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70 AMX alternator help
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billd View Drop Down
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Points: 30894 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/04/2020 at 4:53pm
Originally posted by BU1 BU1 wrote:

Is the factory wiring harness too cut up to let you go back to a stock alternator?  I see a factory correct voltage regulator in your pictures. Is this just there for looks?


I have made harnesses that allow a stock system to be put back. 
One or two forum members have used my wiring to put it back to stock. 
There's only a couple connections that need to be made back to the main harness, otherwise it's all between the regulator and alternator. 
You tie what I make into the main harness yellow and main harness orange - how it was originally wired. 


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http://antique-engines.com
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Points: 67 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/04/2020 at 5:13pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

Originally posted by Cookie Cookie wrote:

I was seeing ~14.35v at the battery after driving the car for about 15 minutes coming home and checking at idle.

I believe it is a ES1001C style alternator.

Top Street Performance is also a provider of these and show the claim as a 1/3 wire ability, the same as SouthWest performance.


At least I feel better knowing it wasn’t totally wired up incorrectly and I have a little more of an idea of the type of alternator and it’s functionality. 




I'm in the business of support and fixing things that go bad or wrong or that are done wrong. 
What are those that sell these "one wire" systems in the business of? Convincing more people to buy them so they make money. This is all marketing.
They market to people who know no better, don't understand the whole charging system concept and who want simple and fast without any thought. 
When you see alternators being sold as "one wire" - it's marketing, that's it. More, cool, gee-whiz, nice.

For one thing, GM never made nor sold a one-wire system. Many ran the sense wire back to the output to simplify things for tractors and ag conversions, then it started with cars - assumptions were made. 
Those sold specifically as one-wire are NOT GM. They are based on GM but GM never made a regulator for that sort of use. That means if you buy a one-wire system, you don't have a GM regulator in it and if it goes south while you are on the road, you buy a standard GM regulator and have to make that work. 

There are so many posts here on this, and there are other sites that explain it - and likely I have posted those links in the past in where somewhere. 

I'm not against GM systems (although the 10si is not any better than the stock system - that's a fact), I'm against the reasoning/justification/excuse many use and how they are wired.


I agree with you and over the past week have done a bunch of research and reading on all of it (including your stuff). I’m not saying I am happy with the system the way it is or that I support the 1 wire system. I am definitely one to lean on the side of safety, correctness, and reliability.
I am just happy that I have an idea of what was installed and how it was installed.
I am currently documenting all the current wiring and acquired some test equipment from work to find which wires are going where and then comparing it to the electrical diagrams I have of the AMX.


Edited by Cookie - Apr/04/2020 at 5:20pm
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Points: 2837 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/10/2020 at 2:47pm
It may be better to run the #2 terminal of a 10si or the S terminal of a CS130 to a place where you want to sense the voltage but may not be necessary. I've seen on GM cars that terminal jumpered directly to the alternator output post, factory wiring and without modifications.
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