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Pro-Gram Engineering Caps for a 401

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PROSTOCKTOM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PROSTOCKTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/17/2019 at 2:47am
Originally posted by Brad Brad wrote:

I wonder what it would cost ( ballpark) to buy the caps and have the machine work done? I'm guessing it would add $1000-$1500 to the cost of building an engine? Or more? 
Retail on all 5 caps with shipping is $850, $150+ for ARP studs and bolts, $600 to fit the caps and align bore the block from the shop that does my block work. So $1600 plus the cost of a 401 block.

Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/17/2019 at 10:42am
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Originally posted by Brad Brad wrote:

I wonder what it would cost ( ballpark) to buy the caps and have the machine work done? I'm guessing it would add $1000-$1500 to the cost of building an engine? Or more? 


$1000+ to machine a block for extra bolt holes, and true up the main bores? I doubt it costs that much.

I guess your adding the cost of the kit. My kit when I bought it, costed over $500.00 for everything with ARP studs kit, minus the rear main. Which would have put it near $750.00


Yes I meant including the caps . Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote DragRacingSpirit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/18/2019 at 12:18pm
Originally posted by PROSTOCKTOM PROSTOCKTOM wrote:

Originally posted by Brad Brad wrote:

I wonder what it would cost ( ballpark) to buy the caps and have the machine work done? I'm guessing it would add $1000-$1500 to the cost of building an engine? Or more? 
Retail on all 5 caps with shipping is $850, $150+ for ARP studs and bolts, $600 to fit the caps and align bore the block from the shop that does my block work. So $1600 plus the cost of a 401 block.

Tom


My current build that I have run 8.90's with has the 5 program main caps, I thought it would be a prudent upgrade at that power level.

My old motor that I ran 9.40's with was 2 bolt block with main studs and after 3 years running the old motor shifting at 7500rpm, the main bearings were perfect when I pulled it out and tore it down.

For the cost/expense/time involved I would not do a factory block again. Just buy the Indy block and be done with it.
Best 1/4 mile 8.99, 1/8 mile 5.71, 60 foot 1.27, no power adders
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PROSTOCKTOM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote PROSTOCKTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/18/2019 at 6:49pm
The Indy blocks have there own problems even after you  spend the $5000 to buy one, so putting $1600 extra into a stock iron block is still $3400 less than an Indy block and at least you'll know what you have. I also own an Indy block and they require a lot of extra money, effort to get right even after the purchase. Really the best bang for the buck is a warmed over 360 and call it good, but then no one every accused racers as smart or frugle. So long as I have cash flow I'll keep spending it, since you can't take it with you.

Tom
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