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York Compressor Gasket Kits

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ramblinrev View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2015 at 8:45am
Cam:
Chevy's did not use York's unless it was an aftermarket application. Ford and AMC/Jeep used them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dogbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2015 at 8:54am
Good info on A/C units. The York units I've had in the past always worked well. Had one on an old 4cyl. watercooled VW (still have it)and it would freeze you out. The downside was when it clicked on it was like you lost two cylinders.

The new cars are using 134a and they seem to cool well. Are they using more efficient components, or what makes them work better? My truck that was changed over from R-12 would only cool decently when running down the interstate. Sit long at a red light and it was blowing air, but not cold air.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CamJam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2015 at 9:50am
Originally posted by ramblinrev ramblinrev wrote:

Cam:
Chevy's did not use York's unless it was an aftermarket application. Ford and AMC/Jeep used them.

Correct...  my mistake.  I saw that post on a Chevy site and assumed they were,  as they were used by just about everyone, even Mazda and Mercedes for a time. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mr. Ed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2015 at 10:25am
I beg to differ with you Ross. According to my PT (pressure temperature) chart, R-134a is only slightly higher than R-12 which is why it has found a niche market replacing medium temperature applications. It sucks at low temperature applications. As an example, R-12 at 120º F is 157.3#. R-134a at the same conditions is 171.2#.

As while it is true that the bag holding the medium might have broken, the filtering media that is used in the can, molecular sieve, is stupid. It doesn't know what refrigerant is running through it. And it might also be used up since it has been seeing refrigerant that has possibly been moist. You cannot clean molecular sieve or activated alumina, the media used to remove acid, which you won't have in an automotive system since acid is a by-product of electric motors in a hermetic system such as your home.

The only difficulty might be that the cylinders of R-134a that you buy in the parts houses might have the new 134a automotive fittings.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CamJam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2015 at 11:07pm
On the left is the head gasket from the Auto Zone kit (Santech brand) and on the right is a head gasket I took out of a 1974 York compressor.  Not sure if there are differences between '69 and '74 because I don't have a '69 compressor to compare it with, but as you can see it's a match for the '74.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mr. Ed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/30/2015 at 8:28am
The York compressors went unchanged for many years. I even saw them with huge pulleys on them for A/C chiller applications with multiple compressors. I actually took two off of a chiller and store them for years if I ever needed them. I junked them when I moved 29 years ago.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401MATCOUPE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/30/2015 at 4:31pm
Originally posted by Mr. Ed Mr. Ed wrote:

I beg to differ with you Ross. According to my PT (pressure temperature) chart, R-134a is only slightly higher than R-12 which is why it has found a niche market replacing medium temperature applications. It sucks at low temperature applications. As an example, R-12 at 120º F is 157.3#. R-134a at the same conditions is 171.2#.

As while it is true that the bag holding the medium might have broken, the filtering media that is used in the can, molecular sieve, is stupid. It doesn't know what refrigerant is running through it. And it might also be used up since it has been seeing refrigerant that has possibly been moist. You cannot clean molecular sieve or activated alumina, the media used to remove acid, which you won't have in an automotive system since acid is a by-product of electric motors in a hermetic system such as your home.



The only difficulty might be that the cylinders of R-134a that you buy in the parts houses might have the new 134a automotive fittings.

Later!
Mr. Ed

Ed.....I beg to differ with you begging to differ from me!!!!!! ,on the Pressure/Temp Relationships.  I was always taught that a rough rule of thumb was the High Side Pressure should be about 100 psi higher then ambient temp...so if the Ambient was 90 deg F, then the High side should be approx 190 PSI.  So just to verify what I remembered from Automotive A/C school, I checked my book.  It totally follows what I previously state.  As a matter of fact I have put a copy of it below and I am not sure about the numbers you quoted (120 deg F equals 157 psi), for my book says at 120 deg F, the high side range is 310-370 PSI.  Interestingly in the same book the R-134a Pressure/Temperature Relationships almost mirror the R-12, but are grouped differently for some reason....however, my experience in Automotive R-134a, is the pressures are much higher (as I stated before) when comparing a factory R-12 car that has been converted to R-134a...additionally the R-134a conversions MUST have more cooling air moving through the Condenser to have near the same cooling effect as R-12.....so in simple terms R-134a is a poor performer at slow speeds, like in heavy traffic....in comparison to R-12.   I know you are in the Commercial A/C Sales side, are you sure your numbers were not from R-22 or other non-automotive Freon....I have no data on those systems and have never worked on residential/commercial A/C units.

Help me understand how our information can be so different........

Ross K. Peterson
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mr. Ed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/31/2015 at 8:00am
Looking at the charts you posted, the R-12 P/T match the ones on my DuPont P/T chart. The R-134a ratings are significantly different than those on my chart.

But it is clear that the ratings on the high side are calculated on the condensing temperature which it appears in the case of an automobile is 100º above the temperature entering the condenser. Residential and commercial air conditioning is based on a 30º TD (temperature difference) between the entering air and the condensing temperature. That is a huge difference and explains why it appeared to me that your pressures were too high. But if we apply that same TD to R-12, it is still only slightly lower than R-134a. When you say high pressure refrigerants, I automatically think of R-410a which is truly a high pressure when you compare the 274# pressure for R-22 at 125º CT versus 442# pressure for R-410a at 125º CT.

Using your information, I bow to your answer.

And I got my gasket set yesterday. Wow! A lot of stuff in there! If you tried to buy them separately, it would cost a lot of money.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dogbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/31/2015 at 11:03am
So the question still remains. On my 64 with a rebuilt York compressor what can I do to increase it's efficiency so that it gets back to cooling like it should? Mine has the "weather eye" with the desert only setting and I'd like to think I can put it back so that the desert only setting still works. I have the original cond. and evap. should I swap out the cond. with a more modern design? What remedy is available?
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