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63 American electrical issues |
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tomj 
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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 Posted: Feb/04/2019 at 10:49pm |
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bad ignition switch!
that sounds like a bad regulator. multiple problems is to be expected on a half century old anything! |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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al1630
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Joined: Oct/05/2017 Location: Boise, Idaho Status: Offline Points: 174 |
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Posted: Feb/05/2019 at 5:11pm |
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Yep, multiple problems is what's happening, especially after that car sat in a barn for 20 years. What's the best place to get a new voltage regulator? Specific part numbers?
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Alex
1963 Rambler American 440H |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum 
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Posted: Feb/12/2019 at 6:34am |
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The best replacement for the regulator is a $1 or so electronic voltage regulator. See http://worldpowersystems.com/AMC/dashreg/index.html Shown is a 63 Classic. Yours is different but connections are the same. I've been running one of these since 2000 in my 63 Classic. Any electronics place should have a 7805 5V regulator. The original regulator works by providing an average or 5V by rapidly turning 12V on and off. The gauges and sending units don't care if they are getting a constant steady 5V or that "cycling" voltage -- as long as they are not getting a full 12V they work just fine (12V would burn something up).
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Frank Swygert
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al1630
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Joined: Oct/05/2017 Location: Boise, Idaho Status: Offline Points: 174 |
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Posted: Feb/12/2019 at 8:07am |
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Thanks for the tip, looks like the best option since the original style ones seem hard to find and a lot more expensive.
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Alex
1963 Rambler American 440H |
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al1630
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Joined: Oct/05/2017 Location: Boise, Idaho Status: Offline Points: 174 |
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Posted: Mar/04/2019 at 4:51pm |
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I got a 5v regulator and hooked it up the same as the old regulator, but the fuel gauge always reads at half a tank and the temp gauge always shows H. The sending unit in the gas tank is almost brand new, and there's only a couple gallons in there. I'm guessing this means the gauges themselves are somehow broken? Any tips?
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Alex
1963 Rambler American 440H |
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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Posted: Mar/04/2019 at 11:51pm |
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they're easy enough to test individually. that yellow wire (i think it is) on the tank sender -- ground it back at the tank. you can leave it connected normally. doing so should peg the gas gauge at FULL. disconnect it: it should fall to empty. have patience, it's very slow. likewise temp senders: ground it the gauge should peg HOT; open, should fall to cold. if nothing happens at all, the meters could simply be physically stuck. rusted? next candidates for disfunction are connectors. the PC board connector on the panel. those old PC boards, the copper traces sometimes lift off from age. if they're electrically intact it's OK, but they're delicate. OK to glue them down (shellac, polyurethane, etc). loosen then tighten the PAL nuts for each guage; cuts a new connection in the old copper (not too tight). maybe they're loose? |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Posted: Mar/05/2019 at 6:19am |
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Another thing on the fuel sending unit. They ground through the tank. So the straps have to be on bare metal and making a good connection. 50+ years there is some corrosion there, and some coat or paint the tank when taking it out for repair. Sand the fuel hose nipple real good and wrap a stripped end of wire around it. If the sending unit is out solder the wire in place. For testing wrapped a couple turns and twisted tight will do, and should last at least a few months, maybe longer (you'll know the issue if it starts reading low again!). Of course other end is fastened on any chassis bolt, or use a small sheet metal screw. I usually put a sheet metal screw in the front tank support. The temp gauge could be the sending unit. Hard to find the right one! Later models have a different thread and may have a different resistance. The unit MUST be fully immersed, using an adapter usually brings it to far up out of the water stream to read correctly. Ground as Tom suggests. You should be able to isolate where the issue is. Ground at back of gauge and pegs, gauge is good. Ground at sending unit and pegs, wire is good. So that would be sending unit, and you see where it goes from there...
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Frank Swygert
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al1630 wrote: