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Stock 360 output

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WesternRed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/08/2017 at 10:14am
Probably another good thing to verify.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tached_out Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 2:07am
I can tell you right now your lack of spark advance is killing HP at the starting line and all the way down the track. 

Your distributor should go to full advance (around 38 degrees) and stay there as soon as the engine starts. 

I ran a 360 powered 3,000 pound (with driver) Gremlin for several years. My combo wasn't that much different to your's. I got a best of 11.36 @ 120 mph. 60' times were 1.5 seconds.

I ran a single point distributor with Accell racing points and an Accell Super Coil. Here's what I did to the distributor. I removed the vacuum advance unit and locked the plate in place with a small bolt and nut. You can accomplish the same thing by simply disconnecting it and leaving it in place. I made myself a set of super weak advance springs from a ballpoint pen. The springs were just strong enough to hold the weights in while the engine was stopped and while it was cranking. As soon as it fired, The weights went to full advance. 36 degrees worked best for me. Don't worry what you have at idle, just concern yourself with the total which you can observe with a light as soon as it's running.

You should see mid 12s @ 110 mph once you get this thing working.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RUMBLR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 6:31pm
Yes put more advance in it - timing makes so much of a difference.
The vacuum advance wont make any difference going down the strip.
I was running 18 initial and 18 mechanical total 36 - but easy to adjust with the MSD dizzy.
343 904 M20 - 11.83@115
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 6:55pm
Haven't kept up ip on the thread, and just noticed your link on the new post you made.

Stock spring are good up to 4500 RPM and start to float. Discovered after dropping a valve in my 304 back in 90. The stock high compression 70 390 heads had just as weak springs.

Obtain a better spring to keep your usable torque curve stable up to 6000 RPM. I assume no more than 40 lbs over stock spring rate.



71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2017 at 2:14am
Looks like timing needs some more work, wish I had thought to play with that at the strip last week, I had the timing light with me.

I certainly wasn’t looking to rev it past 5K as I, but managed to shift a bit late a couple of times to discover the limits of the valve springs.

What was done to yours for those sort of times teached-out?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70amcpwr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2017 at 9:21am
Timing is #1. Make sure fuel octane is good enough for the advanced timing though, 38* is best, I've run into the 40's w/my 70Javelins slightly modified 360 but detonation becomes an issue.


Didn't catch if the 600 was Edelbrock or Holley. Assuming Holley, your accelerator pump adjusters spring controls the length of time the fuel continues to squirt, the wider the coils on the spring the longer the time of the squirt. just make sure there's 0 play between the screw head and arm, sometimes bending the linkage is needed to accomplish this. You should be able to make the secondaries fully open by removing the air cleaner, w/motor running manually give the carb wide open throttle while covering the primaries w/your hand @ the same time, that's true for Edelbrock also.




After messing w/the running adjustments I'd go back to the smaller tires myself and just watch your RPM's. I question the 4.11 combination w/the big tires and the gearing in the 727. Even though it sounds like the gearing justifies the tire size without the torque it's not getting the tires rolling fast enough.

There's a lot more qualified members than me @ this but logic tells me all stock gearing w/stock tires gave you a 1:1 ratio, 100mph @ 5000 rpms, you should easily be able to accomplish that in a 1/4 mile with the modifications you're making.

Good luck and have fun!
70amcpwr You just can't fix stupid.
SOLD 1970 BBO Javelin, wifes 73 AMX 360 4spd. Next project 1969 AMX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2017 at 8:06pm
I’m thinking there would be a lot to gain by putting a decent converter in it to make better use of the slicks. 26” is a pretty small diameter as far as slicks go, but 10” is definitely way overkill for this car, looks good though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PROSTOCKTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2017 at 9:21pm
Have you looked at your brakes, hub bearings, axle bearings? I had a friend that had a couple tight bearings and the car picked up a bunch once that was corrected. Easy enough to jack up the car and check.

Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70amcpwr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2017 at 9:56pm
Originally posted by WesternRed WesternRed wrote:

I’m thinking there would be a lot to gain by putting a decent converter in it to make better use of the slicks. 26” is a pretty small diameter as far as slicks go, but 10” is definitely way overkill for this car, looks good though.

I hadn't checked the conversion, your right it's only .7" larger diameter than 225/60 14. Still believe though it's effecting your time off the line. My Javelin hooked up well w/225/60 14 T/A's (obviously not drag tires just talking size), just the right amount of spin if you wanted and would hit second (Borg Warner M11) real hard, would do more than chirp the tires, never ran any times though.
70amcpwr You just can't fix stupid.
SOLD 1970 BBO Javelin, wifes 73 AMX 360 4spd. Next project 1969 AMX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tached_out Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/11/2017 at 6:43pm
Originally posted by WesternRed WesternRed wrote:


Looks like timing needs some more work, wish I had thought to play with that at the strip last week, I had the timing light with me.

I certainly wasn’t looking to rev it past 5K as I, but managed to shift a bit late a couple of times to discover the limits of the valve springs.

What was done to yours for those sort of times teached-out?

All my times were from Mission Raceway Park in British Columbia. 200' elevation.

I ran a 360 from a `72 Wagoneer. 

-343 cast pistons.
-Stock rods with ARP bolts.
-Stock heads with 3 angle valve job, mild bowl cleanup, port match and Crane 99839 single springs.
-Comp 280H cam.
-Torker intake.
-Carter 625 emissions calibrated carburetor.
-Hooker headers.
-Single point distributer with Accell HD points and Super Coil.
-904 Torqueflite with 10'' converter.
-Mopar 8 3/4'' rear with 3.91 gears.
-MT 26x8.5 E/T Drags.
-Lakewood drag shocks on front.
-Car was 3,000 pounds with me in it. This varied by a couple of pounds depending on coffee intake.

I would stage the car in drive and at an idle, then whack the gas on the second yellow. It typically ran an 11.60 in the morning right off the trailer. In the afternoon I'd run an 11.72 or so. I'd always dial 11.75 for eliminations and leave it for the rest of the day. I only remember changing it a couple of times. I always let the car auto shift in the burnout box and going down the track. It shifted into second at 4,800 rpm and into third at 5,000. Kind of a boring ride with nothing else to do, but it was dead nuts consistent.

One cool October morning it ran a 11.53 then an 11.50 an hour later. I didn't have a weather station but the word was the air was exceptionally good, like about 1,000' below sea level.

I decided to do something I had never done before because I was running the stock column shifter. I did my burnout as usual, but I staged in 1st and wound it out to about 5,800rpm and carefully bumped it up into 2nd. Then at 6,000rpm I bumped it into third. It liked it. That's the run I got 11.36 @ 120mph. The 1/8th mile numbers were 7.20 @ 97mph. Also the best numbers it ever ran.

I sold the car so I could move my family to a nice quiet seaside community. To this day I wonder what it would have run like with a bigger carb and a good shifter.

Sorry for the long winded answer. I was feeling nostalgic and couldn't stop typing.



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