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1971 401 stalling issue

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PHAT69AMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2018 at 7:37pm
"SUSPECT" 8" long piece 5/16" FUEL HOSE: 
Way back there was mentioned "replacing old rotted or dry rotted parts"...
A possible out-of-sight "suspect" Rubber Fuel System Piece-Part...
A short, about 8" long, piece of 47 Year Old 5/16" Rubber Fuel Hose...
Under the car in the back probably above the differential there is
a short approx 8" long piece of 5/16" Rubber Fuel Hose that connects
between the steel Frame Rail Fuel Suction Line and the Tank Sending Unit.
Probably a good idea to replace it, could allow pump to suck air
even though it is NOT leaking any fuel, or even sucking down closed... (see picture)
Exacerbated by all the Ethanol in modern Gasoline and Old Rubber Fuel Hose...

Was it already mentioned probably a good idea to Purge the Fuel Line ?
After replacing that short Hose, if you decide to do so, I'd Purge maybe
a gallon or two to "volume flush" the Line and see how the gasoline looks.
Then maybe use it in the lawnmower.

Intend to eventually post some additional answers to previous questions.




Edited by PHAT69AMX - May/12/2018 at 11:27pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2018 at 11:19pm
imho this may be WHY you are seeing FUEL out of the ACCELERATOR PUMP ROD
and it is caused by "SLOWLY" LEAKING MAIN FUEL INLET NEEDLE(s)...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2018 at 2:00pm
Manifold Vacuum:  At Idle, would say 20 inches +/- once dialed-in.
From best I can tell front passenger side is the Manifold Vacuum Carb Nipple and
the front driver's side is the Ported Vacuum Carb Nipple ( for Vacuum Advance ).

VACUUM ADVANCE CANISTER "Test":
There is a way to "Test" the Vacuum Advance Canister.
Remove the Distributor Cap and Hose from the Vac Adv.
From INSIDE the Distributor, push the ROD into/towards the Canister.
Place a finger firmly onto the end of the Canister Hose Nipple.
Release the depressed ROD inside the Distributor.
The ROD should stay in place, not move, until finger is removed.
That confirms the Canister Diaphragm is good, holds a vacuum.
There should also be a number Stamped on the Canister Mounting Flange.
That Stamped number will indicate what Vacuum Advance Canister it is.
If ya want, remove the Rotor Button (2 screws), the take an post
a Distributor picture so we can see how it looks and what's in there.

PRESERVATION:
Everyone has different opinions and interest.
That is a pretty rare car, if ya can keep EVERYTHING
from it that you can and bag and tag if small pieces.
When Carb was Re-Build, hope the original -TAG- was kept... 
Stamped aluminum... and has a Build DATE CODE on it...
Hope you got that piece back with carb rebuild if it was there...
And the aluminum "Engine Tag" on the end of a Valve Cover.
Insignificant yet significant these little things are...
In the long run they add significantly to the VALUE.

PRESERVATION II:
Only a suggestion, but it makes a huge difference over time imho.
From visible fresh mild surface rust on re-built carburetor screws.
Get some WD-40, the 1 gallon can at Lowe's is the best deal.
Get some Dollar Store small Model or Art Paint Brushes.
Mix some WD-40 and a little motor oil in a cup.
Go around and apply a little to all screw heads, plated pieces,
aluminum, Vac Advance Canister, etc.  Paper towel or small brush.
Let dry or wipe off excess.  Do quarterly or couple times a year.
This will prevent the apparently recently formed dreaded light
surface rust visible on carb screws in the 1st posted picture.
From the pictures and condition it appears to have been garaged
and climate controlled, WD-40 helps alot if it still is or not.
Some folks spray down the entire bottom of the car.

1973 401 Auto AutoLite CARB TAG for ref,
1st digit would be "1" for a 1971 model:




Bummer the factory ram-air assy is awol, I made a low cost version for my '69 car,
since your hood already has the round whole insert panel this could work and the
carb would only draw cooler outside air instead of hot engine compartment air.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2018 at 2:29pm
Possible source for info, answers, input, references, parts, contacts, etc:

Looks like the Hoosier AMC Club is fairly close.

