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which manual disc master cylinder?

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kelly1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kelly1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: which manual disc master cylinder?
    Posted: Jun/14/2012 at 8:36pm
Hey all,
 
After fitting up my 80 spirit disc setup on my 64 american, my stock 14" wheels do clear everything. I will know need to order a manual disc mastery cylinder. What vehicle application should I order it for so the brake lines exit on the RH (passenger) side of the master cylinder?
 
I think I remember reading somewhere that one for a '73 hornet w/manual disc should work. My local napa can't get one of these....zero in stock anywhere. 
 
I will have to travel to a different town to check with the other parts stores. Are there any other master cylinders that might work?
 
thanks.
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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2012 at 8:42pm
If you used 2.6" piston calipers keep the drum brake master. Just pull the residual pressure valve out of the front outlet. All 77+ small car calipers are 2.6", as are the Scarebird specified calipers. It should work fine with the 2.75" K-H calipers as well. 
Frank Swygert
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kelly1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kelly1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2012 at 10:42pm
Thanks Frank. I'll do that. I just replaced the m/c a couple years ago so I'm glad I can maintain it and not spend more $$. 
 
Question: (and forgive my ignorance as the car is out in the shop and it's storming right now) but if I'm removing the pressure valve from the front outlet, that means the front port is for the front brakes?
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ramblinfsj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinfsj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/15/2012 at 9:23am
I'd like to see pictures of you installing the Spirit brakes on the American. I'll be doing the exact same thing sometime this year. ('79 Spirit/AMX brakes on a '65 American).
1982 Jeep J-20
1965 Rambler American 220
1978 Jeep Cherokee w/401
1983 Jeep J-10
1979 Concord DL 2dr
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kelly1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kelly1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/15/2012 at 11:10am
No problem. It will be a couple weeks. I'm sending my hubs back to my hometown where my machinist buddy is so he can turn down the od of the rotor hub so it fits in my stock wheels. I won't be back home to get the hubs for 2-3 weeks. I'd have it done locally....but then I'd have to pay for it. lol
 
Otherwise, I did a quick fit up a couple days ago and it absolutely couldn't have been any easier. Simply remove your stock drums, hubs and spindle.  Bolt on the spirit caliper mounting bracket, spindle and rotor. Direct fit...no modifications needed. AMC knew what they were doing sticking with the same bolt pattern for so many years.
 
Will keep you posted with pics. Geez....now I'm gonna have to paint everything since everyone on the net will see it! lol
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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/16/2012 at 3:21pm
What I meant by "front outlet" was "the outlet for the front brake line". Most of the time this is the front most one on the MC, but there are exceptions. Easy enough to trace teh lines and see which one goes back under the car. The front line is also usually a bit larger than the one for the rear.
 
The pics will be nice, even if not painted! It's a relatively easy jobe, literally a bolt-on. The only thing to be concerned about are the speindle bolts and clearances. The bolts need to go "head out" instead of "nut out" as on the drums. If not, and the bolts aren't just the right length, the end will drag against the rotor. Some of the drum brake only cars need the calipers reversed -- mounted in the back instead of front (or is it vice-versa?). A banjo-bolt type hose is needed also. I've used 90 degree adapters in the past, but that's tricky. To reverse the mounting, swap the caliper mounts side to side. You just need the bleeders on the top, front or rear mount is irrelevant. The dust shield is swapped also, and may need trimming to fit around the steering arm if switched.
Frank Swygert
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kelly1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kelly1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/16/2012 at 10:24pm
Frank, thanks to you and everyone else that has helped out thus far. I did do a quick mock up of the disc setup and "Bolt-on" is an understatement. It was a breeze. I also agree with you and am switching the caliper mounts/dust shields so the caliper is mounted towards the rear of the vehicle on each side.
 
I will have more install pics later. For now, I am sending the rotors to a machinist buddy of mine to get the OD of the center hub turned down so my stock wheels will fit them. The wheel hub hole is roughly 0.080" smaller than the rotor hub. It will be a few weeks before I can get down to pick them up so I will keep everyone posted.
 
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kelly1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kelly1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2012 at 10:16pm
Okay, here's an update of the conversion to disc as discussed.
 
Frank, do you have a part # for the banjo bolts/hoses you used?
 
Here is what one would start with after removing their drum spindles and backing plates.
 
Here's the disc spindle, caliper mount and disc backing plate loosely held together with two bolts. Just slide them on to the trunnion mount in the same location the drum setup was removed from.
 
 
Installed
 
 
Watch the length of the disc hardware if you are resuing. The bolt with the nut installed in this pic was too long and hit the steering stop. I had to shorten it.
 
 
Install remaining mounting bolts and you're ready to slide on the rotor and caliper.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinfsj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/20/2012 at 10:32am
Wow, I'm having flashbacks of my front end rebuild. Your suspension and steering parts look great all cleaned up and painted. The brake swap looks easy enough. I guess I'm going to have to start removing parts from my Spirit for my American. Please post what brake hoses you get.
Have you done anything with the master cylinder yet?
1982 Jeep J-20
1965 Rambler American 220
1978 Jeep Cherokee w/401
1983 Jeep J-10
1979 Concord DL 2dr
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kelly1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kelly1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/20/2012 at 11:52am
Still working on brake hoses. From what I've read and seen on the fitup on my car, it is best to convert over to a banjo bolt and custom hose. The custom hoses don't cost much more than a stock replacement. Summit has everything I need, I just haven't ordered it yet.
 
If someone knows of a factory type banjo brake hose that will work, I'm all ears.
 
Farna has told me I can get away with using my stock drum master cylinder as long as I remove the residual pressure valve in the port going to the front brakes. The drum and disc m/c use the same bore piston. I'm going to give that a shot as I just replaced the m/c a few years ago. I figure I might have to install an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
 
Once I source the banjo bolt and brakes hoses, I'll post the info here.
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