Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
input on welders? |
Post Reply | Page 123 9> |
Author | ||
billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: Aug/22/2015 at 10:15pm |
|
I have an old forney stick welder. You know the big metal box with all the holes in the front for the leads - each hole has 3 amp values, and there are high, medium and low for the ground lead, otherwise it's a big on/off switch in the front. I bought it as a farm sale when I started farming in 1982. I have a carbon arch setup for it and can melt down a suspension bridge in minutes with it. I can cut tractor drawbars, melt holes in 1" steel, and weld crane parts......... but can't really weld sheet metal or anything thin and can't really do non-ferrous metals at all.
When I talked to the owner of the body shop that sprayed my Eagle about replacing the rocker panels in my 73 Javelin and putting the seat belt mounting provisions back in the car because the PO did some sill patching but never put back a way to put seat belts back in the car, he finally suggested I do the work myself, save the money to get the car painted up how I really wanted it down the road. He said use some of the money I'd save in theory by not paying him and "go to Harbor Freight, spend 15 bucks and buy a welder and do it yourself". Wow, really? A welder for 150? Hmmm......... Well, I have a few thoughts, but mostly questions. First, I really want to put the new rocker panels in like the factory- SPOT WELD, not continuous bead from a stick welder. I need to be able to do spot welding anyway. I also want to be able to do smooth sheet metal welds with something besides my TORCH. My welding "training" goes back to the days when Fred and Barney worked for Mr. Slate. I learned initially in the 8th grade, then go refreshed in college, and then the service manager gave me more pointers when I started working my first job out of college. I wasn't bad then if I had a decent welder and good rod. I did a lot of truck maintenance, frame stretching, hitch work, and even exhaust work that was ok. But that was many years ago, technology has changed, methods have changed and honestly I've forgotten most of what I thought I knew all those years ago. For spot welding, sheet metal work as in car bodies, rocker panel replacement, and just general welding around the shop or home - what is recommended? Was he joking about harbor freight welders doing what I want to do on that car - and for only 150 bucks? Holy price swing batman - when I looked at welders elsewhere we're in the $500 range and that's the point I might as well go ahead and pay him to do the work! TIG is too bloody complex for my blood. i'd need a college degree in welding just to turn one on and melt steel with it. No way, no TIG. MIG - now I see you can get some cheap, but they have wild price ranges, there's the wire, the gas and so on, but I see some can do with gas or without - apparently the wire itself has a core or coating.... Or stick with the old Forney stick welder for 1/4" and larger steel stock, skip welding anything other than mild steel of some thickness and just pay someone to do the finer work? I absolutely admit- I'm not brilliant on welder knowledge. I don't know what's out there, how they work, how to use them, what each type might be used for, or even what sort of welder I'd want to weld sheet stock, rocker panels, do spot welding and so on. Let's put it this way, i get by - but have lost more than I ever knew about the topic.
|
||
1970390amx
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/11/2008 Location: colorado Status: Offline Points: 3314 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I would buy one that uses gas, the weld is a lot cleaner. I have a Lincoln welder and love it. You should look into the cost of a argon bottle and add that to the cost of a welder. Once you own a mig you will wonder how you got along without it. If you can arch weld and gas weld it will take you about ten minutes to learn the mig. Personally I would buy a better welder than HF but you can always buy it and use it they will take it back if you hate it. cut up some sheet metal into small squares and go for it. I have an old German made Elekta Beckum mig welder you can have if you want,jusxt find a way to get it to your house. Set up to use gas but has flux core wire in it now.
I would set it up to use .023 wire, you should look on craigs list. Edited by 1970390amx - Aug/22/2015 at 11:11pm |
||
1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX
1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box |
||
tufcj
Supporter of TheAMCForum Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Watkins, CO Status: Online Points: 4085 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I have a Miller 135. It's a 110V (20 amp) unit that will use flux core wire or gas. I use gas and either .030 or .023 wire depending on what I'm welding. It has a much better duty cycle than a HF welder. I use the heck out of it and have never had any problems.
