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Help!!! fresh rebuilt won't start. |
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Jay68SST
AMC Apprentice Joined: May/23/2016 Location: Arcadia, KS Status: Offline Points: 189 |
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Stock hydraulic lifters, and stock torque down style rockers. |
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Greyhounds_AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/14/2009 Location: Kansas City Status: Offline Points: 1268 |
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I meant to say, what do the compression test numbers look like for each cylinder?
If the compression is correct, you probably can rule out cam or valve related issues and focus on spark and fuel. What does the spark look like? Blue/white, orange, etc and how far will it jump? Is there fuel? Maybe run the throttle by hand and make sure the shooter squirts smoothly. Also pull the fuel filter and see if you can shake and rust dust out of it. |
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1968 AMX 390 w/T5
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Jay68SST
AMC Apprentice Joined: May/23/2016 Location: Arcadia, KS Status: Offline Points: 189 |
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Going to checking all that on Sunday. I am pulling off the valve covers, taking out the spark plugs and turn by hand to verify my cam setting is correct. I am also going to check the compression of each cylinder also. Once I verify everything I am going to set #1 cylinder TDC on compression and drop the distributor in pointed at #1 spark. Going to follow the manual that I have and advance the distributor until the points just barely open. Before I put the plugs back in I am going to set the timing with a timing light, and check the spark and re-gap all the plugs As for fuel, I am running an electric fuel pump and it works fine, I have it remotely setup running out of a 5 gallon fuel can. The carb was tested and tuned on another engine (MOPAR big block 400) and basically removed from one and put on the other. Hopefully this weekend it will fire and run, if not it is coming out.
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tomslik
AMC Addicted Joined: Mar/07/2008 Location: Colorado Status: Offline Points: 680 |
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any chance the distributor gear is slipping on the distributor shaft?
roll pin broke+/or missing? |
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67 american 290/4speed |
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Red20
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/29/2013 Location: Oceanside CA Status: Offline Points: 1556 |
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I’m wondering how your fuel pump is wired. Wonder if there’s an issue there. I use an oil pressure switch in mine. Closed under 10+ lbs pressure and closed under cranking. What I mean to say is that power from the starter solenoid goes to the normally closed terminal and triggers the fuel pump relay while cranking then power from the ignition switch run terminal goes to the normally open terminal that closes when there’s fuel pressure and powers the fuel pump relay.
Not 100% necessary to do that, but maybe look at fuel pressure and your pump wiring in general. Are you using a bypass regulator and return line? Does the pump fill the bowls and hit your desired pressure then maintain pressure under cranking? Look at your carb setup as well. Though this does indeed sound like a timing/valve issue, is your secondary throttle stop screwed in too much and allowing your secondaries to draw in too much air while cranking? There are a lot of little things that could be affecting you, but generally if your carb will give you some fuel and your timing is close and you have spark, it should at least run. |
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1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER |
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madmax
AMC Nut Joined: Sep/18/2008 Location: grain valley,mo Status: Offline Points: 401 |
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chances are your lifter preload is too much and holding the valves slightly open thus reducing the cranking compression needed to fire the cylinders. i have built lots of amc engines as well as others, i have always needed to shim the pedestals to get the proper lifter preload when using other than stock cams. crane and comp both sell kits for this. you will need to have the intake off to do this correctly. iircc the lifter preload should be .040 to .060 its a little hard to measure but if you watch the plunger on the lifter as you tighten the rocker arm bolt it should just start to move down from the retainer on the lifter body plus aprox a 1/4 turn. hope this helps here is a link on setting preload http://cranecams.com.au/pdfs/pp1110c.pdf
Edited by madmax - Jan/13/2018 at 1:44am |
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American Heavy Metal
restoration parts and mechanical restoration services 70 amx black 1968 kaplan amx ss/racecar 1969 amx racecar 1970 trans am javelin 1969 amx white/platinum 1972 gremlin |
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69 ambassador 390
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Nov/22/2009 Location: Peoria, AZ Status: Offline Points: 3539 |
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Did you install the cam gear with the cam key in the oil slot?
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Steve Brown
Algonac, Mi. 69 Ambassador sst 390 84 Grand Wagoneer 69 Cougar XR7 65 Fairlaine 500XL 79 F-350 Super Camper Special |
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Lucas660
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/16/2012 Location: Vic, Australia Status: Offline Points: 1344 |
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Hopefully the fuel can is not on the ground with the pump above it. It would be struggling to prime the pump. Just my 2c from what I've read.
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tached_out
AMC Nut Joined: Feb/08/2008 Location: Vancouver, BC Status: Offline Points: 328 |
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NO! STOP. This is wrong. If you do this your points will be on the back side of the cam in the distributor. Your timing will be off by a mile. You have to RETARD the distributor so the points come up onto the front of the cam. Remember when the engine is running, the cam comes up to the points which are stationary.
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Jay68SST
AMC Apprentice Joined: May/23/2016 Location: Arcadia, KS Status: Offline Points: 189 |
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Instead of "advance" I should have said "rotate". This just get it close. I have a 1968 AMC Service manual and that is how they say to set ignition timing. Page 4-28 and 4-29. I am going time with a timing light by cranking the motor over without starting (spark plugs will be out, no fuel either).
Edited by Jay68SST - Jan/13/2018 at 3:45pm |
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