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Oiling mods...who's done 'em?

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GreggR View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GreggR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Oiling mods...who's done 'em?
    Posted: Nov/05/2011 at 1:15pm
OK...here are the rules...
 
PLEASE only respond if you have DONE any or all of the mods in the attached article.
 
I am not asking about the valley return line...there are plenty of threads to deal with that and it's been discussed ad-nausium.
 
So, if you have done any of the other mods, do you think they were worth the time and effort?
 
 
Thanks for playing along...don't want to seem like a jacka$$, but theories and opinions aren't as usefull as practicle application, and I want to hear from members who have done any of these modifications.
 
Gregg
No matter where you go, there you are... Buckaroo Banzai.'75 Hornet Hatchback
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Charles Smiley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charles Smiley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2011 at 1:21pm

Oil mods for what purpose? Street, Drag, Autocross, Road Race? That would narrow it down somewhat.

 
 
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mstrcrftr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mstrcrftr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2011 at 1:36pm
i did all of the oil pump and housing mods on my 343.  i saw the results when the engine was on the dyno.  oil pressure stayed high all throughout the rpm range even when hot.
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GreggR View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GreggR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2011 at 1:38pm
Actually, I'm looking for real world advocacy of doing these mods for all driving conditions.
 
I may never do a timed 1/4 mile, but the experiences of those guys would still be valid.
 
I just want to avoid the "what I believe is better than what you believe" stuff that can and does happen on this forum.
 
I'm interested in any real world experiences...did you do it, did it help? Hurt? No difference?
 
Someone on this forum has done one or more of these mods...what did they think afterward?
 
Gregg
No matter where you go, there you are... Buckaroo Banzai.'75 Hornet Hatchback
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BassBoat View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BassBoat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2011 at 4:17pm
OK, street driven AMX that had oil starvation problems.  At about 3500 rpm on the highway oil pressure would drop if you accelerated.  I added an extra quart, and that helped.  Later I added a Canton oil pan, and then I didn't have to be too concerned about the oil level, even when the oil was a quart low I always had oil pressure.  Now, not every engine has oil starvation symptoms, certainly not all of mine have, but this one was a bad actor, and these things cured the problem.
bb
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74Bubblefender View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74Bubblefender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2011 at 4:21pm
No disrespect to the author or the original poster but I have seen those drawings for years. Reminds me of


Edited by 74Bubblefender - Nov/05/2011 at 4:21pm
We are just about to forge new AMC V8 crankshafts.. please check here
http://www.bulltear.com/forums/showthread.php?19564
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Charles Smiley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charles Smiley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2011 at 5:21pm
Bass Boat,

I had a '68 390 that did that. It was a very early AMX - #514. Really, I had worn it out at the drags for years. That motor had a rough life. It had lots of crank end-play too (4-speed). Does it sound familiar?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mstrcrftr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2011 at 5:28pm
matt that is way too funny...  reminds me of the time my brother wanted to hook up a battery to an inverter to run the battery charger while using his trolling motor....

Wait... isnt DEI also the acronym for teresa earnhardts failed business?
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addic View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote addic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2011 at 6:07pm
Originally posted by BassBoat BassBoat wrote:

OK, street driven AMX that had oil starvation problems.  At about 3500 rpm on the highway oil pressure would drop if you accelerated.  I added an extra quart, and that helped.  Later I added a Canton oil pan, and then I didn't have to be too concerned about the oil level, even when the oil was a quart low I always had oil pressure.  Now, not every engine has oil starvation symptoms, certainly not all of mine have, but this one was a bad actor, and these things cured the problem.
bb
I had the same exact problem,even with 8qt or 9qt. of oil ,Milidon pan ,valley line,3000rpm hiway ,
               
      On the next buid I polished  around the lifter valley area  to help with drain back and installed the indy timing cover with Razor pump and alls well ,great psi and revs too 7 grand .
                
 
 
 
 
73 401 Pierre Cardin X P1
73 401 Pierre Cardin X F3     70 X 390 4spd
69 X 401 6 spd
69 AMX 401 auto BSO
73 AMX 401 4speed pc
73 vette 427sb 5spd
73 vette convt.?
08 zx14
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JavmanBBG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JavmanBBG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/06/2011 at 12:27am
this is what the builders I am friends or family with tell me.  they both have had the stock oil pump with the right angle oil filter adapter at well over 8000 rpm on there race and or street cars.  my car goes to 7000 rpm regularly with no issues for 10 years so far with stock ,high pressure spring (unnecessary they use the stock melling spring) and using vr1 race oil in it

set up the oil pump clearance properly generaly .004 -.006" of the gears protruding from the oil pump housing but depends on the gasket thickness

use an aftermarket high capacity pan or an oil accumulator for higher rpm engines

make sure the little spacer is in the pickup as it can suck to the bottom of the pan (stock or extended)

debur and red glyptal paint in the valley area (saves time over polishing)

drill the drain back holes in the heads if there is any interference where they meet the block

check the oil slot in the cam gears on the timing sets as they can be in the wrong position particularly on gear drives some of them have the slot on the wrong side (mine was)

champfer the holes in the crank for the mains and rods

use sleeves in the lifter bores if using a roller cam (both have had lifter bleed off issues)

start the car in neutral with the with your foot off the clutch peddle if its a manual transmission (less stress on the thrust surface)

use racing oil or zddp aditive

they put the valley line in if it is a performance engine though both say it is just personal preference
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