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Now offering plated parts as option on...

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billd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Now offering plated parts as option on...
    Posted: Jan/06/2014 at 7:21am
alternators, wiper motors, blower motors, starters, etc.

I've found a plater to work with on alternator fans and pulleys for those who wish to opt for that choice.
Now the various levels to choose from for alternator fans and pulleys will be painted, powder coated, or re-plated. (pics below)

Similar for Prestolite wiper motors - painted using the Eastwood process or re-plated mounting plate and motor frame. (pics below)

If there is enough interest I will consider the product code/date stamp for Motorola alternators. Few stampings survived for even a few years so they aren't often seen or found but if there is enough interest, I'll invest the $$ to add that as an option as well.

Sorry, my camera for some reason has troubles with certain colors and plating - I guess I'm not technical enough to figure it out! LOL





Here is one example of powder coated fan and pulley - I've also made powder mixes that have a bit more "color" to them, a hint of gold/yellow, where desired.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CloudyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/06/2014 at 5:47pm
Billd Looks  great Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/21/2014 at 12:45pm
Originally posted by CloudyB CloudyB wrote:

Billd Looks  great Thumbs Up


Thanks -
As with any part, plating has the end effect of magnifying any defects. If there's a scratch, or pitting from rust, it will look 100 times worse once plated.  I used "nice originals" for the test parts. I did send a couple of parts I knew were "second rate" and the result was as expected, YUCK!

... that being said it's hard to give a "blanket price" or "one price fits all" on cost as it could vary with condition of the original/core sent me for restoration/repair.
If a part is badly pitted or scratched or rusty it won't plate well and will look like heck so the only recourse is for me to supply a good used replacement (since new are not available for most of the parts in question).
That means increased cost.

At this point I prefer to not average out costs among everyone just so that I can give a set price on anything.
What I currently do is give a range "depending" on condition of your original. I am also a bit more generous in that I often supply replacement parts and fudge a bit - often just throwing in a part if I have plenty of cores with "decent" parts. So you may have gotten back an alternator with mounting holes and threads far better than your original with no extra charge. If I can, I do, but it depends on the supply of parts on hand. Lots of decent cores, I tend to give things away.

For my price structure at this point I feel I'd rather hold costs down and have any advantage going to the better core or starting point and not have those with parts in better shape subsidize the cost for those who have originals so badly rusted or damaged it takes double the time and effort and cost to get it done right.

Maybe I'm thinking unfairly, but it seems to me that if someone supplies a starter or alternator or wiper motor or whatever that's not rusted tight, where the parts aren't badly pitted and are decent or clean up easier pay just as much as if I get something really crusty where half the parts are pretty much unusable and I need to dig through cores and good used parts on hand to make it just as nice. More time is spent, more parts added to make it right and good.

Or would AMC people rather have a set price that is in between, and no matter what the condition, it always costs the same? Meaning the better starting point helps pay the extra costs for those rusted and stuck with a broken mounting ear or trashed rotor?
OK, another way to look at it - should a body shop always charge all customers the exact same price for a full repaint, regardless of the original condition, or should one be charged less if there's very little damage and no rust while the more damaged or rusty one pay more?

I'm asking as some have asked "how much extra is the plating" or what would the cost be with plating. If I set up a price schedule where it's always the exact same amount - say wiper plate and motor frame always cost xxx for plating, it's going to have to be higher for some than it would otherwise be, but would end up cheaper for others who may have nasty original parts.

(keeping in mind this isn't "reman" - you get back what you send only much much better. The only exceptions are in cases of NO original or core, or broken/damaged parts like the mounting ear busted off an alternator, etc. and I don't have a great supply of extras on hand).

Consider this "market research" - ha.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p8spirit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2015 at 9:16pm
Nice work Bill will have some parts for you to check out soon!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/14/2015 at 6:53am
My end goal - retirement from IT soon - meaning hopefully in a couple of years, then go back into auto almost full-time when that happens. Ramping up, equipping shop, etc. for that eventual goal.
Will concentrate on auto-electric but also be able to do other "component parts" like suspension parts (spring supports for example - clean 'em up, either powder coat or paint, replace bushings) and so on.







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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gtoman_us Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/14/2015 at 8:12am
As usual for Bill top workmanship.

I have wondered this on scratches and nicks and pits... if you could float it smooth with tin-lead solder.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PlazinJavelin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/15/2015 at 9:26pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

My end goal - retirement from IT soon - meaning hopefully in a couple of years

I'm rooting for you Bill. I'm looking forward to doing the same.  D@#!, I'm off to study for my next cert.