At National Trail Raceway, East of Columbus, Hebron OH, there is "GAD", Great AMC Day,
GAD XVII - Great AMC Day 17
Friday, May 25, 2018     9 AM to 4 PM at National Trail Raceway, Hebron OH
Contact: Mike Luke (740) 929-1300 daytime, or (740) 929-4951 evening for additional info
( I think this info is correct, but not guaranteed... )

And as mentioned in the other thread, next weekend in
Springfield OH - May 25 thru 27, 2018
20th Annual AMC Family Meet, Clark County Fairgrounds

And, if I may, found this 2016 Picture on the Ohio AMC Club web site:





Edited by PHAT69AMX - May/16/2018 at 6:31pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sidefx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/27/2018 at 9:44am
Been away from the car for the past few weeks due to unfinished house projects.

I think I’m just going to buy the new Holley after taking to Chris’ carb shop. The 4300 to him has too many issues to keep on any car.

What source would be the best to hook the electric choke up to? And as for the heat tubes on the intake I assume I can just weld up both ports?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2018 at 1:28pm
CHOKE POWER:
Run a Fused Wire to a Fuse Block Switched 12 Volt Spade.

CHOKE STOVE TUBES:
Yes, can weld up the 2 holes if no desire to "go back".
Left open as-is shouldn't matter -IF- Stove Tube is good (no holes).
Stove Tube Bolts can be a bear.
Junkyard Jeep or Waggy, get another, modify it, swap out, (gasket).
2 Types, get matching type obviously, 1971 type might be scarce...
Stove Flange Shape changed between with and w/o EGR pretty sure...
Or drill and grinder, some metal, a Gasket, and make a Blank Block Off Plate. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sidefx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/02/2018 at 8:03am
*** UPDATE ***

It's been slow having to finish things around the house and traveling for work...

I got the Holley installed and it was running great. I noticed that it was hard to hold a steady fuel pressure and it would sometimes drop very low. I contacted Jegs and they provided a replacement regulator, I haven't had a chance to test it out just yet.

I made a pretty big mistake... While I was waiting for the regulator I went to install my Petronix kit on the distributor. When I went back to install it onto the engine I was messing with it for 15 minutes and thought I had it fully seated. When I turned the engine over I then heard a grinding noise. What happened was the distributor was not fully seated and the spinning of the engine spun it and then it dropped into place. So now the timing is completely off... It looks like you can do a check holding a finger over cylinder #1 while cranking. 

On a side note where are the timing marks?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DocLong Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/27/2019 at 4:39am
Originally posted by sidefx sidefx wrote:

I wouldn’t doubt it we have a lot of neat cars between Dayton and Cincinnati... 

Does it say where he lives? The cars and coffee we have at Austin landing draws around 700-800 cars , one of the largest.

Draws repo trucks too...yeah... I'm that guy. 

Searched Dayton and found this. Hoping to get my 65 classic down there this summer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote V8Mart Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2019 at 3:42pm
I had similar symptoms with my 304 sportabout. Here in UK we have very poor fuel quality and are struggling with the amount of ethanol used (supposed to be only E5 but have my doubts) I found the fuel was drying out my float valve and causing it to stick closed (new carb) and not allowing any fuel into the carb/filter or fuel line due to the air being trapped under pressure, but not enough pressure to unseat the valve. I t would release by itself and run ok for a while, but gave problems after resting up a while. I had the same problem with a Ford Maverick I had, old carb , new carb, new valve and seat for new carb. Someone told me to add a little engine oil to the fuel tank to keep seat lubricated...might be a co-incidence, but it seems to be ok for now
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote turbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2019 at 4:01pm
Your mistake was changing to electronic ignition before you fixed the first problem.  You shouldn't be messing with multiple things at the same time.
they call me Capt RETIRED!
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