Bob tufcj |
||
69 AMX
74 Javelin AMX 67 Rogue If you need a tool and don't buy it... you'll eventually pay for it... and not have it. Henry Ford |
||
401jim
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/07/2012 Location: Brunswick,Ohio Status: Offline Points: 793 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I have a Hobart 180 and swear by it. It was reasonable and has served me well. The only draw back is the bottle to feed the unit. It will do 3/8 thick material and do real thin sheet metal as well. The cart came from Harbor Freight.
|
||
|
||
fasttony
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/09/2011 Location: US Status: Offline Points: 1188 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I recently bought a 170 amp MIG welder from HF it was on sale and with a coupon it was $159, it can weld .023"(#22 Ga.) up to 1/4" steel 30-170 amp. While I was at it I bought a cart and some accessories, different size and material welding wire, welding torch shields...also a RV/Camper 50`#10 Ga. 30 amp power cord and correct receptacles. I have some sheet metal to do on my Javelin so this will work for my needs. It is a light duty welder, the higher the amp usage the less time for continuous welding duty cycle, given it is air cooled, so on 170 amps it can only weld for about 2 minutes straight. I believe the big brand name welders have a much better duty cycle. If I were going to do sheet metal welding that needs to be flat, I would do small plug welds by drilling a hole in the upper sheet metal and welding in the hole, they hold just like pinch welds. When I have light welding to do, I set up my welder by test welding with the same gages of the sheet metal first. A little practice goes a long way, it won't be long you'll be welding like a pro. I learned that welding supply/gas companies don't like to fill privately owned tanks anymore, they prefer you rent from them. The only reason the local company filled my tank is because my employer has a big account with them, there was a $10 charge added on.
Tony
Edited by fasttony - Aug/23/2015 at 1:06pm |
||
232jav3sp
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 2451 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I've got a Miller 211 that is the love of my life. I had used a couple of Millers that belonged to others, and was always impressed with them. Lightyears better then the Clarke welder my dad got a deal on for the shop. He was looking at the Lincoln welders about three years ago when he was upgrading equipment, and I told him, "No, I want a Miller." After all, I'm the only person that uses it. Superb product. Not exactly cheap though... IIRC, it was around $1500? I'm honestly not too sure, since the business paid for it. But, it is a great machine.
I ALWAYS use gas over flux core. Much cleaner weld with better penetration (I find anyway). Also, doing stop/start and stitch welding, you'll appreciate having agron-shield gas over flux. 110v with .023" wire works best for body panels. Heck, I've welded 3/8" and solid bar with that set up and it just burns right on in there. Matter of fact, I haven't swapped the machine back over to 220v and .035" wire in nearly a year! That is one of the great things about the Miller 211 I have; you can change the plug end to use either 110v or 220v. It also accepts a spool gun for aluminum wire, or you out a two pound roll of mig wire in it. |
||
69AMX364
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jun/07/2009 Location: Dallas, TX Status: Offline Points: 150 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I disagree on the Argon gas unless you are welding aluminum. For welding steel you will get a real tan really fast, enough to make you say "WTF?". Use regular gas mix, the bottles as mentioned are a problem to buy unless you know someone or always come back to exchange the bottles at the selling store. A good MIG will allow you to all sorts of work, do not cheap out. Buy once and keep it.
When my friend bought his arc welder he compared it to others that had aluminum wiring and the weight was quite a bit heaver. I have it now and it is still working 35 years later, still heavy as sin. |
||
tyrodtom
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Online Points: 6213 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Years ago when I had a cheap Century mig that was only air cooled, I improved it's duty cycle by adding a muffin fan that bought at radio Shack. There was already a place on the mig's back for a fan on the more expensive model.
If you keep welding and pushing the duty cycle, and just letting it cool down enough that it will weld again, you will do permanent damage to the mig. I've got the same mig cart from Harbor Freight, but I improved it with bigger lawn mower wheels on the back, and bigger casters on the front. I have to wheel it outside sometimes, the bigger wheels lets it roll much easier over gravel. Edited by tyrodtom - Aug/23/2015 at 12:47pm |
||
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
|
||
Lucas660
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/16/2012 Location: Vic, Australia Status: Offline Points: 1344 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I'm using a Cebora Mig. Definitely use gas, a argon/co2 blend.
I can also recommend not buying the cart, that can be your first project with the machine. Auto darkening helmets are the greatest welding improvement in a long time. I have used a few inverter migs too that were quite nice. As with all tools, buy the best you can afford. Also make sure contact tips and other spares are readily and locally available. |
||
232jav3sp
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 2451 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Yes, you use straight argon for aluminum. It works for steel, but, doesn't have the same results as argon-shield, which is the blend that Lucas660 is talking about below. Argon-shield is what my ARCET store calls it.
A good auto darkening helmet is great for body work. When you are stitch welding, spot welding and having to do a lot of start and stop work, it's too much of a hassle to keep flipping the helmet open and closed. Most areas you may work in are too darn tight to continually "lift it and flip it". Just leave the helmet down and go to town. Sometimes (and this may depend on the helmet) it may be just a tad dark where you are working to get very good sight on the area you are working, so having a flashlight or droplight can help with an auto darkening helmet. |
||
Post Reply | Page 123 9> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |