Print Page | Close Window

ignition key/cylinder, etc

Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: The Garage
Forum Name: Electrical - non engine
Forum Description: Charging systems, lights, non-ignition system, it goes here.
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1843
Printed Date: Mar/28/2024 at 3:51pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: ignition key/cylinder, etc
Posted By: billd
Subject: ignition key/cylinder, etc
Date Posted: Nov/18/2007 at 11:26pm
The ignition switch (ok, not reall the switch) lock cylinder can be operated with no key. The key can be pulled even before the lock is all the way back (lever on colum to release)
Is this best repaired, or simply replaced?
Can it be fixed and rekeyed, or should I look for another?
I don't like the fact that someone can simply get in it and start it with no key, although today, they'd be screwed, the tranny is jammed again.
 
If it's best to just replace it, I guess I'll be placing a wanted ad...........
 
Also, what is the removal procedure? Is it the same on all years?


-------------


http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com

http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com



Replies:
Posted By: tufcj
Date Posted: Nov/19/2007 at 12:59am
It's worn out, probably best to just replace it.  My Jeep does the same thing, so I installed a hidden ignition cut-out switch.

The procedure is nearly the same for all Saginaw columns.

1. remove steering wheel and lock plate
    you need a compressor tool to remove the lock plate.
    you may need to loosen and lift the directional assembly to see under it.

2. with the key in the "on" position, you push a tab at the back end of the  lock barrel, it will slide out.

Bob
tufcj


-------------
69 AMX
74 Javelin AMX
67 Rogue

If you need a tool and don't buy it...
you'll eventually pay for it...
and not have it.
Henry Ford


Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Nov/19/2007 at 1:36am
If I get a replacement, I assume it can be "re-keyed" for to match the door locks?
I'd like to keep the "one key, all locks" setup these cars use. I've got NOS key blanks for this I'd like to use or maybe get a good setup and keep two individual keys, no problem there, really.


-------------


http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com

http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com


Posted By: tufcj
Date Posted: Nov/19/2007 at 2:55am
They can be re-keyed, you may have to find a willing GM dealership to do it.  I don't know how many locksmiths re-key car locks.

Bob
tufcj


-------------
69 AMX
74 Javelin AMX
67 Rogue

If you need a tool and don't buy it...
you'll eventually pay for it...
and not have it.
Henry Ford


Posted By: IowaEagle
Date Posted: Nov/19/2007 at 6:25am
We have a guy here in Marshalltown who will be glad to re-key.  Not a dealership, just a master locksmith.


Posted By: kirkwood
Date Posted: Nov/19/2007 at 7:27am
not quite re-key as you think. The napa/o'reilly's etc lock cylinders work fine, but use a GM key. They can cut that key to work with your existing door locks, but don't expect to cut an AMC key and have it work in the new cylinder - the key blanks are different. 

-------------
AMO Newsletter Editor


Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Nov/19/2007 at 7:56am
I'd much rather get a good used AMC lock cylinder. I don't want to get into mixed keys, etc.
So I may have to hold out until I find someone parting a later AMC and buy the lock parts. All I should need is the ignition lock cylinder and can have that changed. Or I guess be forced to use one key for the ign and another for the doors. The hatch is electric.


-------------


http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com

http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com


Posted By: CloudyB
Date Posted: Nov/19/2007 at 10:35am
Hey Billd. You might find what your looking for here
http://stores.ebay.com/Thomas-Sestak-Collector-Car-Parts - http://stores.ebay.com/Thomas-Sestak-Collector-Car-Parts


Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Nov/19/2007 at 12:51pm
I've got to ask him a question as the image makes it look like it states "will fit GM, AMC which means it's probably a GM lock. That's what I want to avoid.
I want a genuine AMC, even if used.............
I'll write him and clarify.
 
Confirmed - the same thing I'd buy locally, GM locks taking a GM style key.
Thanks, but I'll look for an AMC lock cylinder. Gotta be someone scrapping an Eagle or Spirit.......


-------------


http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com

http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com


Posted By: XJ-001
Date Posted: Nov/19/2007 at 2:31pm
Originally posted by tufcj tufcj wrote:

It's worn out, probably best to just replace it.  My Jeep does the same thing, so I installed a hidden ignition cut-out switch.

The procedure is nearly the same for all Saginaw columns.

1. remove steering wheel and lock plate
    you need a compressor tool to remove the lock plate.
    you may need to loosen and lift the directional assembly to see under it.

2. with the key in the "on" position, you push a tab at the back end of the  lock barrel, it will slide out.

Bob
tufcj


Step 1 is correct, except you will need to pull the turn signal switch far enough out to access the push tab or retaining screw. In the early 80's they changed the lock cylinder retainer to a Torx screw instead of the push-in tab. I believe that if the dimmer switch control is in the column, then it will have the Torx screw. We just replace the lock cylinder in the 83 J-10 and it had the turn lever dimmer control and the Torx screw retainer.

Tom


-------------
1970 AMX 390 4spd

1970 Javelin 390 Auto (Project)

2002 Grand Cherokee Overland Edition

2002 Olds Intrigue (The Other Orphan)

Bloomington, MN


Posted By: kirkwood
Date Posted: Nov/19/2007 at 11:18pm
AFAIK the tumblers are the same between the two. The 'guide' for the key is different. I have had cylinders re-keyed by my local lock smith a few times. Last time I took an NOS cylinder in and had him change it to match the door locks on the AMX. I think it cost about $5!

-------------
AMO Newsletter Editor


Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Nov/20/2007 at 12:00am
Bottom line, I need to find a new or good used AMC ignition lock cylinder.
 
As many of these get scrapped, junked, parted, etc. There should be plenty - they aren't the most high-demand items out there.
 
If I take in my door locks, a GOOD used ign cylinder and my NOS key blanks, they should be able to get me set up.


-------------


http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com

http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com


Posted By: kirkwood
Date Posted: Nov/20/2007 at 12:28am
I just took the key and they made it from that.

Used lock cylinders should be no problem. I'll throw one in the box if I can find one. NOS ones are tougher to find and usually go a little higher. Heck, I'm down to my last two LOL



-------------
AMO Newsletter Editor


Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Nov/20/2007 at 12:41am
I have no clue what the one for the wagon is like.
However, both cars, no, all three cars, came with only ONE key, so if something happens, I'm, well, you know.......
The door locks on the Eagles work ok, aren't very worn.
I've got NOS key blanks and I'll take the stuff in and have them rebuild the locks and use my keys and have them all proper and like new.
This darned little SX/4 is so fun, and Barbara even likes it.
Today she said "you need to go ahead and get xx, ww, yy, dd and a transmission and get this fixed up and we'll drive it from now on".
NOS cylinder would be good, but I think a locksmith could replace the worn parts and with my new blanks, I'd have good locks again.
I've got to pull the wheel anyway to deal with the funky turn signal switch. I assume those are available still. see them on ebait now and then.
I've got all the tools - including the lock plate push tool.
(I now need a left door handle, and both inners as the springs are broken and they just flop around)
 


-------------


http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com

http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com


Posted By: IowaEagle
Date Posted: Nov/20/2007 at 5:39am
The TS switch is GM (IIRC) so your parts store should be a good place to get one.


Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Nov/20/2007 at 5:48am
Since the switch itself is ok, I'm going to try just the cam - and if I get inside and find otherwise, well............ that's what I'll do.
The cam is cheaper if that's all it is.
I'd prefer avoiding the wiring under the dash on a car with the "tray".
Those are nice, but a pain in the posterior when doing work under the dash.


-------------


http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com

http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com


Posted By: prostreetamx
Date Posted: Nov/21/2007 at 12:09pm
I recently purchased off Ebay a set of lock cylinders for my 78 AMX. The originals were all wore out. I got a NOS set including AMC cylinders for the column, both doors and 2 keyed alike keys which fit all the cylinders. The set of 3 locks only cost me $80. My hatch still uses the old key, but I might change it to match my new AMC key later if I don't switch it to electric. I feel much better with new over mismatched used and the $80 was worth the time saved searching for a matched set.

-------------
Richard Payne

Las Vegas,NV

72 5.7 Hemi Javelin

77 Prostreet 401/727 AMX,

[/URL]



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net