Rear Axles

Hot Rodder wrote: Hello out there. Is Moser still the go to company for a Dana 20 one piece axle conversion? There are lots of kits ready to go for Jeep CJ's, but nothing for the cars. Do you have 1 piece axles? If so, what are you running? Cheers.

Yes Moser axles in my drag car and if I ever have issues with the street car it will get Moser's also.

As for the Jeep axles the wheel bolt pattern is a 5 on 5 and think too short for our cars.

Call Moser to see what it runs now and how to send in your axles took about a week turn around.
Dave ----

Ok thanks.

401harry wrote: I have Mosers in my Matador. Definitely an upgrade but still stuck with the 20's inherent weakness's. Ive got almost 3 grand in this diff and its still the same clunky axle with weak drums and I'm now officially done with the 20. I cant even find anyone locally that will even touch that 20 anymore due to the setup trouble and I only kept it because of the 4 link housing setup in Matador. Trust me I'm dumping this axle and getting a Dana 60 when I upgrade the motor. My spirit has a Granada 9 and if you have a leaf spring car and plan on hammering the rear occasionally save yourself headaches and just spend the cash on a bulletproof 9 or 60 and be done with it. Hoping this doesn't turn into another thread on the virtues of the 20.

So let me get this right you installed Moser axles replacing the weak link AMC axles and you say the 8 -7/8" AMC 20 is still weak?
Please tell me how it is still weak?

You know you can replace the drums with disc right? And just because the drums are small does not make it weak it was the 2 piece axles that made it weak.

As for gear setup it is no worst than doing a GM 10 bolt.
Dave ----

... a lot of same comments could apply to the engine ... why bother spending money on an AMC V8 when you could drop in an LS that makes more power more efficiently for less money, readily available aluminum blocks and heads for lower weight, more shops are happy to build them and can easily be upgraded or replaced if it blows up.

Guys get out their torches and pitchforks when someone dares drop in another engine, but few bat an eye at the diff. Seems there's little love for the AMC20?   If they ran 'em in TransAm, albeit with upgraded tubes, a cooler and a full-floating conversion with discs, the guts can't be too "weak". My understanding is they had more engine than differential issues, so which is the weaker link?

... so there are options to upgrade the '20 ... just depends where you want to spend your money? If you aren't confident in working on it or don't have a competent local shop to do the job, then sure, fit something else and keep the car on the road. Same logic applies to other parts.

Fuzz,

The Matador has a lot of mods. The 401 is stout (400hp?) but fairly mild (torque) but I have a built 727 with a TCI converter and Cheetah valve body. Combine that with 3.54s a heavy car and the 20 is taking a beating when I hammer it which is often although I don't race the car presently. I had the housing reinforced as well and the unit has very nice pieces in it including huge(but heavy) station wagon brake drums plus edelbrock control arms. As I said my choices were limited due to the 4 link and the lack of a drop in replacement using the stock suspension mounts so I beefed it as much as I could but it always clunks at low speeds with the hard shifts and I know it will get worse when I put the new 401 in it and it hooks. That, small bearings and lack of decent brake options seals it for me. I will say the 20 never let me down in the small cars I ran. I like the way it looks too if that matters....almost as cool as a 60