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Lowering plate issue 59 rambler |
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Rambler Dan
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/27/2017 Location: Lancaster, NY Status: Offline Points: 102 |
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Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 5:32pm |
Hi all
I made the lowering plates that are diagram in the sticky thread about them. Only issue Is on 59 rambler, big car not the american, once I go amd put the tire back on the tie rod end hits the rim before it will seat all the way. Made the plates as described. The 4 threaded holes bolts the plate to the upright amd than rebolted the spindle. I used all new grade 8 bolts as well. The only way I can ge the tire on is if I were to put at least a 3/4 spacer between the brake drum and rim. Don't really want to have to do this. It is stock drum and a stock wheel. Thanks. |
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Ramblage
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/29/2008 Location: Fresno, Ca Status: Offline Points: 706 |
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Had the same problem too on my 60 rambler big car also. The only way I see it working with a stock rim is space it out like you said which would look goofy or install a bigger rim which I haven’t done yet. I just went back to the stock setup until I get new rims
Edited by Ramblage - Jan/14/2018 at 12:04pm |
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1960 Customized Land Barge Rambler Super with Dodge 360 & 5spd
1971 Silver Bullet Javelin w/232 Engyne! 1972 Crappy Green Javelin w/401 and AW4, still in the works |
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7522 |
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the early car geometries are different than the 70's cars for which those plates are mostly used. specifically the steering arms, ackerman angle and the peculiar location of the outer tie rod end, tucked up inside the wheel. you more or less must go to a bigger diameter wheel to clear the ball of the tie rod end.
even putting 15" alloy wheels on the front of my 63 american (small car, but same issue) interfered, simply because the wheel metal is thicker and wider. spacers more than 1/4" will cause geometry problems in other areas, as it moves the tire scrub patch outward. if it's just a sunday driver you wont notice any effects, but much more than that and tyou run of of wheel lug threads. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19612 |
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The 58-63 American tucks the outer tie-rod end right between the drum and inside of the rim -- much further out than the big cars. I'm actually surprised to hear that the big cars are out enough to interfere with lowering plates.
You can space the spindle out with longer grade 8 bolts and grade 8 washers and/or nuts as spacers. I have a 1/2" nut and a washer or two on my car pushing the spindle out, have been running it like that since 2003. I did it so I could run the same wheels on front as in back, have to use deep wheels on the Jag IRS I have (instead of trying to narrow it). All you're doing is extending the mounting surface. As long as the bolts are tight it's perfectly safe. I discussed that with one of the USAF civil engineers I worked with before I did it, if that eases anyone's mind... |
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Frank Swygert
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Rambler Dan
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/27/2017 Location: Lancaster, NY Status: Offline Points: 102 |
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Farna thanks. I thought about machining a plate that was the width I needed and mounting between lowering plate and backing plate/spindle to move everything out. I was curious about what issues I may run into moving each front wheel out 1 1/4" total. my 1/2 lowering plate and a 3/4 spacer plate to clear the tie rod end.
Already sounds like you've done it and haven't had any issues. Thanks thinking that's the route I may go. |
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7522 |
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i agree, farna's spacer idea is totally sound. but 1.25" is a lot of spacer. that will mess up alignment, tire scrub, and stress parts. i'd find another solution.
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19612 |
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Mine are only 3/4" out, plus a 1/8" wheel spacer. But I've got 5.5" deep 7" wheels too. I spaced out for the depth of the wheel, as stated in my earlier post. Well, it's out the ~3/8" thickness of the caliper bracket also... so that's 1.25" total. That might be causing the bit of wheel scrub I get on really sharp turns -- like full lock. Below that it's not noticeable except in reverse -- probably because toe is out when in reverse though. No affect on handling or tire wear in normal driving. Hmmm... I'm probably turning sharper when backing out of a parking space (and going in) than anywhere else, probably why I seem to notice a little tire scrub then. Of course I changed the entire geometry of my steering when I made my own steering arms and adapted a late model T-bird rack and pinion, so the spacing may have little to do with it.
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Frank Swygert
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