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Troubleshooting my 304

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one bad rambler View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote one bad rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/16/2018 at 8:27pm
He`s checking the timing right with that light...set your total advance with the light and adjust your mark to zero....at full advance of coarse
68 AMX 390 4 Speed,68 American,64 American 2 Door Wagon Altered Wheelbase,78 Concord Build 360,727,8.8
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232jav3sp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 232jav3sp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/16/2018 at 8:57pm
Originally posted by one bad rambler one bad rambler wrote:

He`s checking the timing right with that light...set your total advance with the light and adjust your mark to zero....at full advance of coarse



Correct. It was my interpretation that he was setting the light to that and checking at idle.

Edited by 232jav3sp - Jan/17/2018 at 1:00pm
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Boris Badanov View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/17/2018 at 6:08am
Try disconnecting the EGR and driving it.
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sweetevil28 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweetevil28 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/20/2018 at 12:30pm
Not the EGR and the Distro gear looks fine. Choke is good to go. Reset timing, 750rpm warm in park is now 17 degrees. I don't think it's a vac leak as i've checked with carb cleaner the Brake booster, whole intake, EGR, Carb & carb ports. The 8th and maybe 6h Cyl has a tick that's pronounced at the header. Would the timing chain being off a tooth cause that? Anything else i can look for in reference to the timing chain being off a toof before I take the whole front end off? Not finding anything on the Youtubes. 
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sweetevil28 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweetevil28 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/21/2018 at 10:44am
Found this: A quick little visual test is to pull the driver's valve cover and watch #1 valves as you approach TDC on overlap. Unless you have odd cam timing or a major split in duration and lift, the 2 valves should be pretty close in the amount they are open at TDC. If the exhaust valve closes before TDC the cam is way advanced, if the intake valve doesn't start to open until after TDC the cam is way retarded. This test is by no means a replacement for a degree wheel, but can be a quick visual during the initial diagnosis. 

Being off a tooth will also affect compression test numbers. Excessive cam advance will show as unrealistically high compression test numbers on a big cam by closing the intake valve sooner after the piston has passed BDC.

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rockAMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/21/2018 at 12:41pm
Tick noise is probably just a blown header gasket. That would not be the cause of the idling problems. Did you rebuild the carb or have it rebuilt?
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sweetevil28 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweetevil28 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/21/2018 at 12:49pm
I did the carb rebuild. I know it’s tight. I have the kit for it but I’ve not switched any pins or jets yet.
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Lyle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lyle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/21/2018 at 1:20pm
For the "tick" at #6 try taking the dip stick out while running to see if the noise goes away. Doesn't take much misalignment of the dip stick tube to have the end of the dip stick just touching the crankshaft. 
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