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wallus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wallus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/21/2017 at 2:26pm
Yes, that is for sure. The simpler times are gone Cry . So let's keep these old buggies going for as long as we canBeer.
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chasces View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chasces Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/27/2017 at 10:41am
Does anyone know the shop time estimate to pull a 232 and put a new one in for a 1966 classic?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/27/2017 at 11:14am
I remember a few things you will have to do,

You need two inch rectangular tubing blocks over your engine mounts and drill holes to locate.
Exhaust flange is two hole rather than three hole and it gets relocated an inch or two.
Rad needs mounting flanges reversed or use newer rad and a little tin rework at the bottom.
Carb linkage location changes. From 1V to 2V the direction is reversed needing bellcrank rework.
Probably there will be generator or alternator mounting differences.
Extra fuel line required.
Bell housing and starter issues have already been discussed. Use the 196 starter because 232 starter is canted over into the gas pedal linkage (if same as 64).

At $100 an hour I'd say a shop will charge you maybe $1500 or more.

Normally this type of work gets done by hobbyists because taking it to a shop is usually cost prohibitive.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/27/2017 at 11:15am
Oh, 232 to a 232? Less than above but you never know these days.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/28/2017 at 6:00am
A simple R&R like that shouldn't take more than 4-5 hours for an experienced shop, maybe six. Not sure what the book time is. This is assuming an auto trans and leaving trans in the car. Will take about another hour for a manual car because the rear axle needs to come loose and brakes bled when reassembled.

NEVER let a shop jack or pull the rear axle back to disconnect the torque tube. Damage to brake lines, shock, and panhard bar can occur. Disconnect park brake, rubber brake line, shocks, and panhard bar. Then just jack the body up by the rear bumper (or in front of rear wheels, or on a lift) and the rear axle and springs just fall out. Pull the four bolts holding torque tube to trans and roll back axle. It might be stuck, as the yoke doesn't move, but a good pull/shove will pull it off. Nothing but the four bolts up front and mentioned items in back holding it in.
Frank Swygert
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