Is my rear main leaking or no ?

Oil pan is dry..  intake on top is wet from crusty old oil and a coolant leak on the bolt but thats it.  When i pulled the inspection plate off.  Its dry behind.. but the plate up front is wet.  Its wet from the top little 2 inch lip that slides inside up against the bearing cap all the way down in a stream. 

But the crank where the flexplate meets itself is dry bellhousing imside isnt soaked either..  Is it still the rear main but that inspection plate lip that slides inside is blocking it ?  Snd it runs down outside..   or is this leak from the oil pan perhaps ?  But if its the pan wouldnt it be wet where the pan meets the cap.  It doesnt seem like it is but i dunno.

Im getting tired if taking this apart.. lushing out seals.. pushing in seals.  I sware i almost feel like taking a socket extention on the oil pan lip and smacking it with a hammer to smash the oil pan on the lip tighter.

But i dunno.. is it the rear main ??  

Is it was.. wouldnt the crank/flexolate connection be wet with oil... why is the inspection plate lip l/front wet instead.  And no it isnt the valve covers either.. i redid those and my camera shows it dry

Anyway..i revved the engine for 15 min at 2500 rpm and then shut it iff and boom leak.. but the rear main where the crank/flexplate is again dry as a bone.

The leak came from the plate where the starter is bolted too..  I stuck my bore scope in there.  No oil.  But where that plate meets is the oil pan lip.  Its wet there.  So F IT..  i took a hammer and long screw driver with a flat tip not pointed tip so i dont pike the oil pan.  And i bashed the crap out if the lip on the pan where it meets the bearing cap.

Wiped it all down.. ran the engine for 10 min. And revved it to 2000-3000 rpm and shut it off.. and its dry now ?   But im testing it again idling it lingee and then ima rev it for 5-10 min like i did before.

Maybe its the stupid oil pan leaking ??  First time.  I di specifically remember it leaking worse after i did the rear main.. 2nd time (recently)  it slowed it down but still leaks badly..   I wonder if this oil pan isnt sealing right on the lip there.   First time i used the cork/rubber gasket set.

This 2nd time around i blobbed a thick layer of rtv there. And around the entire pan.  No cork.  I wonder if the rtv needed to be thicker and thats why it could ( could) be leaking from the pan ?  But why would it leak with the rubber as well...

Well see after this last idle/rev test.  If it still leaks.. i dunno what to do then..  the rear main is dry the crank is dry the flex plate is dry.. so it couldnt possibly be the rear main could it ???

I wish my bore scope could fit in there to check that cam shaft nut...   maybe if i remove the starter i can get the scope up in there from there.

I dunno... crossing my fingers.. i hope me bashing the oil pan lip did it..

Yea i know i dented my pan... but i dont care.  Ive done this to a leaking 4.0 gasket up front and it stopped the leak.  400k miles now on that engine..

Edit: also again the crank/flex plate is dry..  litterally no oil at all where thr bearing cap U is on the crank.. So im perplexed if its this rear main

Just gonna keep refilling it with cheap rump wal mart oil i guess... Im not doing this rear main a 3rd time when i habe other things to fix i wanna bash my head on the wall

Question my pcv valve seems fine it rattles and is clean i put a tube long enough on the intake and breathed in and out.. no clogs there behind the carb

But i removed the factory air hat and put a edlebrock hat and cap on the fill tube.  I sware i remember like 5 years ago when i did that the oil loss got worse.

Could there be too much pressure in the engine?  I heard thr pcv doesnt work with high rpms.  So if my oil fill cap has no air hat to suck air out of it could there be a build up of pressure inside the engine.   ?  

I did rtv this 2nd time around becsuse i wanted to be sire it wasnt a oil pan leak from cork.  Well it clearly isnt that.   The pics i took inside the bellhousing of the flexopate showing a line of oil going up the entire bellhousing inside.  So its flinging oil.  Nothing wrong with rtv on the oil pan besides it being hard to get off .. Clearly it isnt leaking from the pan now that i looked deeper inside.. 

What problems does it cause exactly if done right.  ?  Wheb i first did my rear main 6 years ago the cork was hard as a rock and 70% of the pickup tube was blocked by cork.  So cork can also do what people say rtv does.  Also i made sure it was flat.. ive been working on cars for 20 years im not fully dumb at this lol..  this isnt the first rear main ive done either.. but this amc 360 is a royal pita.. the 360 magnum and 4.0 and 318s ive done never had this issue

Also fyi cork leaks with synthetic oil.  And there is no other gasket but cork with these amc engines.

 

Ill try the seal a 3rd time.. ( ill use SCE not fel pro) i heared SCE is better.  Before i do this do you think adding another breather to the valve covers.  Or a breather line from the oil tube to the air hat.  Would possibly help with any possible pressure im seeing in the engine ?  

 Im almost curious to try this... Cut a hole in the top of the edlebrock air hat and thread a 90 degree angle barbed fitted on it and put a tubed cap back on the oil filler neck.  Or something like this.  Im seriously wondering if this is the issue.   Every engine has this.  And i removed it by just putting a cap on it but no vacuum line