spindles - will these work, and other questions

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   This is were I cheated Bill,I made splash shields out of flat 18 gauge the diameter of the rotor less the caliper area, used a bead roller to impress a stiffening groove 1" in from the outer edge, outer edge is sharp (no 90°) and mounted it between the spindle and caliper bracket.
This is not fancy or authentic but functional. That 90° flange just rots out anyway and does not let cool air or debris come out anyway. 
This does keep water from splashing, rotor cool and dust moving.
Didn't see a down side of this modification but welcome opinion, and criticism if fact based. 

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Lyle Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lyle Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Mar/19/2018 at 9:16pm
	This is were I cheated Bill, I made splash shields out of flat 18 gauge the diameter of the rotor less the caliper area, used a bead roller to impress a stiffening groove 1" in from the outer edge, outer edge is sharp (no 90°) and mounted it between the spindle and caliper bracket. This is not fancy or authentic but functional. That 90° flange just rots out anyway and does not let cool air or debris come out anyway. This does keep water from splashing, rotor cool and dust moving. Didn't see a down side of this modification but welcome opinion, and criticism if fact based.

billd Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894	Post Options Post Reply Quote billd Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Mar/19/2018 at 10:06pm
	On this car I want functional - it's not a pristine original concourse trailer queen. I want original where I can, but something like the splash shield I'd take functional over totally original - especially since original isn't in the cards from what I can tell. I have no metal-working tools at all - short of some aviation snips, and a power hack saw and a chop saw and welder. I have no brake, no bead roller, nothing like that. (If I did, and if I knew squat about sheet metal work, I'd likely have something half-started by now) If it allows air, cooling, prevents debris, and keeps water off- which is the main point since water causes braking issues, especially if one side is wet and the other not - then it can't be all bad.
	http://theamcpages.com http://antique-engines.com

tomj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544	Post Options Post Reply Quote tomj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Mar/20/2018 at 11:33pm
	i have run disc brakes for more than a decade without a splash shield at all, for the reasons you all state. 63 classic, hte 63 american and this 61 american. though i'm in los angeles, i drive the entire southwest, and not had an issue. the only contaminant i worry about is grease. of course there's no salt here, but if there's a traffic-driven cloud of water just off the roadway no shield will keep the back side of the disc dry.
	1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto 1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com

billd Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894	Post Options Post Reply Quote billd Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Mar/21/2018 at 6:36am
	Worked on too many brakes - for the general public, Altoona police, Iowa Highway Patrol, etc. and spent too many weeks/months in classes on brakes to want to go long-term without those parts. There's a reason the car makers spent money on them and I've seen cars over years........... As far as "traffic-driven cloud" - that's not my concern - that's more for keeping the windshield and sides of your car clean. I'm talking of what your own car does. Those are also "sacrificial" - meaning they take the heat as far as environmental issues when a car is sitting - ever seen a car that has sat for years without 'em compared to one with? The rotors rust far worse without them. When the car is on the highway the rotors act exactly like the "fan" in your shop vac, similar to a squirrel-cage fan. They throw air out the edges creating a decent low pressure area in the middle - pulling in the air and anything else it carries into the center of the rotor. So if you have shields, there's less chance of water getting to the rotors. I've also experienced brakes when you need to stop soon and straight and ONE SIDE is wet - disks are actually a bit worse, IMO, than drums for that issue (another case for shields) Then of course after a dry spell, no rain, then you suddenly get a decent rain, all the OILS and road contamination are floating on the water - so you get oily messy water, not clean pure rain water. This is why our roads are very slick after the first rain following a dry spell - you are driving on the oils and gunk left on the roads that floats up. And that gets to the rotors........ Anyway I will have to get by without SHORT TERM but will absolutely look to get a pair ASAP - either originals or have someone make a pair. I can handle short-term without - and really have NO CHOICE - but I WILL be looking for shields. My training and ongoing Ford and GM training tells me I should for best safety.
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