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I guess I'm the new guy

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pacerman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pacerman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/02/2017 at 3:05pm
Okay you made me pull out the 64 and 65 American TSMs.  Actually, glad to do it.  The 64 TSM does not show a picture of the circuit board.  The 65 TSM does show it on page 22 in the electrical section and I am confident we are talking about the same two prongs/studs.  There must be a conductor between them  The factory inserted that radio noise suppressor (wire wrapped thingy) for cars with radios in that position.  For strippers with no radio, there was a copper connector between the prongs.  Why would they have done that unless it was to complete the circuit?  Actually I think I have tested a circuit board with no connector in the past and there was no joy thoughout the circuit.  Joe
Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/02/2017 at 4:02pm
Yeah, that missing has probably been your problem! Just get a short piece of solid copper wire (a small one is fine) and strip enough to make at least 3-4 turns around each stud. If it's a real small wire won't hurt to double it. If it's not big enough the worst that will happen is it gets hot and breaks, which will kill power to the board, but nothing else. Not a good thing if you're away from home though! I say solid wire because it will wrap on the studs easier than stranded wire. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kennedy9154 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2017 at 1:03pm
Well, I put it back together and the temp and gas hands still dont work...and now my generator light is on. When I ground the temp wire at the sensor, nothing happens, but if I hook it to the hot terminal, it rises VERY slowly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kennedy9154 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2017 at 11:22pm
Im wondering if I might have the regulator hooked up backwards. I put it back like the previous owner had it, but that doesnt mean it was right.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/05/2017 at 6:24am
Could be. I've never tried hooking the sending unit wire to power, since I know it's a ground... I'd definitely check the regulator and make sure it's putting out 5V and connected properly. With the regulator lying on it's back (flat so the little hole above can be used to mount it on a flat surface) and the mounting hole at the top, the left side should be 12V input (can be up to 35V, has to be over 5V), center leg ground (which is also connected to the mounting tab, so if the mounting tab is screwed to a grounded surface you can cut the center leg off), and right leg the output (5.00-5.25V... doesn't matter if it's slightly over 5V).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kennedy9154 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/05/2017 at 7:01am
Ok, now, the 2 holes that these wires get attached to. Looking up under the dash at the circuit board from the floor of the car...the 12v in I have is on the left, and a bit higher than the 5v out, on the right...is this correct? If it is, Im back to square 1, if not, I can fix it in 5 minutes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kennedy9154 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2017 at 2:02am
Finally got the temperature gauge working. The sending unit was bad. Gas gauge still doesnt work, so I guess Im gonna be dropping the tank this weekend for the same problem. Generator light is on now. Can anyone offer any thoughts or suggestions on that? It is a 1 wire Im pretty sure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2017 at 6:54am
If you ground the wire from the sending unit to the tank the gauge should go to full, just like the temp gauge. You will likely have to replace the sending unit in the tank. See the last post in this thread:
http://theamcforum.com/forum/replacement-rambler-gas-tank-1959-big-car_topic67312.html

With a one-wire alternator (GM -- the one wire is just a large one to the battery) you should have no light. Look at the alternator, there should be a large wire to the battery then a pair of small wires... if it's a standard GM type. It may be a Motorola, which is wired differently. On the standard GM type, one of those wires is switched 12V to excite the alternator, the other goes to the dash light. The light on usually means their is an internal problem with the alternator. The Motorola alternator (factory option) has an external regulator which could be bad, or one of the diodes on the back could be out. You will need to get the alternator (or generator, if it has one of those) checked out.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Kennedy9154 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2017 at 9:43am
Hey farna...I want to take a minute to thank you and everyone else who have been following this and offering tips. You always seem to be around with some helpful advice. This stuff is very frustrating to us newbies, but with folks like you around, we might just be OK somewhere down the road, and actually get to drive the cars you help us figure out
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/09/2017 at 6:31am
That's what I'm here for!! (well, WE ARE-- I'm not the only one...)
I don't typically post unless I can add something, and I'm sure there are many who read this and don't for the same reason. I just happened to post first.
Frank Swygert
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