Great looking parts
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/27/2015 at 7:10am
Originally posted by gtoman_us gtoman_us wrote:

As usual for Bill top workmanship.

I have wondered this on scratches and nicks and pits... if you could float it smooth with tin-lead solder.



I have actually experimented with that on a wiper motor mounting plate. There were a few pits in the area near the upper passenger side corner of one I had. I "tinned" it with solder and filed and sanded it smooth and did get zinc to plate over it but it's takes a lot of "hand-holding" or manual work.
I believe once done the pits won't be noticeable.
Zinc or bright zinc is easy. Tin/zinc is also pretty easy and more forgiving than plain zinc.
When you get into yellow zinc a single part can take hours of plating. Brush plating such a part can take an hour of manual work because it takes such a thick amount to get the yellow to take and not eat through the zinc that you have to plate, clean, plate, clean, plate clean several times, then apply the chromate and if you missed or didn't get an area thick enough the chromate eats the zinc away and you take it all off and START OVER.  And if the zinc itself isn't polished with a good shine, the yellow will be DULL and not nicely multi-colored.

I have also made jigs to mount some parts that are symmetcrical or round in a lathe or drill press and filed and sanded them enough to get most if not all of the pits out.
Again, a couple of hours of manual labor, and a good dust mask as you are removing metals that are potentially dangerous when turned to dust. Wash hands, don't breath it.  Even zinc can kill or at the least poison you if not careful. Cad is worse.
I once did a brush cover for a Mitsubishi starter which was BADLY pitted, I cut a circle of  oak that fit snugly into the inside of the cover, ran a carriage bolt through the center of the wood blank, screwed the brush cover to the wood and mounted it in a drill press. I got all of the pits filed and sanded off the sides of the cover and most of them off the end and then brush plated it which further reduced the depth of the remaining pits.

I hear I'm too bloody cheap on this stuff- I was just told by a fellow who worked at a parts store that to just "repair" his Jeep alternator cost him $200 locally, NOT restored, not looking like new or original, just fix it and get it working.
So for an alternator that you can STILL buy new parts for cost that fellow $200 for repairs or a "rebuild", I take it to the next level, do restoration on alternators for which you can't just go out and buy new parts for (and I include powder coated or plated parts) for less than 2/3 of that and may spend 1 or 2 hours on a single part to make it look right.  
My math is way off somewhere.........   Confused



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/07/2015 at 11:17am
I know my wiper motor and plate were gold originally. That 1973 alternator you have thats mine, was the fan plated originally?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/07/2015 at 11:16pm
 
Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

I know my wiper motor and plate were gold originally.  That 1973 alternator you have thats mine, was the fan plated originally?
 

Motorola did something rather interesting - 
The units sold to AMC for use on vehicles assembled at the factory had a dull silver/gray plating on the fans and pulleys, resembling cad plating in a way. 
The pulleys and fans were plated the same, they matched. 
However, parts (fans and pulleys) sold to AMC as replacement parts or parts sold directly by Motorola as replacement parts had a yellow/gold finish. 
All of the NOS replacement pulleys and fans were yellow/gold. 

Motorola branded replacement alternators had the more yellow finish on the pulleys and fans (although they generally shipped with fan only, or no fan or pulley depending on if they were more of a universal replacement or a replacement directed at certain vehicles)
AMC dealers would have had replacement alternators with the same gray/silver plating as those that left the factory on cars. 
You won't find a hint or trace of the gold/yellow finish or plating on Motorola alternators taken off the cars or even those alternators sold as replacements by AMC.

To have the yellow/gold finish fans and pulleys you would have had replacement pulley and fan or a Motorola boxed replacement alternator. 
That means the dealer worked on the car and replaced the pulley and/or fan with new parts, or the entire alternator using a generic Motorola boxed alternator. 
To have the silver (dull, not shiny like polished or bright finish) it means it was a stock alternator or a dealer replacement alternator that was supplied by AMC. 

I can pretty well duplicate both finishes. 

This is NOS replacement fan and pulley - the yellow is faded with age and the camera tends to wash it out a tad - 


NOS fan with a bit of the yellow/gold color left, although badly faded with time. the silver left behind is the color that would be on alternators used on production line cars - notice that it's not really shiny.




Original replacement pulley - 


And another - 



Replacement alternator from Motorola and a NOS pulley with AMC box

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