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Piston Rings

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Andrejs Jansons View Drop Down
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    Posted: May/11/2023 at 12:48pm
Good afternoon!
I am quite new to the engine rebuilding world, and I am having some trouble selecting piston rings. I am only replacing them to fix a compression issue that I am having and am not doing a full rebuild. 

My question is this: Why is there more than one option for the inline six ring size? I am currently looking at Summit Racing and they offer three ring sizes with the application of 1965 232, which should I select? 

I appreciate any and all advice! This is my first post but I am a longtime user of the AMC forum advice.Smile
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nickleone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickleone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/11/2023 at 1:02pm
You need to know the cylinder size.
The ring sets listed are .060/.040/.020 over size from STOCK

Nick


Edited by nickleone - May/11/2023 at 1:11pm
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Andrejs Jansons View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrejs Jansons Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/11/2023 at 1:10pm
Okay! Thank you, I already have a feeler gauge and I'll have to loan a bore gauge from someone. 
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nickleone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickleone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/11/2023 at 1:13pm
I double checked the ring thickness seems to be the same on all the ring sets.  Double check your pistons
ring land to see if the ones listed are what you need.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/11/2023 at 1:36pm
The rings need to match the pistons used i.e. bore size and ringland width. If the piston is oversize, it is usually stamped on the top. If there is a logo & part number on the top of the piston and you can (maybe) get the ringland spec's from sales literature. Otherwise, you will need to measure them.

Keep in mind, if you change the rings, you will want to hone the cylinders. Another point to ponder: if the rings are to the point of leaking, are the bores still square?
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Andrejs Jansons View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrejs Jansons Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/11/2023 at 1:52pm
The honing tool has already been ordered, I am yet to do an official compression test but it is obvious that one or more cylinders have nearly none (causing really poor running.) I'm hoping that it isn't a valve train issue as I have less knowledge of that area of the car. 

As far as the bores being square, I'm not sure. One of the early problems I had with the car was the thermostat sticking and causing it to get too hot (not the the point of disaster, but still) That weekend it was driven the most it had been in 40 years and I'm hoping the heat just damaged the dormant rings. The block only has 83,000 miles on it if that helps give you some idea of the condition of the bores. 

Thanks for lending an ear!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2023 at 4:11am
I mean, you can ridge ream, ball hone, and re-ring anything. Depends how well you want it to run and how long you want it to last.

My usual test is to feel for a wear ridge at the top of the cylinders. If you cannot feel a ridge, then you might have a candidate for an easy re-ring job. Measure all your clearances more precisely to be sure. 

I have a 258 that I rebuilt at 167,000 miles. It had no appreciable wear ridge, taper, or oval. The pistons still fit in their bores within OE tolerance. I ran a ridge reamer through it just to be safe, ball honed the cylinders, cleaned the pistons, and re-ringed it. It's headed north of 183,000 now and it happy as a clam.

Ridge means rebore if you want it to last. 

I like moly-filled top rings. They are what AMC used originally. They seat fine, resist suffing, and wear better than plain old iron rings. 
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