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Paint advice needed, to duplicate original paint ? |
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XRX744 
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Joined: Nov/15/2010 Location: Northern Nevada Status: Offline Points: 338 |
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 Topic: Paint advice needed, to duplicate original paint ?Posted: May/22/2023 at 8:26pm |
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I'm looking for advice on how to duplicate the original paint look on my AMX. 3/4 of it is original Matador Red, that's still good but thin and a bit dulled. The dulled look I know how to do, its the paint I'm not sure of. What is the best paint to use as I'm looking to match it more than repaint it all glossy and new. Single stage enamel? What did the use originally? I know the shop will need to blend/match the color to what I have now, I can take an endcap in for them to match. Just looking for some advice before going into the paint supply shop.
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69 AMX, pro touring /track car, TEAM tribute, aka: "The Kenosha Corncob"
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sweatlock
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Joined: Apr/28/2014 Location: Largo, FL Status: Offline Points: 3313 |
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Posted: May/22/2023 at 9:16pm |
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The door tag on my ‘69 says ‘lustre-gard baked acrylic enamel’
The paint code on mine is P75A, with the ‘A’ standing for acrylic enamel
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pacerman
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Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9057 |
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Posted: May/28/2023 at 4:05pm |
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You can still get single stage acrylic enamel and as a hobbyist that is mostly what I use even here in California because my air pollution district still permits use of it. I think the secret of a smooth acrylic enamel finish is to buy good quality paint and paint with the finest spray gun tip listed on the technical data sheet and mix the paint with extra reducer at least in the final coat. Make sure the substrate (whatever primer you use) is sanded with at least 400 grit abrasive and spray the final coat wet, but just not wet enough to cause runs. It might take practice. but the factory sprayed it wet and baked it right very soon after. Joe
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Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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tyrodtom
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Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 6213 |
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Posted: May/29/2023 at 3:56pm |
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If it's got 54 years of aging, and straight reds tend to fade a little more than average, even blended it's going to be hard to match.
A sample chip of the original paint is probably going to be far off from what you've got now. Go to a paint supply that has a paint scanner. Take you car if it's drivable, or a detachable part with good intact paint. They can scan it to find the closest match possible to what paint you have now after years of sun fading. Your car has single stage acrylic enamel paint on it from the factory. I've been painting 50 years now, I've yet to discover a perfect way to blend single stage,( I mean no metallic, paint). The blend area will always have a different effect, if you leave it alone, it will look dry. If you buff the blend area later, it will have more shine that the rest, plus you risk going thru the very thin surface of the blended paint. I've tried clear coating the blended area with vey thin clear. I tried several different combinations, and never was satisfied with what I got. They use to make paint retarders, that slowed down the drying of the paint in the blended area, allowed it to adhere better, but those was hard to control on verticle surfaces, like small runs, or it would darken the color. And good luck on finding those in a paint store now. The only method I had any lasting success with is breaking the paint on a body crease, rolling the masking tape, or using DART tape to stop the paint on the edge. It leaves a soft paint edge that cannot be seen, or felt. If someone brought a car with 50 year old paint, and expected me to just paint it partially, and expect a match. In most cases, I'd not take it in.
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66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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tyrodtom
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Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 6213 |
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Posted: May/29/2023 at 4:03pm |
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Right now someone's wanting me to partly paint a 70 Dodge Dart, quarter panel.
The gas door depression wasn't well prepped before it was painted about 10 years ago. Gas got under the paint at the gas filler and lifted the paint. It's a dark green metallic, acrylic enamel, or maybe urethane. I'll try it because it has some creases that I can break the paint edge on, and it's a metallic.
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66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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Steve_P
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Charter Member Joined: Jun/28/2007 Status: Offline Points: 3805 |
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Posted: May/29/2023 at 4:04pm |
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It is single stage acrylic enamel. But 54 years later it's not going to match. Get over it and paint the entire car, or deal with a gross mismatch.
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