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Brake Lights Not Working

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billd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/04/2018 at 7:51am
Don't cobble it with a switch not meant for brake lights. If you are going to convert to a pedal operated switch, get a BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH.
I've seen too many put a N.O. (normally open) switch from like RadioShack or some other place and then forever fight it to get it adjusted so it's OFF when the pedal is up.
The reason is, is that other switches are short stroke. It takes a tiny bit to trigger them. So as things wear, or if your pedal is a tad loose, you go in the house and come out the next day to find a dead battery because the brake lights stayed on. You tweak it to get them off, hit a bump, etc........
Anyway, this is too important (safety and LEGALLY) to cobble with "just get a switch". We aren't that sort of a forum.
You can go to eBay, any parts store, AMC SWAP MEETS like at Cordova, AMO events and so on and find good CORRECT brake light switches for any sort of AMC - or other cars for that matter.
In fact I was just at the AMO event and found BRAKE LIGHT SWITCHES for older cars laying on tarps for a buck or two - some with brackets.
You can get NEW with generic brackets cheap.
OR, I have some NOS (New, Old Stock) switches with long levers that would be great because they have a long stroke - easy to adjust to make them go off, but allow them to come on as soon as the pedal is pressed 1/8"

So you can go buy a kit with switch and bracket and do it right, or cobble it with a simple N.O. pushbutton and fight keeping it adjusted
I opt for doing it RIGHT because brake lights are a fair load on a switch, and if you get a cheap push button switch, it may not handle the load.

Please, these are brake lights, safety items, and you need them legally, do it right. Either replace the original with a correct type, OR convert with a proper bracket and proper brake light switch. 
You can find them easily - do a search and you will see.

When I did my Eagle 4.0 conversion, I hated the original AMC brake light switch - a Ford type - that operated on the end of the master cylinder push rod, on the pedal arm. I hate those.
Well, I wanted cruise control, too - and the Jeeps use a dual-circuit switch. One for the brake lights, the other for the cruise.
I cut the bracket carefully from the jeep, made a way to mount the bracket for the Jeep switch under the dash of my Eagle and now have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee brake light switch in my Eagle - and it operates the brake lights and the cruise perfectly.

and my Eagle is TIGHT under the dash........... it just shows that it's simple to put a correct actual, by-golly gosh real proper brake light switch on the pedal and not compromise.

And correct switches are a piece of cake to ADJUST, and will indeed handle the LOAD of those bulbs.

Trust me, it will be a lot easier if you use a correct switch. 
Some get by with cobbling in an ordinary push button switch but for the non-pro, I recommend correct part since they are CHEAP and EASILY FOUND.
Amazon, eBay, O'Reilly's, NAPA, AutoZone, etc.  - in this case, Google is your friend (ugh, I hate saying that knowing what I know about them)

If interested, I could see what I have for old Rambler switches, too - not the pressure type, but the other. No guarantees as sometimes I forget what I do and don't have or use something and forget I used it.
If you were close, I'd say bring it over and I'd have it fixed in short order (for free) with a new style switch, properly done, easy to adjust, and reliable. 


Edited by billd - Jul/04/2018 at 7:54am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/05/2018 at 5:39am
What I actually used in my car is indeed a brake light switch -- from a 60s Javelin IIRC. Your comments on using a generic switch are right on -- a short stroke switch would be harder to adjust, though I do know a few who have used them.

I use this one:

It's a $2.14-$7.09 switch, plus shipping at Rock Auto, or $10.95 with free shipping on e-bay... about the same price as RA after shipping. IIRC I got one out of a parts car for free... was a long time ago!




































Frank Swygert
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66Mike View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 66Mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/10/2018 at 8:52am
thanks to all who commented, it helped a lot to get everyone's thoughts on how to address the problem.
I found the issue was a wire to the hydraulic brake switch at the master cylinder. A corroded wire connector.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matty 401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/10/2018 at 12:09pm
something easy   
72 matador 401 the beast
79 concord 2 door
72 matador 304 grasshopper
68 Rogue 406
93 Cherokee 4.0 5 speed

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