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traction control for my 73 Javelin

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billd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: traction control for my 73 Javelin
    Posted: Jul/02/2018 at 8:25pm
These are for non-staggered shocks while my car has staggered shocks - so I guess I have to convert it to non-staggered. 
Look forward to removing the tops of the shocks as I KNOW there will be rusty bolts and nuts to deal with. These shocks have been on the car for years and the upper ends even look like rust.

But having replaced the springs a few weeks ago with used springs, the hardware for the springs should come out very easily.

At least the car should launch straight and not melt tires when punched.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/02/2018 at 10:54pm
Pretty nice looking set of CalTracs there Bill.  Wink

I hope that you will still have enough power to melt the tires.  LOL


73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomslik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/03/2018 at 6:45am
i'm assuming you have the aluminum bushings for the front of the springs?
67 american 290/4speed
73 hornet X 360/auto
72 hornet wagon 304/auto


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/03/2018 at 1:12pm
Yes but these can be used with stock or poly bushings, too.............
I plan on using stock bushings since the car is 99.9% street (and hasn't seen a real track to this point) but even if these were lacking the bushings, it's not hard to turn out any bushing needed when I have a lathe, etc.

(think about it, when you lift a car by the differential, you are supporting it by the spring bushings)

The only issue is that this is kit number 1010 for non-staggered shocks and my car has staggered shocks (which would use the 1020 if I have the NUMBERS correct on these. 
The difference is likely only the lower plates. The rest should be identical.
It's a like-new used set, and includes shocks, so I can pull the air shocks off and have a tad more clearance for those big exhaust pipes. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/03/2018 at 2:14pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

The only issue is that this is kit number 1010 for non-staggered shocks and my car has staggered shocks.
Staggered shocks were a cheap factory fix to reduce the axle wrap without traction bars, torque links, or slapper bars. With the CalTracs you really don't need to have staggered shocks any more. The mounting holes are in the uni-body in the non-staggered locations. The left side has an add on factory mount to put the left shock behind the axle. Just abandon the add on mount and run the shocks to the original factory non-staggered locations.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/03/2018 at 3:16pm
Billd, you actually don't want to rely on the staggered shock mounting plate. It can't take a lot of abuse. The floor is too weak, and the plate is too small, so punching through is a problem.

I would have mentioned cal-tracks earlier but, I was not sure you wanted to mess with frame mods. The sliding rear spring eye and extra holes at to allow for the bar to connect to the frame.

Your 100% right on never trying to out guess you... even when I know you want to be frugal and limit how much work is to be done, you out do yourself. Ha!

Yes, that will cure a lot of issues but, we'we'll see once your done and tested, how much of anything else needs to be done.

I never drove a late Javelin with the power you have, so I can imagine it's light feeling rear is almost uncontrollable with the power you have, and street tires.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/03/2018 at 4:41pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Billd, you actually don't want to rely on the staggered shock mounting plate. It can't take a lot of abuse. The floor is too weak, and the plate is too small, so punching through is a problem.

I would have mentioned cal-tracks earlier but, I was not sure you wanted to mess with frame mods. The sliding rear spring eye and extra holes at to allow for the bar to connect to the frame.

Your 100% right on never trying to out guess you... even when I know you want to be frugal and limit how much work is to be done, you out do yourself. Ha!

Yes, that will cure a lot of issues but, we'we'll see once your done and tested, how much of anything else needs to be done.

I never drove a late Javelin with the power you have, so I can imagine it's light feeling rear is almost uncontrollable with the power you have, and street tires.


What the xxxx? Frame mods?  There are no frame mods. 
There are no extra holes to connect to the frame.
These connect to the front spring eye area using existing location and have another bolt that goes over the top of the spring.
Do some geometry - this prevents spring wrap and keeps the springs even, helping to avoid that dog-track-like swing-out. They transfer weight using existing mounting points and holes. Piece of cake to install. 
- in fact it will take less time than swapping out springs. No drilling, no power tools needed. BOLT ON.

How would shock punching through be any issue with non-air shocks?
With or without these bars?
With or without them being staggered? There's no more risk on this car than my Eagle, my 70 or any other AMC here that's not using air-shocks (that's where the risk comes in)
How would there be any risk of "punching through"?
You are suggesting that the shocks on my other cars are at risk of "punching through"??
My 70, which has survived 40+ years with the factory staggered shocks, the 73 which has gone over four decades and 100,000 miles with staggered shocks is or has or will punch through?
LOL are you serious? You are suggesting that almost every Javelin and AMX with staggered shocks is at risk. Well, they are if the owner was silly enough to put on air shocks and "jack the car up" using air shocks. 

As far as shock stresses with the Cal-Tracs - 
These bars would actually reduce any stresses on the shocks as far as twisting from the housing wanting to wind up and unwind. But that is NOT what causes them to ram up through the floor.
Standard shocks do not stress that area beyond factory design.  
You may want to rethink through the shock comment.

............ and that brings up.........
Ken - yeah, I figured that since these things prevent spring wrap, hop, winding and unwinding of the axle housing, the staggered shocks were no longer "necessary".  And that's good. 
In my thinking, these bars should actually help reduce some of the shock and stress.  It's not good winding and unwinding and the forces that go with it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/03/2018 at 5:27pm
OK, maybe the cal-tracks I am thinking of are older design. The ones I looked at way back in the 90s had a bolt in setup similar to Tork links, and required the rear spring eye to use a slider shackle. Maybe the newer setups don't require that setup any more. Or those options are now separate add-ons if you will.

I have seen a few Javelins with the plate punched out, and have also read from members that the plate will fatigue the thin pan it is mounted to, causing it to rip out and leave a hole. It may not happen on a good romp here and there, but over time, it may happen. Just pointing out if your using some device to limit wheel hop and true up the axle, then a staggered shock setup has no benefit.

As for staggered shocks... I think with your setup it is not going to effect you leaving in place and modifying, or removing it for the cal-tracks.

Since your cal-tracks are simple bolt-ins, then never mind about my comments of frame mods.



Edited by 304-dude - Jul/03/2018 at 5:32pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 7172AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/11/2018 at 11:42pm
After removing traction bars on the last rear end re-do, my 71 jav can sorely use this setup too. Can you point me towards the best source please? 
thanks!
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72 JavSST 360 727 315TG driver/project
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/12/2018 at 6:59am
Yes the 68 through 70 shocks do punch through but this almost always happens when something else breaks also. Snap a U-joint, leaf spring or wrap the rear end. You really have to abuse a car on a regular basis to see this often.
The Cal-tracks would be an excellent choice tho mitigated any of the above and the likelihood of punching a shock through would be much less.
Hope to hear great things on the traction and rear end wander when this is done and dusted.
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