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Rebuilding a T5 |
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uncljohn
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/03/2013 Location: Peoria AZ Status: Offline Points: 5394 |
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Mine is an 87 or 88 simply because that is what was available when I bought the thing. It is installed as purchased for two reasons, in 92 or what ever year it was there very few if any updates then that are available now. And when it comes down to it at the time I simply did not have the extra cash to spend on them. And as it turned out, I really did not need them either.
I run p-205-70-14's because that is what I want on the car. I really did not care what the Mustang boys were running and I chose the 3.15:1 rear axle because 1. it was available, 2. it had positraction and 3. it gave me gearing that ended up with 32mph/1000 rpm in 5th gear which was a good place to be and 1st gear worked with the cam I was running then and still am. The next tallest available gearing at the time was 2.83 and it would have not really dealt with 1st where I wanted it to and it was almost impossible to locate positraction for that ratio. As to cruising speed, it cruises nicely at 100mph with out beating itself to death or droning like a berzerk jet plane. The lubrication chosen was compatible with the transmission at the time and since that time I have had no particular reason to change it. As to any potential mods on that transmission it will largely depend on whether I break it or not. And as it has run well for me for 20 years breaking it probably will not happen unless I go out and do something stupid. If I do change that one I really do not want the 3.54:1 gears back in it. I don't like that ratio. My Merkur transmission I will deal with when I get to it, but before I do I have my Hornet to finish. The 700R4 w/O.D. is set up to work with a 2.73 rear axle and P235-35-19's which gear it a bit tall, bout 38 or 39 mph / 1000 rpm but it has one extra gear plus a 2200 rpm stall torque lock up converter which will let it work well as a freeway flyer. Low comes out real well with that combination. I am far more concerned with where low comes out than I am the final combination in O.D. A 1/2 change in gearing will increase the torque capability adequately to work with what ever engine I have that I can bolt up to either one of them. |
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70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Well done, well said. |
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uncljohn
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/03/2013 Location: Peoria AZ Status: Offline Points: 5394 |
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And I
Have the transmission as removed from the car it was originally installed in 20 some odd years ago using the lubricant suggested at the time by those using the transmission for racing as the only modification made to it. AND after 20 some odd years and untold thousands of miles later am still using the same lubricant with no problems. So while modifying may have made it fussier to the lubricant used, the original configuration worked quite well over time and I have no reason what so ever to question the success using the lubricant recommended at the time. I would though raise a valid concern over the need to make changes to the transmission based on a supposed requirement of a newer and different lubrication. If it ain't broke? Why bother fixing it? Edited by uncljohn - Aug/15/2013 at 4:47pm |
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70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
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FuzzFace2
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/05/2007 Location: Angier, N.C. Status: Offline Points: 10343 |
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I got my WC T5 even cheaper than yours – free! When it was placed at my door did not know it was here for 3 days. I was told it was pulled out because the guy missed a gear when racing and blew it up, it was also part way pulled apart. I did not find anything broken but stuff was worn out. By the time I bought everything needed and some hop up parts it was $1000. I could have bought one from Summit with a warranty for a few dollars more but then I could not say I rebuilt it could I? Add in the posi stop shifter and I called it done. Guess it was not that cheap after all! Mine is the 2.95 first and it is the stronger of the ones I have seen on the web. With the hoped 3.54 rear gear I think will work out fine in my 70 Javelin. I got all my all my parts from http://www.thegearbox.org/T5.html WC Master kit, 2.95 gear kit and all hop ups. The papers with the kit said to soak parts in ATF so that is what I filled it with. Dave ----
FYI this was the first trany rebuild and being it was apart to start with I just hope when on th eroad it works. It did shift thru the gears in the air.
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TSM = Technical Service Manual
75 Gremlin X v8 for sale 70 Javelin 360/auto drag car 70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car |
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kingsX
AMC Nut Joined: Jan/20/2011 Location: Holland, MI Status: Offline Points: 343 |
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Thanks for the link Fuzz!! So far mines only cost me $300. I think i may just check the shift forks first before dropping the $1000 on all the parts.
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73 AMX Javelin PC
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FuzzFace2
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/05/2007 Location: Angier, N.C. Status: Offline Points: 10343 |
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At the end of the shift forks are plastic pads they too could be broken / missing? I replaced mine with the bronze ones. Also the 1/2 & 2/3 keys to replace the stamped steel ones.
Same with billet cluster support plate, replaces the stock stamped steel plate for added strength for the 5th gear. I was told high HP/FT motors when in 5th will push the cluster and bend the steel retainer. Gears dont line up and bang! no more trany.
Dave ----
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TSM = Technical Service Manual
75 Gremlin X v8 for sale 70 Javelin 360/auto drag car 70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car |
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jeremy0711
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/12/2008 Location: Southern IN Status: Offline Points: 1547 |
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I wouldn't get too caught up into the rumors on what a t5 WC will handle and what it won't. Especially, if you are just trying to see if it will shift correctly or not. If you have bent shifting rods in the upper cover and that is all there is then you might be happy with the tranny as is which in turn saved you a ton of money. A lot of people have broken the trannies due to throwing in a worn out tranny and driving the crap out of it. I have seen a lot of shops and so forth put in a t5 with a ton of slop on the input shaft. That can be fixed with a $7 bearing and maybe a shim or two. The very least that you can do is check the shifting rods, take any excess play out of the input shaft, and install a positive stop shifter. A rebuild kit is just bearings and syncros. If it doesn't grind when shifting and there isn't any noticeable vibrations and so forth then you are probably just fine as a good used one.
I have sidepipes so my exhaust isn't in the way. If the car was in the air then I could dump that tranny in literally 15 minutes. Uncljohn....What camshaft and compression are you running? I am running a CC 274xe on atleast 10.5. Just about every person on this site has a different build of an engine and I am sure not one runs the same here and there. My car doesn't like to cruise much lower then 1800. I can play with the EFI some but I think we have it about as well as it's gonna get since it was running like that with a carb too. Cruising at too low of an RPM can kill you MPGs. |
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FuzzFace2
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/05/2007 Location: Angier, N.C. Status: Offline Points: 10343 |
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Jeremy, You say rods but I dont think it is the steel rods that bend but the alum. shift forks that bend. I could be wrong too.
Dave ----
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TSM = Technical Service Manual
75 Gremlin X v8 for sale 70 Javelin 360/auto drag car 70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car |
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