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Grounding issue?

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purple72Gremlin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/05/2018 at 10:52am
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:


True - but I was asking sort of to get someone to think it through, sort of like my old professors would do, or a boss I had at Compressor Controls, where we'd argue like lawyers, taking sides we didn't necessarily agree with, to force the other person to support their contentions.
You did exactly that - you knew the fuel gauge is grounded back there and only POWER goes to and through the gauge, and it's grounded at the tank. 
So, if it happens to the fuel gauge at the same time, it can't be ground, it must be SUPPLY side, or the (+) side of things.
And that takes me to where I was starting - the power into the cabin, or at least the fuse panel area or the ignition switch (and I have had these EXACT same symptoms in my little Eagle years ago  -exactly this - the switch supplied IGNITION but not power to the accessories - gauges, etc.). 
Depending on what keeps going - well, the ENGINE keeps running - ok, so it can't be the main power to the fuse panel as the ignition is sourced from that, too. 
Could it be at the ignition switch - where it keeps ignition feed but loses "accessory" feed (gauges, radio, blower, etc. all go through the ignition switch)

Anyway, bigbad69 - thanks for supporting what I was attempting to do - get people to figure it out logically instead of throwing things at the wall and see what sticks.
Ask "what do these things have in common".
For the alternator or charging system, nothing.
For the rest - you proved it's not a ground issue if it happens to the FUEL gauge, too.
But then we do need to consider that the cluster regulator requires a ground........ but if ungrounded the fuel gauge should peg as the regulator won't regulate (others please refer to TSM where is says regulator ground REQUiRED or you can FRY the gauges, bigbad69 already knows how that all works)

So if the cluster regulator loses ground, it stops regulating and the gauges climb, not drop. Another piece of the puzzle indicating likely feed issue.

LOGIC is your best friend in auto electric, tossing stuff at the wall to see what sticks is a way to spend many days, many dollars and still not get there.

I try to use logic myself... I am not a wire fan..but give me enough time, and I'll fugure it out. Its also why I wont help certain people.. they dont understand and never will.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2018 at 7:32am
Yes logic is a good process, so lets have a look at what we have:
- the car is beautiful with full restoration,
- the car has a completely new wiring harness
- the car looks to be redone by professionals
- from observation the car's interior is likely painstakingly restored also
Put those observations into the equation. What do restorers not like to do - scratch up a beautiful paint job. But that can create it's own set of problems - paint does not conduct electricity well!
4 or more coats of paint to get that finish produces good electrical insulation.
My posting to look at grounds first was based on logical observation of what I see as a start point and admittedly not jumping to individual component diagnosis.
After the grounds have been verified and a more detailed description of the exact faults encountered after that - it would be time to get the TSM out.
Just my way of logical observation. Right or wrong.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2018 at 7:44am
They also likely used used parts like ign switch, cluster etc.
It still points to power issue.......based on been there.
;-)

Now if they were true professionals they made the grounds good!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2018 at 8:04am
Fully agree but I don't know the restoration professionals. The easiest thing to first check is grounding - especially when you likely have new parts and you don't believe the charging system is up to snuff and you have other electrical related issues.
Not saying the above approaches are wrong, they are correct, but I would check the easy first to scratch it off the list.
Just my way of doing things - not always logical to others but works for me.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amxgopack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/08/2018 at 6:11pm
Ok, so I maybe found the issue. When I wiggle the key in just the right way the voltmeter goes to zero. Sounds like it might be the ignition switch. Do I need to remove the steering wheel to get to the switch? How big of a job is replacing the switch?

Thanks again everyone for your help
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/08/2018 at 9:47pm
Yup - sounds like I suspected.............
The switch is typically screwed onto the side of the steering column. 
There is a link between the KEY lock and the switch down below.

It makes total sense to be the switch. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amxgopack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/10/2018 at 6:55pm
Ok so I made things worse. I bought a new ignition switch, and attempted to install it, I thought I did a good job, but now the key turns freely (no resistance) and nothing happens. Did I miss a step? I'm confused, please help!
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