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Cold Weather ignition switch stiffness

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White70JavelinSST View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Cold Weather ignition switch stiffness
    Posted: Jan/30/2019 at 12:10pm
Today in SW MN the high is predicted at 20 some degrees below zero Fahrenheit. 
My 92 K1500 pickup truck's ignition switch was tough to get it to move at all, took both sets of fingers and hands. It was really stiff temperature was -30 F when I tried. I wrapped on the steering column a couple times with the key cylinder in the "START" position and the switch caught and turned over the engine.

The above experience immediately reminded me, although I haven't driven the White70 in subfreezing temperatures since the fall of 2017 that,

The White70Javelin has the same issue, but it starts acting up about 30 to 40 degrees above zero. I assume it's because I've never had it apart in 50 years of ownership. I guess there's grit and jellied lubricants that prevent it from moving freely in cold temperatures. I hate to have to pull the column, disassemble it to clean and fresh lube the mechanism, and I certainly don't want to get the new carpet messy. Is there a way to remedy this without removing the steering column? If not I guess I'll pull and clean it all up and put in a new ignition switch while I'm at it.

Thanks
70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote knightflight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 8:50pm
You don't have to remove the column, but you need to remove the wheel to release the tumbler, or down under the column if you need to service the switch.
Walt

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ccowx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 9:16pm
Funny, I have found the same thing in my 70. I have it in a garage that is about 20 degrees F and it sticks just a bit. I have not tried it below that temperature, though once warm I have driven it around the cul de sac at -20. Traction is not great with a set of near bald F70-14 Polyglas GT's, let me tell yah!

Chris 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote knightflight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 9:33pm
Actually, I meant to mention, sometimes on those, the problem is actually between the tumbler and the column. If you dribble a bit of oil like WD40 in between the key tumbler and the column as you move the unit on and off, it sometimes does the job!
Walt

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mixed up Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 11:48pm
the tumbler runs a rack witch run a rod down to the switch it could be the grease is all stiff form age you can pull it and grease I up by remove wheel then remove the screw that hold tumble in location put some light grease on he tumbler gear and rack
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/12/2019 at 8:44am
Thanks guys, I'll have to look into that. For some reason I have this aversion to disassembling the steering column. I guess I'm afraid something will go ge-sproing into the depths of the shop and I'll never find it back. I've had the wheel off several times because that crazy little button thing that runs the horn wants to move around in there and then the horn won't work.

Anyway, looks like the column has to come out again. Not chancing getting lube on the fresh black carpet.

Thanks again everyone.
70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/12/2019 at 9:48am
Roger Gazur
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/12/2019 at 10:16am
As a side note to sticky GM ignition switches. If anyone has an original, the grease dries with age. A new switch is much smoother than an old origninal.

If need be, one can remove the switch and disassemble clean the contacts and remove the old grease. Then lube the plasic body along the sliding parts, not the at the metal contact areas, with synthetic wheel bearing grease, before re-assembly.

My OEM 10 year old switch back in 84 was a mess from heat dry out being in the hot San Jose area most of its life. Its sliding action greatly improved by such a job. It was so bad that it stuck in on position once i removed the key, and i had to quickly bump the start position while quickly switching to off position (Cringe) to allow the internal spring to kick the slider back enough to disengage the on position.

It would have properly turned off if the switch was in proper adjustment. Unbeknownst to me at the time, until i diagnosed what was going on.

Believe it or not, the switch hole where the rod end is held, happens to be slightly slotted, not round. So it is critical to set the switch location proper so that the rod can actually set the switch to off posistion when the rod is set by the key tumber lock mechinism.
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