pre-flared.
On one of the lines - it was TOO LONG (so much for perfect fit replacements from the vendors) and I had to cut and reflare the end. That didn't work out too bad - but it still takes crazy force to seal.

Modern lines are different material and some are even coated to resist corrosion - and with an occasional flush, they will last longer that YOU do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Devil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 3:37pm
Unless you're doing a 100% correct restoration, suggest copper-nickel lines.   They cost more than steel but are easier to form and flare, seal better and are almost as corrosion resistant as stainless.   Bulk line is available at most automotive parts places, including on-line stores like Summit and Jegs.  

Hope this helps, RD 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tufcj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 5:23pm
I have one of the Eastwood flaring tools also.  It's easy to make great flares, but only on the bench.  I got the 37* dies also so I can couple to AN fittings too.   I built all of the fuel and brake lines for my 67.  I also use this deburring tool from Eastwood to get a better flare.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-tubing-deburring-tool.html

Bob
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74 Javelin AMX
67 Rogue

If you need a tool and don't buy it...
you'll eventually pay for it...
and not have it.
Henry Ford
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 6:22pm
I have the an Eastwood style faring tool as well, not cheap, but you can't go wrong:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftYuP-5jj4o
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 7:40pm
 The cone of the component (ie. the cone shaped part inside the master cylinder, wheel cylinder etc.) and the flare of the tube - the inside part -  is what seal the connection. The tube nut only holds the flare to the seat.  The inside of a tube is often rough and a double-flare presents the smoother outside of the tube, plus you have the extra material to convey the force more evenly (helps account for any differences in the wall of the tube, the weld area of the tube and so on)

SAE automotive fittings are flared at 45 degrees (although there are also 37 degree SAE flares, we aren't dealing with those here)
The inside of the nut has a 45 degree angle, the flare has a 45 degree angle but the fitting inside, for example, a master cylinder or wheel cylinder, has a 42 degree angle - and that's what helps force the seal - it's like when you create a difference between valve face and valve seats.
If you have trouble, try loosening the fitting and tightening it a few times, force things.
I did and it still took a lot of effort..... but it's worth a shot.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpnjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 7:58pm
Originally posted by Red Devil Red Devil wrote:

Unless you're doing a 100% correct restoration, suggest copper-nickel lines.   They cost more than steel but are easier to form and flare, seal better and are almost as corrosion resistant as stainless.   Bulk line is available at most automotive parts places, including on-line stores like Summit and Jegs.  

Hope this helps, RD 


I just did some of these in my Javelin and was very happy with how easy they flared.

I never did stainless, but even with the old steel lines I would normally have to tighten down a C-clamp around the brake clamp to keep the lines from slipping back as I flared them.

I would do nickle-copper or would buy premade stainless.

Not sure if heating the lines would help any?
71 P-code 4spd Javelin/AMX
some Jeeps and some Fords
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/14/2018 at 7:04am
Originally posted by Red Devil Red Devil wrote:

Unless you're doing a 100% correct restoration, suggest copper-nickel lines.   They cost more than steel but are easier to form and flare, seal better and are almost as corrosion resistant as stainless.   Bulk line is available at most automotive parts places, including on-line stores like Summit and Jegs.  

Hope this helps, RD 


X2  With a bender and a decent flaring tool, you can mimic the stock lines pretty close without the expense of stainless. I've done pre bent stainless before and even those were a pita to get a few of the flares to seal.

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akimmet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/14/2018 at 10:37am
I have a Mastercool 41475. It is a little expensive, but dose an excellent job. I haven't had to deal with a bad flare ever since I have gotten it. This flaring tool can even do more modern flares such as push-lock and GM o-ring.

The Eastwood 25304 is a little cheaper and has a good reputation, it is just a little more bulky to use. You need to mount it in a vice, while the Mastercool is self-contained.

The Cal Van tool 164 is even cheaper.

The have never had good luck with clamp style flaring tools, even the expensive ones.

Copper-nickel (aka UltraBend, Cuniform, & NiCopp) is safe to use for brake lines. Not to be confused with regular copper lines, which should never be used for brake lines.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scramboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/14/2018 at 8:21pm
I ordered some nicopp lines and I've got access to a mastercool set. I did a comparison of flares and it's no contest. I suggest using a Mastercool set if possible. I did notice that after really cranking down on the sealing nuts it destroys the internal sealing cone on the female side of the component. This is important when you destroy hard to replace proportioning valves and safety switches. Keep that in mind when using a cheap flaring set.
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