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Harbor Freight Blasting Cabinet Review

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71SC360 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 71SC360 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/17/2009 at 9:43pm
This is the one I have... (http://www.tptools.com/p/2709,53_960-T-Sandblasting-Cabinet.html) I've had it for about two years now but I have yet to hook it up. It's a brand new, 2 year old rig. The problem is I haven't hooked up my compressor (a 7HP, 60 gal model). I' was having problems with the electricity in the shop and haven't taken car of it yet so the compressor and SB cabinet were put on hold...
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amundaza View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amundaza Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/17/2009 at 9:45pm
Yep, got a drier installed on the compressor, which "helps".
Sincerely,
GregTaylor
Rochester Hills, MI
1989 Grand Wagoneer "Terminator 2"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amundaza Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/17/2009 at 9:52pm
Originally posted by 71SC360 71SC360 wrote:

This is the one I have... (http://www.tptools.com/p/2709,53_960-T-Sandblasting-Cabinet.html) ...
 
 
That looks purdy nice!
Sincerely,
GregTaylor
Rochester Hills, MI
1989 Grand Wagoneer "Terminator 2"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeremy0711 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/27/2009 at 11:23am
If you do a little FYI on the air compressors then it will tell you like it did me that you need to have atleast 25 feet of tubing before you get to the blasting cabinet to reduce moisture on equipment. I have an 80 gallon setup in the corner with a regulator on it. I have ran pvc tubing all around the garage. I have additional regulators on each end of the garage with a moisture trap on them. It is 30 feet length on both lines. A moisture trap right off the compressor is about useless. It does trap some but it misses more do to all the compressed pressure. I had one there in line and it doesn't do any good no matter what. I do capture water on the outer traps. It doesn't trap a lot of water. It will amaze you in the difference. It made a big difference when I laid out the lines throughout my garage. I had a mud mess trying the DA right off the compressor. I don't hardly have any issues with the terrible humidity in my area along the river. It cost me about 50 bucks in tubing, valves, and hardware to mount. I had a hookup on regulators and traps though.


Edited by jeremy0711 - Jun/27/2009 at 11:26am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2009 at 12:40pm
Build moisture traps into the bottom of any vertical runs.
Even though I did not need to go there. I ran mine out of the compressor and up to the ceiling then dropped it back down to the first line disconnect.  There are vertical extensions going down to floor level everywhere one of my lines has a vertical drop or rise. Placed a ball valve at the bottom of each drop. Each vertical looks like a side ways T with the vertical continuing down to allow debri and rust or moisture to drop down out of the air stream.
  My shop is 44' from my compressor and I get zero moisture in the trap at the shop!
It is wonderful and worth every minute it took to run the pipe!
I got a bunch of 1.5" iron pipe free, so I bought a cheap piper threader and went to town!

On topic, I have a Harborfrieght blast cabinet like the one mentioned.
Nice cabinet for the dollar, plan on replacing the gun, not very good.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ehmc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2009 at 4:03pm
To get moisture out you need to cool the air - so as was said earlier a moisture trap at the tank/compressor outlet is useless/ waste of time.
Run metal lines to cool off the air better.
I plumbed my whole garage with 1/2" copper plumbing pipe for my air system.
You guys need to get rid of those cheap plastic "tear offs" and make up a window frame that holds a piece of "sacrificial" glass up against the existing window.
Have your local hdwe store cut you some pieces of old window glass - works great instead of soft plastic.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2009 at 4:39pm
I don't mind the tear-offs at all. Been no problem for me here. IMO, it's a lot easier to replace a plastic sheet once in a while as opposed to removing glass and dealing with the dust that gets between and storing the glass, etc......... (I also use more double-stick than the stock sheets do so I don't get dust between that sheet and the glass).
On mine, the top doesn't open so it wouldn't be too easy to maneuver glass into position.

Around here, you need to drain the compressor every 30 minutes tops if using it very much.
I got a good 1/4 cup of water from my compressor every 15 or 20 minutes in the past month while blasting and painting.
I rigged a length of pipe at the bottom of the tank to let water settle into that instead of sitting against the tank. If the pipe rusts, so what. I have a ball valve at the end of the pipe pointing to the floor drain.
Ideally, you have a trap and filter at the end of each drop. Schedule 40 works great and is cheap and light to work with. You also have 0 oxidation or corrosion. I don't like metal simply because it DOES cool the air, and then the moisture condenses in the pipes......
I've seen 10 years use on plastic and 10 years use on metal pipe. The plastic was in great shape, the metal was a mess inside............. and the water condensed in the cool pipe in the winter and froze and plugged the lines. We had some real issues with metal pipes at the shop filling with water when they got cold as it acted like a still..............
I'm going schedule 40, 3/4" to the top, then drop 1/2 down to my bench and between the doors and will have traps and filters at the bottom end of each drop. If I recall schedule 40 is good for over 400 psi.
(it will be just like a fellow nearby who does sandblasting and painting for a living, (and has a compressor that fills his tanks up to 200 psi in under 2 minutes. He showed me his compressor and pipe and filter setup going to his paint booth and he loves it. Been trouble-free for several years))

Them's my opinions on the subject anyway.

jeremy - that setup sounds like the fellow I was talking about........ his works great. No moisture issues. No, a trap at the compressor is indeed worthless. The idea is to grab the moisture from the air as it expands and cools................. near the end.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2009 at 7:01pm
One note to remember with pvc. Do not place it where it can be struck or damaged.
Especially when cold. I've seen the shards when a pvc pipe froze and shudder to think what those same shards could do.
   Yeah my iron pipe may rust, but the shop I worked at in 1980 is still running on the same pipe they installed in the 1970's. Part of the key to long life is the vertical drops and making sure the horizontal runs do have drainage taper to keep water from puddling.
   YMMV, I basically did it the way I did because the pipe was big and FREE!
 My tank has an extension like you use. I bought brass pipe for mine, no corrosion in the pipe!
My compressor is outside and even though I know the pipe must have frozen several times over in the last 10 years it has never cracked or leaked.
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65 Ambassador Ragtop rustbucket

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2009 at 8:26pm
Exactly right on the iron pipe - no low spots - water will settle. A slight slop to it on the horizontal.
Damage is one reason I'll be going straight up, and over, then down. Won't be exposed to vehicles, etc. Will be protected by other things.

A compressor outside here needs to be heated. The boss moved ours outside when I worked there and he build an enclosure and put in a small electric heater......... They don't like to work so well when the HIGH is 20 below.

We had a copper pipe - it was actually the copper flexible tube like gas line, and it blew up one day. BANG! Ripped 'er wide open and scared the @#$% out of us!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Artisan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/03/2009 at 5:01am
    I just posted in tools about this, and no, I am not a rep for them,they do work dam good
http://www.mediablast.com/light-duty-siphon-blasters.asp
http://www.texasblaster.com
 
 
Regards,
Artisan
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