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FSJ Jeep Radiator in Rambler

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Mopar_guy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/20/2016 at 3:25pm
Originally posted by raser13 raser13 wrote:

Might have to throw this three core radiator and taurus fan set up on my list of scavenger build items for my javelin. Should have plenty of room in a humpster nose. Ihave usrd the taurus fan in the past it's an amazing fan for a junkyard find. Last one cost me $10.

Is there any reason not to use the original ford fan controller??


A Taurus fan wouldn't fit in mine because the motor hit the water pump so I had to use the twin Contour fans where the water pump came out in between them. Here's a picture of it. http://theamcforum.com/forum/topic58986_post544657.html#544657

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/21/2016 at 6:32am
I think the Taurus fan is controlled by the ECM and doesn't have a separate controller, just a couple relays. Not sure where they are. I've never heard of anyone using a Taurus controller, only the Volvo controller... which apparently is separate from the ECM.

The Taurus shroud is thick -- I cut mine down to fit with my six cylinder. Don't think I'd have had a problem with a V-8, but then the water pump shaft on the V-8 is longer to get the engine driven fan closer to the radiator -- the 4.0L pump shaft is short. I only had about 1/2" between fan and water pump with the two core radiator. Since the third core adds about another 1/2" to the radiator thickness...
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/21/2016 at 7:30am
Back at it yesterday! I had to lower the radiator about an inch, so had to drill new mounting holes. In this photos the oblong holes are the originals. I measured and drilled the top hole with no problem, but measured wrong for the bottom holes and drilled one to low, so had to drill another between the original and the wrong one...



Here's a pic of the Taurus fan on the Jeep radiator. The fan fits the taller core a lot better than the shorter Rambler radiator (see first pic in first post). I wouldn't have had to trim the shroud to fit over the top tank, but it's just too thick. Even it it was a two core I'd have had to alter the shroud a bit to fit closer. I know that limits the amount of air drawn through the radiator outside the diameter of the fan, but the fan does have a deep hub. The blades are about an inch away from the radiator when the hub only has about 1/8" clearance.



Below you can see how far the Taurus fan is above the surface of the radiator. It's about 3.5", and I trimmed at least 1/2" from the shroud to make it fit closer. In the above photo you can see where I trimmed the mounting tabs off the right side and drilled holes through the shroud for plastic through-the-radiator-core mounts.



In contrast, here are the aftermarket fans on the Jeep FSJ radiator. Good core coverage.



Note the lower hose nipple -- fans are appreciably thinner than the Taurus fan. This is a flatter angle than the Taurus fan photo -- the center of the Tarus fan is a bit taller than it appears.



Looks like LOADS of room with the thinner fans! Remember, the Taurus fan would have cleared the water pump pulley bolts by only 1/8".  One of these would have cleared it by an inch, and since the fan motors aren't in the center right in front of the water pump there is even more clearance in the center.



The next photo shows the engine wiring harness where it passes along the lower radiator support. It was attached to the edge of that "pan" under the radiator. I drilled holes in the pinch weld area of the lower support/crossmember to mount it. It could possibly catch on something in the road, but I have it mounted pretty tight. As long as my zip ties don't come loose I think I'm okay. If I happen to hit anything that tall in the road I'll have to get out an check. I might better put a couple extra zip ties in the glove box just in case... though I doubt I'll need them.



The final photo! It's hard to see, but this is why I couldn't move the radiator any further forward... well, that and the supports. The vertical fins near the bottom is the transmission cooler. It's right up against the hood latch support and the AC condensor. The grille is concave on the 63. In a 64 I could have moved the trans cooler in front of the latch. But then I'd have had to cut the supports and welding in new ones just in front of the old. Hmm.. that would probably affect the hood latch location, so not as good/easy and idea as it sounds...



All that's left to do is to connect the fan controller. As I said earlier, I'm just going to connect one fan for now to the existing adjustable controller. I have a second controller to install for the other fan so I can stage them so both don't come on at once. Only one will be wired to come on whenever the AC is turned on.


Edited by farna - Jul/20/2017 at 7:14am
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/21/2016 at 9:12am
Got the single fan wired to the controller I was using. With one fan the larger radiator (holds about a quart and a half more than the old two core) is working fine without running AC, but it's been cool outside too... no more than mid 50s so far that I've driven in.

One curious observation -- I've been watching the temp gauge closely. Gauge sending unit is in the t-stat housing, not the best place, but works. Temp runs a pretty steady 180. Dash gauge is on the stock temp sender location. That sender isn't the right range for the dash gauge (and I can't find a small diameter sender in the right range, adapters pull the sender too far out of the water to read right), but I know where the dash gauge should read and it's there. The curious thing is that the running temp goes up when the heater is on. 180 without heater, 190-195 when heater is on. I run a 195 t-stat. The only thing I can think of to cause this is the change in water circulation, but it is puzzling. I wonder if this is by design??

I'm hoping the single fan will be fine even with outside temps in the 80s and 90s without the AC on. I'm going to wire the second fan to a separate adjustable controller and set it a bit higher than the first fan. I can keep it turned off entirely. If one fan will adequately cool the engine alone, I could wire the second fan to come on with the AC. All OEM fan setups I know of have a relay that constantly runs the fan when AC is on, even with enough airflow from speed. I don't see why it's necessary over 40-45 mph though. I know the AC condensor needs some air flow at all times... I guess that's why the fan stays on when the AC is on... even when it's not really needed... a safe-guard. I seem to recall that there is a pressure build-up if the condensor gets too hot... gas won't condense and won't compress... needs to be liquid before it gets back to compressor. Not enough air flow and it won't condense...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/21/2016 at 6:32pm
You might consider a trianry switch Frank. They work perfect for both a/c and fan control. Take a look at this -  http://www.vintageair.com/DownloadsSection/Quick%20Reference%20Wiring%20Diagrams/24678-VUS%20Trinary%20Safety%20Switch%20Wiring%20Diagram.pdf

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/22/2016 at 6:47am
That works for the AC control if you don't have something similar already. I have the Renix EFI and it has a wire to activate the fan whenever the AC is on. It originally activated the small auxiliary electric fan, I had it wired to the single electric fan I was running. The trinary switch works, but a simple relay in that activates the fan when the AC is cut on works too. I think that's what the Renix wiring has, nothing computer controlled. My old AC system doesn't have a safety switch at all. When/if it ever needs recharging I'll have to consider at least a low pressure switch... definitely will if I burn up the compressor due to low pressure, but like a lot of us on here I am a bit more observant about how my car is operating. I'm smart enough to turn the AC off if it's not blowing air as cool as it should!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/05/2018 at 7:24am
Just a quick follow-up...

The twin 12" fans work great... as long as it's not much over 90 degrees outside with the AC on. Works fine as long as car is moving, but drop under 35 mph for any length of time and temp starts to creep up with AC on. Turn the AC off and everything is just fine. Between stop lights takes a long time for temp to creep up, but get stuck in traffic for over 15-20 minutes and the AC has to go! I have the fans on individual controllers so that one comes on about 5 degrees after the other. The first one to come on is also wired into the stock fan wiring, so it comes on and stays on when the AC is on. Adjusting the temp they come on lower only buys me another 5 minutes or so before AC has to be turned off in traffic. I also tried an 8" pusher fan in front in addition to the pair of 12" fans (had an 8" on hand), which helped -- buys another 15 minutes or so before AC has to be turned off. I considered a second 8" in front (no room for anything bigger), but will be pulling the Amazon sourced fans and installing a Contour twin setup this spring/summer.  I have the 8" on a toggle switch and just turn it on if it looks like I'm going to be in traffic for a while. Not sure a second 8" would help all that much due to where I would have to place it, and pushers don't work as well as pullers. Will connect the Contour fans the same way I have the Amazon fans connected, won't use the two speed resistor that the Contour has in the shroud.


Edited by farna - Jul/09/2023 at 9:04am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RTTComanche17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2018 at 12:18pm
Did you ever get the Contour set up in the car? If so, does it allow you to run the AC when it's above 90F and in traffic?

1967 Rambler American #1 - junkyard rescue parts car
1967 Rambler American #2 - project car, but it runs!...for now...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2018 at 6:17am
I haven't had time to work on my car! Got a pair of heavier duty relays so I'll have them on hand when I do. I'm using 30A relays now, and haven't had any issues, but the 40A will make me feel better with the Contour fans. I'm pretty sure they pull more than the aftermarket fans I have now.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/09/2023 at 9:20am
All this time and I didn't realize I never made a final results post!! Someone asked about what radiator and fan I was using and I pointed them to this thread. Read through to correct a few spelling errors and saw the last post didn't really say anything meaningful!

So for the last five years I've been running the Contour fans on two separate controllers. They have been working great! Engine temp doesn't get over 210-220 even on the hottest days running AC in stop and go traffic. Takes being stuck in very slow or stopped traffic to get up to 220. Most of the time the engine runs in the 180-200 range.

This is the type controller I'm using:

Instead of running the probe inside the lower hose I just have it pushed into the core. I'm sure it  would give a more accurate reading in the hose, but I set the fans according according to my engine temp gauge. 

Controller with wiring kit:

Of course you can use a screw-in temp sending unit if you have a place for it. There are radiator hose mounts for those.
Frank Swygert
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