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remove driving shaft 1966 american

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DG Racing View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DG Racing Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: remove driving shaft 1966 american
    Posted: Oct/23/2016 at 8:47pm
Hy i want to remove the driveshaft on my 1966 American but on the diff. there is no clamp that holds the universel joint but on the York there is a big nut near the seal

I never seen  that in my life loll

Need help thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74gremx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/23/2016 at 9:44pm
1964 and 1965's had the nut and not Uni joint u bolts. You need two big spanners as they are tightened to 300 ft lbs. The tsm explains it
1970 Javelin 360/727
1974 Levis Gremlin X 304/904
1964 American Convertible
1974 Matador wagon (parts)
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2014 Holden Colorado
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/23/2016 at 10:13pm
You can take the u-joint apart.

The u-joint bearing caps are held in by c-clips,  clean the u-joint off and you'll see them.

You remove both clips,  beat one cap inward with a brass punch until the cap on the other side falls out,  then you've got enough room to work the crossbar of the u-joint out of the bearing cap holder.

I've never understood why people insist on using the 2 big wrenches, when it comes apart so easily.   If you've worked on many old cars, or trucks, this system is nothing unusual.
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2016 at 12:26am
what's your larger goal? pull transmission? or axle? Ujoints?

to get at the transmission, you can simply leave the big-nut on, and pull the rear axle back and the yoke will pull out.

i actually bought the two GIANT wrenches necesseary. by all rights you need the car on the lift to tighten it. on my 610-american-turned-roadster i cut a large access hole into the floor. it'd be under the rear seat. made a steel cover the screws on. dont know why the factory didnt do that.

to be blunt it is flatly impossible to wrench the big-nut axle with it in the car and car on the ground or even on ramps or jackstands. the wrenches are 30" long, and it takes jumping on 'em to get 300 ft/lbs.


1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2016 at 6:30am
Oh I've done it with the car on ramps, but I was much younger and would rather not! If the nut isn't really tight the car WILL sling the driveshaft out... I know from experience! I never messed with the big nut again once I had it on again. Took losing the driveshaft twice in a 2-3 week period to learn that lesson! That was my first 61-63 American, drove one for nearly 20 years after that, always disassembled the u-joint. That's easier to me than loosening the u-bolts that hold the axle on and sliding the axle back.

It's tough to get the u-joint out laying on your back under the car, but easier than loosening/tightening that nut. You want to take the caps out of the rear axle yoke, not the shaft yoke. Jack the car up by the rear axle then support the body with jack stands so that the rear wheels are off the ground when they hang down if possible. If you support the axle or use stands under the axle you won't have much room around the floor. If your stands aren't tall enough to hold the axle off the ground, put a jack under one side of the axle and lift just enough to get one wheel off the ground. Then (with trans in neutral) you can rotate that wheel and the driveshaft.

If you need to replace the front u-joint (the one that wears most) remove the shaft as above. I'd go ahead and replace the rear while the shaft is out, but you can reuse the rear as long as you're careful with the caps once removed. Make sure all the needle bearings are in place when installing.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pacerman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2016 at 7:53pm
Tyrodtom is correct, but more explicitly the c-clips are INTERNAL clips, and not the normal external clips that you see on most u-joints these days.  Get a bright light.  I have removed them with a hammer ans small flat blade screwdriver.  Replacing them after the repair is tedious but do-able.  Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DG Racing Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2016 at 9:13pm
Ok thanks to everybody  I will remove it the easiest way  
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