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Hurst390 
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Joined: Apr/20/2008 Location: secret Status: Offline Points: 5818 |
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 Posted: May/14/2023 at 6:55am |
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Good progress. One thing I would comment on is your cam phasing. Its not a chevy. I would install the cam around 106
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SC/Hurst Rambler
11.62 120 100% Street Legal |
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LetsFNgo
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Posted: May/14/2023 at 9:33am |
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Genuinely curious, could you explain why? When we did it he wanted to be around 100 because when the chain stretches it’ll end up closer to 102.
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Hurst390
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Posted: May/15/2023 at 8:36am |
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Just my experience at the track. If all your going to do is drive it around town it doesn't really matter anyway.
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SC/Hurst Rambler
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LetsFNgo
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Posted: May/17/2023 at 11:26am |
It’s funny, in your original response you guessed 106, after checking the cam card and talking to a couple of guys I work with who race semi-professionally in nhra, you’re right. 106 is what Lunati calls for. So when I assemble it one of my co workers is going to bring over his degree wheel and parts and we’re going to install it at 106 and double check piston to valve when complete. Got a call from the machine shop, everything is done, just need to go pick it up soon.
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Hurst390
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Posted: May/18/2023 at 7:28am |
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Like I said originally. Its not a chevy. I rebuild a few circle track chevies and always go between 100-102. Amc I usually go 106-108 on my stuff.
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SC/Hurst Rambler
11.62 120 100% Street Legal |
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Hurst390
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Posted: May/19/2023 at 8:25am |
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Since your going to re-degree the cam you might want to pull it out and double check it. Look at the center cam journal. You will notice it is narrower than the other journals. Look at the HEAL of the lobes on each side of that center journal. Take a lifter if you have to and see if Lunati cleaned up the core at the base of those 2 lobes. Meaning the material they removed from the center journal is LOWER than the heal of those 2 lobes.
This has been overlooked by several cam companies including Lunati. It usually only an issue on a big flat tappet cam. I use to have pictures of the problem but do not anymore. Its well worth the time to look because if it is not right it will destroy those 2 lifters. I bought a big Lunati flat tappet 20 years ago and it was not correct. I sent it back. I also had a comp 300b cam the same way. By then I had my lathe so I fixed it myself.
Edited by Hurst390 - May/19/2023 at 8:29am |
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LetsFNgo
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Posted: May/19/2023 at 10:31am |
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I checked that already and made sure Lunati made the cam correctly, which to their credit, they did. I can see how it could get screwed up though because the base circle is very low. Thank you very much for the thorough explanation of what was happening with the camshafts. I’m going to post pictures once I pick everything up from the machine shop this weekend or early next week. Today I’m cleaning all of the old engine hardware to begin prepping for assembly.
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LetsFNgo
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Posted: May/19/2023 at 7:26pm |
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So this will probably be 2 or 3 posts of pictures. I picked up the engine today. I’m mostly pleased with everything from the machine shop. For some reason he didn’t install any freeze out plugs and when I said something he said he’d order a kit I can pick up next week and I’ll just put them in myself. I don’t really mind but I was a little annoyed. He also lost or threw away all of the oil galley plugs, so I’m going to take them all out of my junk 343 block so I can reuse them. He’s an older guy and gave me a good deal and does nice work, but this isn’t the first time he’s basically left stuff undone for me to finish.
 Picking up everything in my little Vw golf diesel. He left the crank and cam in to make it easier for loading it.  The hood makes a good table.  Block on the stand before I stripped it back down.  Here’s the piston and rod combo I’m using. On paper it’s a 455 Pontiac piston.  Intake valve relief had to be opened up slightly to piston to valve clearance.
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LetsFNgo
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Posted: May/19/2023 at 7:35pm |
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Here’s a couple pictures of the heads
 You can see the guideplates, studs, and Chevy valves here. Also the chambers are opened up to unshroud the valves.  Also went through my extra an stuff and found a piece of hose perfect for the valley line.  Ran out of time but I started running a tap through every hole in the block as well and cleaning and prepping some things. Also for Hurst390, tell me if this cam looks ok. I don’t see an issue but you’d know better than me.   Also here’s a picture of the modified connecting rods. By running the rod bearings upside down they don’t have to be cut for clearance.   Hopefully I have some time coming up to prep some parts. I had a little time on break at work today and cleaned all the engine hardware. Most of it is factory hardware and I plan to use that.
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Hurst390
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Posted: May/20/2023 at 7:16am |
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It looks ok. Close for sure. Hold a lifter on the heal and see if there is a gap between the lifter and that little step.
Another thing I noticed is he used flat chevy guide plates and milled the head over the heat riser port. There is water around that and is probably paper thin there now. I found this out the hard way with a local machinist. I'll add that it looks like he may not have milled the stud bosses down to allow for the guideplate. I say that because he (I assume)didnt produce a hole when he milled above the heat riser. If thats the case then your stud is too high and you rocker geometry is going to be out. Find an old head gasket and mock it up. I recommend the correct amc guide plates that are curved and have a hole in the middle to remove the head bolt.
Edited by Hurst390 - May/20/2023 at 7:21am |
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Hurst390 wrote: